AlpineK

Ghost Lake Merlon Mountain Frank Fickeisen Cal Magnusson and Arnold Bloomer Bob Latz belaying up high Looking down from the summit Mt Combatant and Tiedemann Looking down the Tiedemann glacier There are a few more pictures in the gallery.

Trip: Mt. Waddington - Bravo Glacier Date: 7/28/1960 Trip Report: I am posting a trip report published in the CAJ in 1961. I am doing it with the verbal approval of the author Frank Fickeisen. Obviously this report won't help anybody with an upcoming trip, but it is interesting local history. Kurt Fickeisen Aug 27, 2007 Seattle Mountaineers In The Mt. Waddington Area Frank Fickeisen ----------------------------------------------------- The names in this area had puzzled the writer for some years. The following information was supplied by W. R. Young of the Geographic Division of the Department of Lands and Forests, and has been augmented where indicated by asterisks: TOBA : The Inlet was discovered and explored by Galiano and Valdez in 1792 and while there they found an Indian table. Consequently it was named, "Canal de la Tabla". The spelling of Toba was the result of a chartmaker's error. MOUNT COMPTON: Named after the birthplace of Sir William Gilbert. MOUNT GILBERT: Named after Sir.William Gilbert, half brother of Sir Walter Raleigh, and the father of English colonization, who took possession of Newfoundland in 1583. MOUNT FALCON: Named after the vessel of which Sir William Gilbert was captain jointly with Sir Walter Raleigh. LILLOOET : After the Lillooet tribe of Indians. The name means "Wild Onion", or Alinm Cernuum. THE ARCHBISHOP: Named (1960) as it was above the Bishop Glacier and Bishop River. A gendarme on this ridge was known to us as the "Pope's Nose". -------------------------------------------- Early in 1960 The Seattle Mountaineers decided to have a climbers outing in the Mt. Waddinton area of the Coast Range of British Columbia. To suit the interest of the participants, two climbing groups were formed. The first group planned to see as much of the area as possible. The second group planned to climb Mt. Waddinton. An advance party of four flew from Campbell River to Ghost Lake on July 28. Two members of this party, James Kurtz and Roger Jackson, went to Rainy Knob near the head of the Tiedemann Glacier. The other two, Mike Kennedy and Mike Boyko, made a camp at Nabob Pass. The party of Kurtz and Jackson arrived at Rainy Knob on Friday afternoon July 29. They were greeted by a group of four Canadian climbers, John Owen, Elfricla Pigou, Joan Stirling and Derrick Boddy. The Canadians prepared tea, and there was considerable discussion of the route up the Bravo Glacier. Later that day the Canadian party moved their camp to the top of Rainy Knob. On Saturday the other thirteen members of The Mountaineers outing were flown to Ghost Lake, and air drops were made at Nabob Pass and Rainy Knob. Several times during the day Kurtz and Jackson saw the Canadians relaying loads up the Bravo Glacier. By Sunday evening the two groups were assembled, the first group at Nabob Pass, and the Mt. Waddington group at Rainy Knob. Monday morning the Waddington party proceeded up the Bravo Glacier, following the tracks of the Canadians. The snow was quite soft. At the 8,000 foot level a crevasse crossing used by the Owen party had disappeared. The glacier was traversed to the right until a new crossing was found and then traversed back to the left to rejoin the tracks. The tracks continued left across the glacier and disappeared in a flat area covered with ice debris. The debris came from a collapsed ice cliff immediately above and covered the whole area down to a crevasse system below. A sleeping bag cover was observed on the lower edge of one of these crevasses. The cover could not be reached and there were no other signs of the disaster. Crossing the debris area was accomplished as rapidly as possible since the stability of the ice wall above was still unknown. Beyond the debris area there was a multiple set of tracks that led both out of and back in to the debris area. These tracks terminated at the base of the rock ridge on the left side of the Bravo Glacier. Scaling this ridge took a great deal of care since the large packs made good balance a problem. The crest of the ridge was reached at sundown, and small but comfortable camp sites were located. The following morning the ridge was followed to the snow just below Bravo Col. The snow was soft and there were no signs that a party had been there earlier. The only reasonable conclusion was that the Canadian party was buried in the debris area below. Camp was made at the Bravo Col by noon. The following morning the party proceeded to the base of the summit rock. The tents had been left at Bravo Col and while Neal Jacques and Arnold Bloomer established the route on the lower part of the rock, the remainder of the group dug two snow caves. The following morning was clear and wind free. Kurtz and Bloomer were feeling below par and so decided not to try the rock. The notch at the base of the key chimney system was reached with ease. Bob Latz made the lead around the first chockstone and the remainder of the chimney went rapidly. At the top of the chimney system a left traverse led to a steep gully. The gully was topped by several icy gargoyles which could not be circunlvented. After returning to the base of this gully a ledge system that angled right above the previously mentioned chimney system was found and followed. This led to another gully that went directly to the summit. The summit provides a view in every direction: the Snow Peak of Waddington, the Tiedemann-Asperity group, the Tellot and Tiedemann Glaciers, Mt. Munday, Ice Valley, the Franklin Glacier, and the peaks of the Mt. Geddes-Mt. Roovers area. The descent of the summit rock was facilitated by three long rappels. We returned to Bravo Col on Friday August 5th with Jacques and Cal Magnusson, taking a side trip to climb Mt. Spearman. On the Saturday trip down the Bravo Glacier the ice debris area was inspected after observing that no further activity of the ice cliff above the area had occurred. The inspection led to the discovery of a water bottle and a piece of tent pole. Lower on the glacier several snow bridges which were previously used were gone and the problem of getting Mike Boyko back from a crevasse was considerable. The following week was used for a trip to Whymper's Dome; and for climbs of the Upper Claw Peak, Mt. "S" and Tellot Spire from a camp on the Tellot Glacier. Meanwhile the other party of the outing had a fine tour of the whole area. This group led by Keith Gunnar, had eight other climbers; Mike Rees, Marilyn Loranger, Barbara Bigley, Gene Dodson, Dave Nicholson, Mike Kennedy, Sharon Fairley and Vern Edlin. This group first operated from Nabob Pass, making climbs of the lower Claw Peak and Mt. Jeffry. They then moved camp to Photo Point on the Tellot Glacier. From this camp the Upper Claw Peak and Tellot Spire were climbed, and an attempt was made on Serra 111. The camp was moved back to Nabob Pass from where a climb of Mt. Williams was made. Also from this camp a three day attempt on Mt. Marcus Smith was nearly successful. To supplement this climbing activity this group located nearly every good viewpoint and comfortable camp site in the area. The whole party returned to Ghost Lake on August 12 and to Campbell River on August 13. The trip had shown its all of the beauty and all of the impersonal forces that mingle so freely in the mountains.

Pine beetles are all over and on the loose.

I lived at this house just outside of Eldorado Canyon for about a year several years ago. I love it since I was so close to rad climbing. My landlord and another roommate lived in the house; they spent all of their free time watching MMA events.

Exactly.

It wasn't my birthday, but I got a cool present for christmas last winter. It looked like a miniture Stihl chainsaw, but when you play with it you find that it is a lighter where the flame comes out from the handle side.

Hell yes

Yesterday a guy from Oregon came up and checked out the Knuckleboom truck. He liked it and gave me a pile of cash for it. He's going to get a dolly for his scout rig and trailer it back to OR on the back end of the Knuckleboom this morning. The only thing I have left to do is make a report of sale to the DOL. The truck is going to spend its days picking up large rocks. There's still a chipper available for sale.

There are all kinds of letters and little kiddy toys in there. I would have read a bit, but it was wet enough I didn't want to muck them up. Thanks everyone it wasn't anywhere close to rad climbing, but it was a bid deal for me given where I was at last year at this time.

This trip was a FA for me at least. I've never been up Mailbox before. It's a lot more fun than Si, and I've been up that a hundred times.

Yes the doctor is a she, and there still no word on when she wants me back in. I am keeping tabs on other things though. Today I hiked up here then I ate a bunch of beef jerky and weighed myself. I'm at 203.5 lbs today which is down 16.5 lbs from when I started weighing myself. (screw the contest start) I don't remember exactly, but it seems like I'm getting pretty close to where I was before I hurt myself.

Trip: Mailbox Peak - The Trail Route Date: 8/21/2007 Trip Report: I know so what it's just a hike. This is the first alpine thing with a summit I've done in over a year, so it's a big deal to me. The weather was suppose to be better after noon on this day, but it kept raining long after that. On this route there seem to be multiple trails that all work for the route up. The sun never came out, but there were some huckleberries on the trail. Nobody else was out this day which was nice. The mailboxes at the summit were both stuffed with letters and odds and ends. I spent long enough on the summit to take a couple pictures then headed back down to my truck and then Ken's Truck Town where I bought a box of beef jerky. Time to summit: 3hrs. Total Time : 5hrs I wonder if that idiot from Portland with the dog ever set a record car to summit? Summit in the rain. Hurry up and take that picture so I can get the hell out of here. Gear Notes: Shoes are needed. Approach Notes: Approach via Ken's Truck Town, Middle Fork Road, and Lake Dorothy Road. Park at a large lot on the left side of the road. Then follow the gated road to the right and bypass the gate. Follow the road till you see an obvious trail going uphill to the left of the road.

Just to be clear Pink you would have to send money to the site admin. I'm just looking for some cash under the table from others.

Yes, but how much $ is that worth to you.

I'm willing to take bids on what to change Pink's title to. I'll consider all suggestions.* *Cash up front for the winning bid.

I'm a mod, but I had nothing to do with your current title. Just look at it as a sign that you made a big enough impression to rate fucking with.

Porter has helped me with my fucked up computer, and thanks to him it's behaving itself....for now; who knows what it'll do next week.

My advice is to never believe a user with 1 post to their user name. Feel free to prove me wrong...like that's going to happen.

Yeah, I want to climb that chimney.

They should make ski helmets out of it. It's the middle of August and all I can think about is skiing.

That looks like an excellent way to spend a day in the desert. I'll have to keep that in mind the next time I'm in Vegas.

When I did the route we did a rap off the top and downclimbed the West Ridge. That went pretty smoothly.

Mt Torment.

Clearly the next picture posted here should be Don's favorite Via Ferrata picture. I mean why do a wimpy Via Ferrata like the photo above when you can go full on. My best approximation: Actually after the Tacoma Narrows that thing looks pretty fun.

Exactly. Maybe somebody should forward that story to some of the groups who are active above the Upper Town Wall.