layton

7.1

did they just leave the old cut slings there?

Thanks Alex! Darin? WTF does "6" mean?

how are the pitches above the psycopath pitch? Just curious, the route has been on my mind ever since I rapped off from the top of the psycopath the other day.

check your PMs

solid belays and gear was what I heard

on sat and sun, but looks good from now till fri

Forget the above post. I still need partners IMMEDIATELY!!!!!

I have tue and wed secured now, but still need partners till the 14th, and hopefully a road trip partner after.

still need a partner for tomorrow and or Wed at least! Hyperspace? Davis/Holland-loving arms? Wa pass 1st ascents? come on!

There's a good chance I will head south on the 14th. I have no partner lined up. Please email me if interested. looking to do long moderately hard rock routes (Dana,Incredible Hulk,Dark Star, etc...)

i'll contact you around that time then. I may want to head south after the 14th. no high pressure in sight damnit

Yeah! I can't read you watch? Why is that? Have you checked w/Colin b/c he is the fastest and best climber.

I am looking for partners from 9/8 thru 9/13 and 9/15-10/1 for one or more days. Routes: Davis Hollan/Lovin Arms Hyperspace Davis Peak N.F. Baring N.F. Bonanza Pk N.F. Catherdal Range WA pass first ascents Please let me know if you are interested an can climb.

I hear the routes are really really shitty too.

I'm in bellingham Wayne! You post em. or how about Lane?

to the lowest bidder. dude has lost it. last time I saw him he was wandering railroad avenue trying to place the homeless folks in some sort of astrological allignment. mumbled something about skyclimb stealing his power animanl or something. then he tried to steal my socks.

i think folks are overestimating the scope of the "book" i want to write. this isn't going to be published and if i do sell it, it will only be for production costs. please keep the route suggestions coming.

you're right, i need to re-scan these photos. the scanner in the open lab right now is a piece of shit. still,you've been xtra surly these days. you need to

it was really bad lighting until later in the day, you cum-gurgler.

only one fixed piece on route besides the belay under the roof. it's the tiny nut on the A1 roof that is booty-able. Here are a few photos of the NR of stuart, colchuck peak, dragontail, and the W.face of CBR from this trip: Next is Nick on the "5.8 corner", then two of him following the 5.11 crack, a view of nick when I'm about ready to get raped going into the chimney, and the NR of stuart once again framed by the huge roof belay:

that was the "blackout period" where on the trail down I saw wood gnomes, an anaconda, and set the cruising altititude at 30,000 feet as we sailed out ships down the hallicinogen river. Notes regarding the nelson guide (I don't own the updated version). 1. bring a lot of gear. Doubles up to 1", tripple 2", doubles again 3"-3.5" (note, this was not our rack, but wish it was) 2.there is 1-2 short 5.7-5.8 pitches before the 5.10+ crack which is NOT 1.5", more like .75" and is VERY short. We came into that pitch from it's right, I guess others from its left. 3.the approach going around the left side of the lake may be quicker than going around the entire lake and then up some of asguard. 4.it is hard climbing to get into the cracks that finally get to the 5.7 chimeny which is much easier than 5.7 5.slim pickens for the pedestal belay 6.the 5.8 dihedral after the 5.9 step across is thin, but the crack is very very good so don't worry 7.the ...... pitch to the base of the long 5.11 crack isn't 4th class 8. the 5.11 long pitch says 2"-3" and sure you need that, but the 1st 1/2 of the pitch takes .5" -.75" and the belay is fixed so use your gear (unlike me who hoarded it to the belay) 9. the 5.11 traverse pitch take your big gear, so keep it handy (vs. clipped to the back of your harness like I did) 10. the aid roof has one fixed nut and is very handy, but it sure isn't fixed so you decide if you want to steal it. Anchors take whatever you got left, but you'll wish you had a 2" cam somewhere in it (i did not, and wasn't psyched about that as I led out again). 11.the 5.8 chimney pitch is ferocious. it is serious hard climbing, and there are 2-3 chimneys so hoard your big guys as long as you can. I mean, this pitch is the crux. 12. there are many surprises on the route that are not mentioned in the guide so don't expect only the type of climbing mentioned on the pitch descriptions (like long fingers cracks after the chimney to ANOTHER chimney which is almost harder to get in than the 1st upsidedown knee bar on arm hand-jam exposure fest. 13. did i mention that the 5.8 chimeny will utterly destroy you? 14. the ........ 4th class to the ridge isn't 4th class, and isn't totally straighforward. I made a weird traverse on a hand rail w/little feet and some lichen slab simul climbs to a tiny chickenhead summit pinch. 15. the 5.10+ "1st pitch" is the easiest pitch all told 16. there is a rappell just on the east side of the summit block that is exactly 30m and gets you to the surf-off. I don't know if you can walk off the summit cuz it was getting dark and the rap was quick and ez. 17. after surfing down the easiest decent in the cascades, you think you're gonna get cliffed out. you can either cut back right, just below the base of the face on ledges, or go lower like we did, then cut right to 100' above the bottom of the basin. 18.We had some difficulty on the upper pitches getting nick with the pack up so I'd discuss a proper aid system for the 2nd and not bring a pack at all, just clip nalgeens or something. could'a saved hours. 19. the basin has a hard snowpatch, but no water. the gulley we took from asguard has water till about 1/2 way up it so you could bring a large water bladder to fill there if you wanted to camp. highly reccomened camp spot. it is 5 star. then after the route, you could chill and reflect, vs. take 5 years off your knees. Anyways, hope that helps. This was a fine route, especially the long 5.11 pitch. Probably is a bit drier if it hadn't rained hard a couple days earier, but i guess it's always a bit damp. There are many opportunities to stem on the left side of the corner I found thank god. Nick was a great friend and was in high spirits even when I lost it and yelled at him multiple times cuz I was almost in shock I was soooo hungry at the belays. Sorry I yelled nick. I will try and post some really fun photos tomorrow.

I'm still looking for suggestions! I'll ask for specific beta once the summer maddness is over with.

Thanks Scott! That was funny having directions yelled across the way. We musta been 10' too far left, didn't want to be in the poison ivy. Now I know. We understood that you were guiding, you got there 1st, and you also put the route up. Luckily I've already been on sysiphus, unlucky for my partner.

if I was god, i'd make more mountains with hot chicks everywhere like marmots or snafflehounds and I'd turn the canadian rockies into granite. then I'd make all the canadians exodus to saskatchewan and open up a chain of walmarts ontop of the cheif. alcohol would actaully make you as good a climber you think you are the next morning arfter that late night spray session. and seattle would burn and sink into the earth.