rbw1966

Look at the weather reports, read the avy reports, form your own opinion. If you can't manage that you probably owe it to yourself and SAR to stay off the mountain.

Way to go! So if I understand your report correctly you did the traverse around the gendarmes rather than going up them correct? Nice feather in your cap. Did you actually place those stoppers?

Was the sledder part of your group? Were you in that blue VW van? If so we were the guys right next to you in the green 4runner and tele gear--I was wearing the baseball cap. It was a fabulous day indeed. Beautiful conditions. My partner crapped out 3/4 up so we relaxed a bit before skiing down. The upper slopes had a gnarly crust I kept breaking through that would catch my ski and send me cartwheeling. The lower portions were spectacular and we had a blast. I kept thinking that sledder was in for a big ride!

It is a violation of some federal statute (unlawful trade practices act?) to charge your account for something without having it in stock and shipping it out. Of course, this only applies within the US. I had a girlfriend who worked for a catalog business and they got hammered bad once for charging someones credit card and then basically forgeting about the order. A similar thing to what you described happened to me once at Mountain Gear. They did me right after I bitched though. I got the entire order free (~150) and free shipping. Caveat emptor.

Thats what I was thinking. Round trip from snowdome but like you I figured there would be minimal snow for the approach. Nice to know someone else suffered that instead of me. Did I meet you at Climb Max one time a few months ago talking about ice on the Coe?

Sounds like fun. I almost went over that way last weekend myself. Maybe this coming weekend. If you had it to do over again woul dyou ski to the base?

Congratulations! Great TR.

Voice of experience?

and talking out his ass. Last time I encountered problems with dogs (I leave mine at home when I go to Smith usually) was a couple who were climbing five gallon buckets as their two rottweilers proceeded to destroy the juniper bush they were tied to in a hail of bakrs and bites. Not a piece of trad gear in sight. Smiths not exactly a trad haven (there are some great trad routes there but its mostly a clip-up) so blaming the dog problem at Smith on trad climbers is a tad bit disingenuous.

That crust caused me to cartwheel at least three times on my way down Saturday. WHat day were you there?

Those signs have been there for years. A friend got ticketed (70 clams) for not having his dog on a leash at least two years ago.

I heard from someone who heard from someone else who heard from a friend of their's that we're all wacko. What was the point? I agree that his hand-drawn topos often leave much to the imagination but thats part of the adventure to climbing. The fantasy drawings are not to my taste but its his book to do with as he sees fit. I've yet to see a guidebook that was perfect to all people. I think he's done a great job. I hope someone steps up and starts working on the next update since he's not likely to pony up again and its a tremendous amount of work.

Anyone know the actual ORS or administrative rule which regulates this? Its a bummer but I can appreciate why they instituted this policy.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned them, but I have a set of the Kong stoppers and love them. Cheap, bomber and the new ones are color coded. What I also suggest is climbing with people who have different stoppers on their racks. I have another set of stoppers (DMM Wallnuts) that I picked up after using a buddies. They are the bomb.

Pizza in HR is better than the burritos.

First recommendation: do a search of this site. This topics been beaten to death. Also do a search of google.groups for rec.climbing and rec.skiing.backcountry for more insight. Personally, I'd wear my tele boots the entire time. Have fun.

Subsequent to this, however, the Ward was laid off and unable to find work. He became bitter and turned to alcohol to soften the blow. Eventually he succumbed to the solace offered by the rear portals of his offspring. Finally, one day it all became clear to June when she asked Ward to go to the store with her. His reply? "No thanks honey, I'm going to stay at home and pack some fudge with the kids."

Putting a leash on your dog will not necessarily prevent it from biting some kid in the face when said kid walks up and starts grabbing said dog's ears in a game of peek-a-boo. I've had my dogs nicely leashed and anchored well away from the crowds on the backside of Smith only to have some dipshit parent allow their kid to walk over and start fucking with them. Parents need to leash their kids to prevent them from intruding on my golden retriever's nature experience. All he wants to do is chill out, dream of eating kitty roca and try not to think about his arthritis. I've been bit in the face by a yellow lab puppy. It was my own damn fault for sticking my ugly mug in his space and scarring him for life. Who's to blame in htis situation? Me. Take responsibility for your actions folks. Be respectful. When that fails, 9mm handgun evens the playing field.

I was up there last weekend. With all the new snowfall its unlikely you'll even be able to tell where the schrund is. Have fun

I'm not likely to be unleashed for more than a weekend so my vote is for A-Lakes. Yes, I do have a dirty mind.

Or puppy porn from Beefchub

In colder years some ice forms at Ski Bowl and Pete's Pile.

Sounds like you and B-rock need to share a tent. You can join his crew of rigid friends.

I'll be sure to note that its not an "on-site" when spraying.

I agree with allison, er I mean Iain. Helmets are for wusses.