Alex

Colchuck via Colchuck Glacier is a pretty commonly climbed overnight winter route

I agree with all of you, BD screws are much less useful here than Smileys or the "old" BD screws that had much larger (albeit differently aligned) hangers. Dru, I actually never realized that about vertical front points! I read your post and was like, "well, of course!".

The Cable at Banks Lake, when its formed. Other than that, most of the West Coast is lead-centric, very little TR-able ice at any grade. You need to go to Banff to warm up so you can climb ice around here

My advice: don't even think of getting them. You're friend should learn how to ice climb first before buying this (or any) type of specialized gear. That means - no ERGOnomic tools, no "fruit boots" (which is what real ice climbers call these).

I'll be up in the area, maybe i see you foo's Fri.

This did not happen, and I have not been able to get my Viper Fangs onto my Cobras with the same ease as I got them on my Prophets. You have to file so much plastic down, it makes the whole thing pretty suspect.

ROFL!

The Aztar is a slightly shorter tool than the quark, which accounts for some of the weight difference.

sounds like a job for a sled in a month from now!

As a day hike: Lake Serene near Index. Little chance of snow, just AMAZING view of Index peaks, short enough hike for even my parents!

just flippin' ya shit. "leashless" doesnt necessarily mean "ergo"! why not use the older style android leashes?

Lyle, what you're not climbing leashless????

see http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/413255/page/0/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1

too expensive

I carry 3 10cm screws and 2 17cm TI screws for some routes where I think I might encounter ice. Perhaps a 13cm. For well known "real" ice routes such as Triple Couloirs in well-iced conditions I might carry more quantity.

Translation: KaskadskyjKozak - "I thought I gave you syphillis you butt licking Pole??" scott_harpell - "Bob! I thought >I< was the one. Isnt that what you told me? What about our tryst tomorrow? Please show up." KaskadskyjKozak - "Wait your turn, man, wait your damn turn!"

Both my grandfathers were WWII vets, both fought for the NAZIs in fact, one was a POW who detained in the US for many years - he loved the US! I am not ashamed of them, or of my views, so stuff it up your ass

Taken in another context, can you can see how stupid your argument sounds? No one lives in a vacuum. We are all responsible.

Netherlands might be flat, but I hear the Alps arent. Europe is small, yeah you wont be doing "weekends to Leavenworth", but week long trips to Cham make up for it. I've been considering a move to the Czech Republic, France, or Switerland. My own country is too damn expensive compared to Czech, and I think the job prospects in CS are about the same.

enem, dave burdicks trip report has some pics of the current conditions on the approach, specifically one shot taken from the Roush Cr divide. my experience with the approach route and (count em!) 3 trips up that way in November(s) is that its a terrible approach to ski until everything is completely buried...April, May. You break out of the trees at a pretty low elevation, so the snow wont fill in the boulderfields for a long time (perhaps Feb?). Its pretty steep going all the way up, so skinning is pretty tough until after the Roush Cr divide (the first 4000 elevation gain) if you dont have smooth filled in slopes to deal with

kind of like, oh... a dictator? the day may one day arrive when Dem senators and house members are quietly led out of Congress by red-armed GOP colleagues never to be seen or heard from again i wouldnt doubt it, shit, God's on W's side!

What bill said. There arent any road issues, late may is already pretty "late" for Northern Cali. The road goes to 7000 ft elevation for the Av Gulch route, which seems high for us here, but its pretty arid and warm there near Shasta, shouldt be an issue.

I remember Crater Lake as awesome BC skiing, but little in the way of ice.

bump, for anyone interested