rbw1966

Who were the lurking ladies who showed up? Were your beer goggles fogging up and you mistaking Ivan for a chikita? Who (or what) did you go home with? Did you and Pete 'break in' your minivan?

Rose and Raindrop, on Grand ave. Someone bring the digital camera so we can get sketch and the wife in action.

Yes--it does indeed take a great deal of bravery to don all that riot gear and spray an unarmed woman at close range with a few of your compadres. Trask, I think your idea of bravery seems to differ considerably from mine.

um. . .does anyone care?

someone's in charge??? i thought we were all fascist anarachists (insert greamlin of swaztika wearing, eugene-cop beating smiley face)

Go to your local mountaineering store (or some other venue that sells it) and buy yourself some stretchy cord like small diameter bungy cord and feed it through the slots on the crampon patch, add one of those depression-clips and voila, you have an adjustable attachment point for your crampons on the outside of your pack. Beware of bushwacking with this in place lest you get snagged by a tree and that bungy bites into the back of your head. Or buy a pack with a crampon pouch. I'll take the extra ounce for the convenience it provides.

Either day works for me. Wed is better than Tues but either works.

Best halloween costume I ever wore was a set of scrubs and a stethascope. I think every girl in the room wanted me to listen to her heart. Did my lecherous soul a world of good. Call me Dr. Love.

I don't think I'd be downing any pills DFA gives you lest you wake up face down with his signature all over your nether regions.

Yeah--that is one BAD ASS looking crag.

I hope so since I have class that night until 9

How does one measure invincibility?

Thats a good price? I just got a pair at Climb Max in Portland for 200

I'm not sure if Alex is thinking of something else but DO NOT get suckered into the common mistake of crossing yokum ridge high. If you do you will have to contend with some manky downlcimbing/rapping. I know it sucks to lose elevation but crossing yokum lower (as the guidebook suggests) is truly the easier and faster way to achieve the Sandy Headwall. I agree with everything else he has to say, although the conditions do vary substantially. Right now I'd bet that its not terribly steep and that one alpine axe would suffice quite comfortably. Soloing it makes better sense unless you are sketched with the exposure and in that case bring plenty of pickets and do running belays. When I did it before new years a couple years ago it was very steep on the upper headwall and I was glad to have an extra tool. It was perfect styrafoam to that point and we soloed the entire route. The exposure was exciting and the views breathtaking. Have fun and check the avy reports.

I can loan you my ascenders if you want--it would depend on your return date though.

No, perhaps not. But biners have broken. Quite recently in fact. Rope stretch potentialy has more to do with this then biner strength. Its my understanding that biner failure is most commonly attributed to crossloading rather than any rope considerations.

Second Winter's motion. All in favor?

Lets not forget that Ivan teaches high school. All those pubescent hotties must be driving him insane.

My two cents (adjusted for inflation): forget putting knots in the rope. You'll take way more time moving past knots and when you have already been stuck in a crevasse for a while getting the hell out is something you want to do as quickly as possible. The friction of the rope on the lip of the crevasse will slow you down enough without knotting the ropes unless you're walking across an icefield and the lower Kahiltna in June is not that. Also, I'd advise against using ultra skinny ropes 'cause jugging them will be trickier with mechanized ascenders (jumars or tiblocs). Using prussiks, no big deal. If you really plan on doing something technical where two ropes will be handy then I agree with storing one so it doesn't get wet and freeze up. Have fun--when are you leaving?

Another month and a half and I will be swilling piva on the croatian coast.

Is this some new kind of prison code? Hmm.. a package from UPS (a.k.a. "Brown"), a "hot chick" (obviously a euphemism for his cell mate) and two "ropes"? I don't even want to think about it.

Piva is beer. I'd hardly consider that an "adult bevereage". Shit, most people I know drink it like soda pop.

Do a google search on rec.climbing for info on copyright issues. I vaguely recall that someone actually did a fair amount of research on the issue.

Horse Brass is on Belmont at around 47th or so.

Actually, why would you use a figure 8 to tie in when the DBBB is smaller and you can actually untie it after dogging the hell out of some savage project? The fig. 8 is old-school, yo; get with the newness. Figure 8 is easier to inspect when taking newbies climbing. I didn't ask what were the relative merits of each knot. Sorry for the confusion.