layton

I'm looking for photos of the N.F. of davis peak. I can see most of it from the Hwy, but haven't been back there...yet.

when is the deadline?

No kidding. Scott Johnson (don't know him) has put a lot of work in to routes at WA pass. Everyone is being such an ethical purist when most of them don't do shit. I'm guessing RAT knows Scott, however. the rest are being weinies.

Those were of both of us on the 1st pitch. That was mark on pitch two of the 1st day's scouting. That was mark starting up the long, fun chimney. I have other photos but they really suck. Mark will post photos and a topo in due time. Hopefully the topo will be at the board of the Mazama Store.

They put the route up, I think, with the intention of Clients and newbies. If you are so hard core, why are you climbing this route anyway? STFU.

Mark Allen had to leave his ropes up on the E.F. of Burgundy Spire. They are very stuck and he had to go to work. Please do not booty. If you climb this route, maybe you could coil them and huck 'em. Sorry they are in the way, I hope they don't detract from the climb or the setting. PM me for Mark's phone # or email

The Akai does have kitchenettes, but is the bottom of barrell.

I am grateful to all those who put in the hours. This thing is classy!

Oh yeah, mark also dropped an ATC and a candy wrapped. I smoked a few at the shiver belay and dropped a few butts outta my pocket. I think I picked most of them up, but basically we littered the mountain with ropes, butts, wrappers, brushes, and belay devices. Leave no trace? Whoops.

Climb: Burgundy Spire-F.A. Action Potential. East Face Burgundy Spire Date of Climb: 7/19/2004 Trip Report: 7/18-7/20 2004. Mark Allen & Mike Layton. "Action Potential" 1st ascent of Burgundy Spire's East Face. Grade III, 5.10a-5.10c, 5-7pitches. Seagram's Five-Star. Action Potential: an electrical event along nerve; a wave of rapid depolarization, or a "firing" of a nerve impulse. Mark and I had both spotted the line on separate trips over a year ago. It sat heavy in the back of our minds until after a rather heft spay-down, we both mentioned the potential for a route on the maybe unclimbed east face of Burgandy Spire. Well the last three days we acted on it... Day 1: I knew we were off to a rough start. Mosquitoes tried to make roost in my ear hole as my 5am alarm went off. The taste of stale tobacco and cheap beer kept my mouth sealed from the agonizing groan, the realization that I had some work to do that day. Two and a half hours of sleep. We were going to pay for last night's debauchery. Luckily the chickens provided us with eggs, and strong cups of cowboy coffee churned our bowels. The 1st hour of the slog up Burgundy Col was an exercise in will-power. The accelerated blood flow through my liver speeded filtration, but pushed the chemicals deeper into my brain. As the last ounce of last night's fun left my system, we crested the col and blasted down to the east face of burgundy. It had been two or three years since I had been under the east faces of the wine spires to do chianti, so I had no memory of what the east face of Burgandy looked like up close. All I had we blurry photos taken from trips up the Vasiliki ridge the two previous years. Would there be cracks? Or would there be compact granite seams of overlapping roofs and death blocks as usually is the case? Dragons? A moat Troll? The sky was laden with rain and despair. Lo and behold! The fist part of the mountain was SPLITTER WHITE BUGABOO GRANITE!!! And legs that went all the way up! Heck Yeah! We did the old ro-sham-bow(sp?) and I got the 1st pitch! A 5.8 handcrack flake soared up to a weird off-width-like roof. There was gear! To my left a long layback with some lichen, to my right a spooky hand traverse into an a-cheval. Then it started to rain. I'll take the way with bomber hands and go right, I thought. Fun as hell! Natural belay spot at about 30 meters. Mark came up and it stopped raining. Good. Keep going. This lead took quite some time to credit Mark's will-power and routefinding tenacity. There was a blank looking slab to a blank looking headwall, to a blank looking ramp, to another blank looking overhang. Gonna get shut down. Mark went to go take a look. "Dude, this slab has a PERFECT 5.7 fingercrack up the center," "Dude the headwall had a fingercrack with positive holds" "Dude the ramp has a fingercrack in it" "Dude the headwall has a long steep fingercrack" Everything had a fingercrack! By the time Mark got to the overhang/headwall fingercrack it started to rain. The key slabs for feet were covered in a black lichen carpet. He began to aid, and just as he reached for his 1st free move CRACK-POW. Thunder and lightning overhead. We rapped off and headed home. Much debauchery with special guest Eric, SpecialEd and Lunger. It dumped rain all night long and into the morning. We ate much bacon that morning before we headed back up the pass (AGAIN) this time with overnight gear, dark skies, and a 1:30pm start. Day 2: At the pass by 3:30. Started the climb (AGAIN) by 4:30. We were a little late. We swapped leads so Mark could enjoy the 1st pitch and I could free the 2nd pitch. Mark went up the layback instead of the handtraverse and continued up the headwall and slab to below the 5.10 fingercrack. A FULL pitch of 5.9 (about 3 5.9 cruxes) to a semi-hanging belay. Future parties should split this up, we were in a hurry. I tacked the lichen fingercrack. My body needed to pull one way, with the crack jammed the other. No feet. Gotta scrub this. Some scrubbing and sequencing got us up the crux to insecure handjams. I continued up a handcrack covered in lichen (5.8) to these WILD system of flakes. You can see them from the ground. Huge fingers of rock pointed wildly into the east. There were several of these overlapping flakes creating a wildly exposed and fun jug haul to a major ledge system. There I found a very old looking fixed hex. Shit! The route had been done! Wait....I looked down to my left and saw a 4th class scree ledge system that led to my stance. Must've been an exploratory pitch cuz no-one had been the way we came, and very doubtful that they continued up. This was the only piece of fixed pro on the whole route. Maybe I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure I'm not. This 2nd pitch was also a very long 55 meter pitch. Mark's next 80 meter (simul) pitch took us 1/2 way up the massive corner system that splits the upper face. It was the MOST fun in a chimney (except epinepherine of course) I've ever had. as characterized on this route and the variations every time you needed a foot, one appeared, everytime the hands got to thin, there was a hold, sidepull, or undercling. What a blast! My pitch started of a big mungy with a couple interesting moss mushroom, but after a few pieces, it got stellar again and I stemmed and chimneyed and face climbed up the corner to the big split at the top. I took the right hand chimney (fun) b/c the left looked quite hard. Now we were on the huge ledge just below the summit. Mark finished the mountain with the 5.7 or 5.8 arete that I guess is part of the N.F. route. We did our last rap in the dark with big giant smiles on our faces! Day 3: A 7:30 wake up (slept through the alarm) woke us to seriously looming skies and chilly conditions! Luckily the face was mostly wind protected. Mark started up a crack to the left of the bugaboo crack that was a big easier and led to below the headwall below the ramp. It was a great pitch also, but I like the flake to roof to layback pitch better. Instead of doing the fingercrack pitch, I headed right up a thin crack open book that stated as a thin crack left facing corner. A little bit of lichen cleaning and I fingerlocked and laybacked up the 10a crux. This led me into the open book where I jammed, stemmed, and fingerlocked to a ledge. The wall on my left loomed above me with a HUGE AMAZING HANDCRACK that went all the way up to below a massive overhanging roof with a slab traverse below it. It fist-jammed, foot jammed, hand jammed, toe jammed, and finger locked (it has everything!- including a BEAR HUG!) until I was outta breath and outta gear. Mark finished the crack and was discouraged that it blanked out. No, I shouted, I think I see a crack that splits the slab! There was! Mark delicately switched cracks and led below the big roof to where it ended on the arete. The roof ends at the arete where the two come together creating a heady step around. Mark took his time choosing holds and gear. He dissapeared. Then I heard, "I am at the ledge above the flakes!!!" No kidding! It went, and linked up with our route! We just established a fantastic variation. Both ways are fun in their own way. This one had this awesome pitch I led, the other has the hard fingercrack and the wicked flake pitch. Mark had to be at work by 6pm so we decided to rap since we had already down the other pitches. A giant diagonal rap got us to our 1st anchor. Mark had a wire brush and spend and hour and a half on rappel scrubbing the shit out of the steep finger crack pitch. It may be easier than 10c now? The desperate insecure handjams above the fingercrack has good jams now and you should be able to use your feet on the slabs alongside the fingercrack. Future parties are encouraged to take a big wire brush to freshen up this pitch and also the step-around variation to expose key footholds. After shivering my ass off waiting for mark, we started to pull the ropes to do the last rappel. After three feet of pulling, the ropes got stuck! We did eveything we could to get them down including some very sketchy shit. Mark HAD to get to work, and it was very steep to prussik up the ropes, so we did not have time to retrieve them. Mark is going to try and get them back asap, but there are beers involved if you get them for him. Please don't booty our ropes after we put all that hard work in, please. Just coil them up and huck 'em off from the ledge. I will post some photos soon (they suck, I used the wrong speed film and the lighting was terrible). Mark took better photos, but are slides, so it may be a bit. Mark is working on a topo and is probably done. He will post it online soon. It contains all 11 different pitches. It will also be available at the board near the Mazama Store. Mark and I had such a fun fun fun and amazing time. What a great three days. And what a classic line! Folks who want to climb Burgundy but don't want to do the N.F. route are highly encouraged to repeat this route. There is no sketchyness involved. I reccomend carrying shoes in the pack and rapping the N.F. to the col . The N.F. is 4 60 meter raps straight down. Gear Notes: Rack: One set of thin gear and big gear to 4". Double on fingers to fists (i.e. double set of yellow alien to yellow camalot). Double ropes if doing long pitches. Single rope and rap line if doing shorter pitches (more fun that way). Wire brush to spruce up the route. P.S. Mark left his brush on the summit rap by accident so if you want to grab that, rap the route, and scrub, go for it. Approach Notes: A 2 hour grunt to the pass. There is a cairn on the pull out where to drop down. Soft snow on the col with some steepness. No tool neccesacry, can bypass the steep bits until it gets icy later on.

go up the left. it is super easy, no need for rope class 3. move over to it and climb up. easy. no worries

Great photos!!!!!

screw you, do you know how much body tension it took to stay horizontal in that crack???

jesus christ jordon, you totally fucked that one up

wish I could return my feet to MEC. Anyway, I got to see some beautiful things, got in some good climbing, and mostly had a good time.

Climb: back of beyond,bendor,cayoosh 1st ascents, etc...-Brambles Buttress Sky, nothing, partial revolution Date of Climb: 7/16/2004 Trip Report: After playing Marco Polo in the fog for a week, Jordan, Justin and I decided (unwillingly) to head to the mysterious Bendor range in British Columbia. The forecast was crap except for the last day, but instead of heading to WA pass and actually climbing something, we head out into the great unknown. Much driving ensued as we zoomed past pemberton, and headed to the urban sprawl of Gold Bridge! We were stopped b/c of active logging, but after some beers were passed around, we were let through. We passed Dru's megaclassic, Turax. Looks f@#$cking terrible. Don Serl was suckered into climbing it i guess. hahahahaha. lesson learned: never trust Dru. Some hearty slogging brought us above treeline and there we entered Newfoundland. Mist and green meadows swirled around us with glaciers looming everywhere. I expected to hear the 3pm work bells from glacier bay and bag pipe music as we traversed to our unknown objectives. Some snow slogging got us to a notch and we gazed down upon the mighty Bendor range! Our jaws dropped. It was amazing. Huge granite peaks everywhere! Little did we know that most of the rock is garbage or no cracks w/lots o' roofs. Every route we scoped looked like a hard aid climb. The only thing worth doing was a 2000' + ridge on some tripple towers. It was only 1500' of elev from base to top, but each tower dropped down a ways to the next. As we got closer, the rock looked wicked loose and scary. We headed back to camp and were ready to get up early to do this new route. It should be noted that the whole time the forecast was for 50-60% rainstorms and 0% for the last day. We had decent weather those two days, so to our surprise when we woke up the last day to climb, it was pissing rain. Justin drove like an asshole on the way out and popped a tire. Luckily he has no toolkit in the car, so like a scene out of 2001 a space odysey, we used makeshift tools out of knifeblades, ice axes, and hammers to change the tire. The next trip Jordan and I went back to Back of Beyond Buttress to do a new route. I was a giddy as a schoolgirl on free condom day since Back of Beyond Buttress was one of the best routes I've ever climbed. Surely everything must be good there? We started way to the right up an AMAZING 1st pitch. Splitter clean crack led us up a full pitch to a ledge. Jordan did a great lead! I tried to tackle an overhanging upsidedown offwitch roofcrack on my pitch. I gave up after my #4 cam ripped out while I had both feet jammed in the crack and way trying to jam a hip in. It would've been a hard 5.11 o.w., but I pussied out and traversed around. Jordan then got a serious lead in. He fell some distance when a block he was laybacking ripped out, and also ran it out on a knifeblade. My next pitch probably took two hours of hard serious climbing and aid climbing w/o aiders (A1+ french free). Many pitches later including a magnificant mantle onto 100,000 tons of stacked blocks by Jordan brought us to the top. We then tagged the summit we forgot to tag two years earlier and did a super easy walk off to the car. Brambles Buttress Sky. 1st ascent Jordan Peters, Mike Layton. 7/12/04 (5.10, A1, D+, serious. 9 pitches) The next day we drove to the ice climb Carl's Berg and went up the dirt road behind it. The cayoosh range there makes a complete circle. A 25 mile ridge above 7000' with over 26 summits. We planned on 3-4 days, no rope. The intial ridge gain took 4500' of hard approaching including a cougar stalking session. Then the thunderheads began to build and the delicate sound of thunder crackled across the horizon. We kept on going since there was no lightning visible. The ridge got knife-edged and tedious and we tagged summit after summit. Pooped, we camped on a saddle and melted a shitload of snow for water. Blue skies the next morning tooks us further on the ridge. Sometimes it felt like we were in the sierra. We were utterly worked. Miles and many summits later we arrived at the crux. FUCK! We needed a rope. Maybe not for getting up (look like 8 hours of 5.7 climbing), but getting down. The range continued dizzingly into the horizing. Miles and miles of peaks, ridges, and summits to go. Should we bypass a good 1/4 of the traverse? No, the last 1/3 was the easy section. Our feet were hamburger by this point anyway. Next time I'm bringing sneakers. I did part of the traverse in my sandals to ease the pain, although it was really really sketchy 4th classing in sandals w/big tottering blocks! We probably would be in the hospital for most of the summer if we continued on our mangled feet. I don't even know how many miles and mountains we went. It was a shitload. So we began our epic decent. We made it down to a basin but were totally cliffed out. We had to do a high traverse for a couple hours up and back to a major scree gully. We got to the road and realized we had 8 miles to roadwalk back to the car. Many drugs were consumed, and we stumbled back to the car totally fucking hosed. I haven't been so abused in quite a long time. I had blisters the size of cherry tomatoes on the tips of my big toe and blood blisters from sandle scree climbing. Jordan's bad ankles were hugely swollen, and he had blisters as well. Oh well, maybe we'll go and the the whole thing another time. It was really really cool, but we'd need a rope and more than 4 days worth of food, and a better forecast.\ I have been non-stop eating since I've been back. Gear Notes: Bendor range-boots Brambles Buttress Sky-full rack w/knifeblades Revolution Traverse-comfy shoes, small rope and rack, 4-5 days worth of shit.

no, i can easily fall without trying. you can't stike out unless you step up to bat, however.

Tomorrow

god bless you girlfriend

I bought a six pack of straight edged razors and fillet'd it. It was like tearing a very small hole in a ketchup packet and squeezing it really tight. A watery brown mist now covers the railing on my porch. Puss spray!

must....resist...spray...

you can't search for a route you don't know about dumbass

better than rubber sheets and baby oil

oh, also any good beta gets lost in a mound of crap

exactly