layton

Forgot good ol' Der Dihedral!

bump!

fuck me, this just sucks.... For the PNW only for all you "visitors"

clarification: i didn't do the N.F. rib on triumph. it just looked sucky up close. it just looked.....non-inspiring. steep but stupid. you sure you were on off white's route. did you see his bolts. why did it suck? explain.

So, what objectives have you thought were gonna be good climbs (esp. first ascents) and turned out sucky? Mine are all posted online alread 'cept for one that starts with a "T", but I need Jordop's permission to say it. 2nd letter is an "a". Angry Nipple Discharge, Brambles Buttress Sky,Carlos Rossi Memorial Tower,Holliway,Needles,NF Central Rib Triumph,W.Face Cuthroat...pretty much everything besides Action Potential and Back of Beyond Buttress. So come on, spill the beans. What sucks? What should we not waste our time on that you failed to climb? I know a Dberdinka/Necro route that would fit this bill. and of cousre all of Dru's crap on that slag heap that starts with an "A"

man, i really should proof read. who is we? I went solo today. The Doorish/Burdo line is on Grizley Needle. The Needles and Holliway are on the ridge that contains Tower Mtn, Golden Horn, and if you extrapolate, Porcupine peak, and Mt Hardy.

Climb: Holliway and The Needles North Faces-PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT Date of Climb: 9/11/2004 Trip Report: So if like me, you've been wondering about the North Faces of Holliway Mtn and the Needles at Washington Pass area, they suck... The other day Jordan and I hike 18 miles round trip to the base of the North Face of Holliway peak and said fuck it. It is a 1500' granite face similiar to the West Face of Silverstar. Except the ribs peter out to other ribs with intermittent sand and all the cracks are big ol' chimneys. So if you like 1500' of chimneys and sand, then this is the climb for you. Note, the north west ridge (i think) would be a good route, but really easy. One of the summit spires has huge DOUBLE chockstones! One of the stranget things I've seen on a mountain feature for sure! Today I drove up to the pass and parked at the enterance of Lone Fir campground to scope the North Faces of the Needles. We saw the huge overhanging summits from the Methow River Trail and also you can see one or two of them driving up the pass from Mazama. Anyway, I started about 50 yards downhill from the campground enterance and it worked fine. I schwacked up 4,000' to gain the summit of a couple of the needles south faces. I left the car at my usual 1:00pm and summited by 3:00pm which made decreased the self-loathing since beckey suggested 7 hours instead of 2. Since I was on recon, I then dropped down 1500' down the north side to where Mr. Doorish and Mr. Burdo had put up at IV 5.10+. I figured there were lots of Needles and there was bound to be more than one route. Nope. In face, their route looks like a big pile of shit and puke glued together with menstral scrapings. Going back up the 1500' slope from the other side too a lot longer and was THE WORST TALUS I HAVE EVER ASCENDED. No shit, 5, count em, 5..shoe emptyings! Back at the col I noticed it was gonna rain really soon, so my plan of traversing all the needles was put FOREVER on hold (go for it.very easy). I took my first break from the car and had two smokes, and the pounded it back down to the car. Near the car I found flagging! Then I found orange metal blazes nailed to trees. It was near a crag. Is this a route someone blazed to a "hidden crag" or something? What gives? Unforetunately I followed it down and it took me away from the truck. If you go to the needles, don't follow this, it isn't the best way to go. Start 50 yards down from pine creek and the campground. much more open slopes. still a fucking grunt (4500' = suck). p.s. has anyone ever climbed the huge slab wall directly across the way (above the campground). i think it's unoffically named the sunshine wall? Looks good and hard to get to. p.p.s. I found a 50' cliff that had totally fun o/ws and hand traverses. good rock on S.side needles. The overhanging needle summit would be about two short overhanging horizontal crack pitches on mostly good rock. Go get it. Gear Notes: shoes water food poles tobacco and match Tide with charcoal remover Approach Notes: Methow river trail is tecnichally closed at the bridge, but unless you head is shoved up your ass, you probably can figure out where to go without making needless social trails around the swath of fire destruction. A mountain bike would last about 4 miles before becoming worthless Needles schwack is better than blazed trail that either is for a crag, or for the needles itself.

Awesome TR! Those pics of Nick totally capture his essence! I'm really pysched you guys got this one, I know nick was jonesin' for it! WAY TO GO!

is that a you pluralarl?

lunges lunges lunges also, makes sure that your hams being tight isn't the problem.

I read it twice and got a lot out of it although I didn't read all the words.

do these count?

Specifically: Hyperspace NW Face SEWS S.Face Big Kangaroo

Haven't found a partner for the last two weeks of Sept. Need to get outta dodge! Weather here SUCKS! I also need partners till the 14th 'round here. Only requisite is you're able to follow 5.10+

weather.gov is the same thing dumbass

It's correct 60% of the time, every time.

MY GOD YOU ARE RIGHT! I forgot the 0.0000000001% chance a coin will land on its edge! So it's only a 49.9999999999% success rate DRU! Wanna climb somthin'?

wunderground is just weather.gov rehashed with icons. look at the weather station for the city you look up. could be nowhere near there.

Just did davis-holland loving arms today (got totally soaked in the rain!!!) but was wondering about the 5th pitch. At the bolts atop pitch 4 in the chimney, there is a bolt with a sling. Didn't see any other bolts or cracks but didn't venture to look. Is this where you can A0 then do the 10c? I went up about 15 feet to the easy flake hand traverse then went straight up a thin corner to face moves. What does this pitch rate? is it 10c like the guidebook kinda shows on the topo? Where the fuck are the bolt anchors for the top of this pitch? Didn't see em. Saw the line of bolts coming up, but no anchor where the met up near me at the ledge below the 5.9+ arching crack on the last pitch. Anyway, it was a hell of a good route and a LOT easier than I anticipated! Cheers for not sandbagging it. I lucked out with p.2-5 . So if you haven't done this route, it's fully non-commiting and a set of doubles from a to a #2 and a single set of nuts and #3+#4 cam are plenty. Never busted out the R.P.s or H.B.s as was suggested. Did some fancy finageling with regular nuts instead. All told, about 2-5 hours depending on how fast you are. Short pitches. Not reccomended in the rain however. shit is slick. Grabbed a cam at the start of pitch 4 cuz it is barn-doory and hard and woulda taken a serious pendulum (i felt it was the crux) so i blew the onsight. The crack to the squeeze o/w is hard on that pitch too! On that pitch (pitch 4) I moved left into another crack system instead of continuing up cuz it looked like it joined the chimney while the other did not. unsure if I was on route. a dirty hard pitch! but fun! And for those of you who, like me, always fuck up the approach in a new area...the guidebook map kinda sucks cuz it suggests you traverse the lower wall. Don't. Follow the rxr track to heart of the country wall and go up the trail KEEPING RIGHT AT THE BRANCHES. We not only traversed the lower wall, we mistook a left turn for a switchback and had to bushwack and drainage grovel across from the descent trail. On top, easily find the trail. It may or may not turn into the road, but somehow on top of the cliff we wound up on a fucking road? We re-schwacked off the road and got back on the trail minutes later. Don't do down any gullies or drainages. The end.

Weather.com - the pessimist. Will go from 0% to 60% within a matter of hours. 30% is their favorite per centage! It could be sunny and great or totally raining! Who knows? Stay inside! accuweather.com - the optimist. no percentages, only happy icons that never forecast rain. good for convincing your partner to climb if you have nothing better to do with your time..., "Dude the weather says 'Sun and Clouds' let's go!" Weather.gov -the generalist. Combining the unique weather ecosytems for the entire N.cascades into one vague forecasat. Washinton Pass and the Enchantments totally share the same forecast, dude! Yahoo,Wunderground, etc...the rehash. weatheroffice.ca.ec.gc -It's fun and cute that canadians try to forecast the weather! Of course, there's no mountain weather forecast. Sure is good that the forecast for Hope is aplicable to the mountains above. So what have y'all found to be your fav forecast? I'm prone to go with weather.com as they are the most pessimistic. of course they screwed me outta some good weekends this spring (remember that bullshit?) as did weatheroffice.

i need a summit pack if you wanna sell it?

one of their clients was hawt

Did I mention I need a partner for this on friday? PM me for some fun.

what's new about it?

It was me, I did it.