rbw1966

werd! great news

I agree your analogy may be more a propos although I rarely use a one-piece anchor for rappel. Even so I can't think of a single time I have ever seen anyone bounce test an anchor. Good point about the factor 2 falls though--ouch. The only piece I have ever had pop was a hook though so maybe I've been lucky. And yeah, I am a gaper all right.

This is news?

I've heard arguments back and forth about bounce-testing. I saw a video of some ladies climbing a wall in Zion (Steph Davis?) and she was bounce testing those pieces so hard I cringed. I bet those babies were welded in place--I felt sorry for the second. My thoughts are that you never bounce test gear on a free-climb lead so why on Aid? I'll give it a sturdy couple of tugs but don't bounce the shit out of it unless I am getting ready to do a few hook moves or place some marginal pro higher. If it holds my weight chances are it will hold my fall. I've GENTLY bounced on hooks though to see how secure they are--with my head turned and my hand over it. Thats some scarey shiite.

I love this holiday. I am Irish (like the Irish need an excuse to get drunk?) and this day in 1988 I was discharged from the Army after 4 years of indentured servitude. God I am getting old.

Likewise.

Don't forget the Kuwaiti Baby-pulled-from-incubator story. Millions believed that story and probably still do, in spite of the (limited) amount of press debunking it.

Who's bein played foo Obviously I was for even responding.

Played out like last years Top 40.

Omar Sharif in "Lawrence of Afghanistan."

You'd be hard pressed to convince me that Mt. Washington is worthy of any significance save for its absolute chossiness. There may be a couple solid pitches on it but hardly worth the slag you climb getting to them. But then, Wayne, you groove on that pucker factor don't ya?

Climb Max in Portland has many new copies of Oregon High. Nick Dodge's guide is pretty cool too--if you can find it. I've got my sites set on a few of those climbs this spring/summer. Anyone want to climb some choss with me? Ropes optional.

Conditions are so variable up there which may help explain the difference in responses you are receiving. For instance, when I was there I cached my skis at the base of Motorcycle Hill (I'm a notoriously bad skier). I was using Invernos and Silvretta bindings. My partner skied to 14k on his t2's. We had a bitch of atime getting up Squirrel Hill because of his insistance on not taking off his skis but he had a much more pleasant time coming down then I did. Take one pair of boots. Yeah, you're pulling a sled so you can take anything but you will be CURSING that fucker before your trip is through. Make it easy on yourself and settle on one pair. The ski will be pretty miserable regardless of what you decide so suck it up. Bring your favorite genera of cannabis and your troubles will soon fade away.

Does anybody have the Bibler winter bivy? I am curious how you like it if you do have one. I have one but haven't had the opportunity to use it yet. I'll post a review after a trip next week.

They do. At least when I went through EMT training they encouraged us to try to have a hand on the patient at all times. Just be careful where you place that hand.

Is this "professional" massage or Professional massage? My neck is killing me.

Can't speak to Canadian customs but U.S. Customs can/will toss your bootius maximus in jail and/or fine you for having paraphenalia if there are trace amounts of illegal substances detectable on it. Buddy of mine got busted coming back from mexico with a pipe and it cost him $500 clams and a day in the slammer.

I used Talkeetna Air Taxi in '99 and felt they were ok. They were more focused on flying the tourons around the mountain then in dropping off us dirtbags or picking us back up. Just trying to swing a buck or two but the way I see it I paid my money and should have had some priority--but we're a captive audience and the tourons aren't. Paul is a decent fellow and a climber to boot. Beckey used TAT when we were there, in case this matters to you at all. While waiting at Kahiltna International Airport to be picked up by TAT, Jay Hudson felt sorry for us and gave us a ride back to Talkeetna. For that I promised if I ever returned I would use him. Last year (2002) we used Hudson and he was the best. Didn't have to wait more than a couple hours coming or going. I'd recommend him to anyone and if going back he would continue to get my business. We paid in advance both times. Personally, I would avoid using K2 because they have a contract with the Princess Cruise line and are trying to edge out the smaller guys. Go with Geeting, TAT or Hudson and I am sure you can't go wrong. TAT might need the business more since they lost a plane last year (crash) Hope this helps

Then you'll agree, of course, that Rush pretty much sums up the Republican perspective.

Forego the solid form and head straight for the apple schnapps. Mass quantities were consumed whilst living in Deutschland. Mmmm. . good. Added benefit of avoiding that whole poor-design thing.

I hear it won't be until this fall that this stuff is available on the civilian market.

Just got the recent issue of Climbing (wife subscribed as a present, not that I would waste my money on it) and included with it was a Climb High catalog. Buried within said catalog was a picture of our own Forest. Hey Forest--if I send you a copy can I get it autographed?

I love ewe.

I've presented my passport and ID card every time I have crossed the border. On at least one occasion (last thanksgiving) I personally watched as the guard ran a check on me on the NCIC database. For some reason I didn't raise any red flags in spite of my checkered past.

Freeclimb-- I know of someone here in Portland who enjoys taking on the big monoliths for trademark infringement for the fun of it. If you want I can hook you up with him and you can see what he has to say. PM me if you are interested.