Alex

Ade, I tried this approach, but it doesnt seem to be working. Oh sure I have learned valubale skills like pilfering chocolate treats from my group admin, but I am only climbing 2 days a week. When I consulted the NOLSe scale of climberdom, I realized to my chagrin that I was not actually a climber!!?!??! Please help! Thanks, Alex

Clintoris, yes, a 7.5 -8.5 mm works fine for Rainier.

When is your spring break? Even in a stellar year, the ice in Washington is fast disappearing by the last week of Feb or first week of March. This is not a stellar year. The ice in Banff typically lasts about 2 weeks longer: third week or March or so is typically the end of the season. I would suggest you head there if you have 2 weeks of time, and your spring break is in March. Cheers, Alex

The BBS was recently upgraded, and the upgrade nuked some tweaks. I'll alert Tim to put the "Post TR" functionality back.

After 2 weeks of stellar weather in the middle of Feb, and another stellar week forecast, I am starting to "get all Californian" and hang out drinking beer on the weekends, knowing that the weather will be perfect anytime I want to go climbing. Contemplating the drought conditions and wildfires we're going to have this summer if we don't get some snow soon, however, isnt that fun.

Seems like the numbers have held really steady since 1990 system wide. Do you have (or can point to) visitor stats more finely grained, like for Mt Rainier vs NOCA?

Give the South Cascades Glacier a few more years.

retired, I've looked at that pitch, pucker factor for sure!

If you were at the slot I think you were at, that slot is not the typical route through the cliff (though it looks "hardman" and exactly what Twight would do!). To breach the Cliff, you have to traverse up and left around an exposed corner to a really long fairly low-angle but calf-burning ramp that leads to the top of the Steele Cliff. But I only was on the route Feb 2003(!!), so conditions might be a little different this year. Maybe this will help: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post141824 Good job in getting down in 1 peice! Alex

You wont get very far arguing your case if you were doing 120 KM/h. Since 120KM/h does in fact equal around 80mph. Alex

Your primary consideration will be the cold and avalache hazard: it can be really really cold in the Canadian Rockies in winter, and the cold will seriously affect any decisions you make wrt climbing standard mountaineering routes. The av hazard will be probably be unlike anything you've encountered in the PNW. If its warm enough and not activly dumping snow, perhaps the easiest non-technical route logisitically would be the N Glacier route on Athabasca, which is a simple snow and scree slog fairly close to the parking lot, not too terribly av prone. Its short enough for you to manage it in a day, even in winter, however its also a very cold spot (Sunwapta Pass), so dress accordingly!

I still havent heard the definition for "alpine" in this context. I've worn plastics once in the last 5 or so years for alpine climbs and I have done a few winter alpine and ice trips in the Cascades, Lillooet, and Rockies during that time. Its true that plastic boots have their place: on -25'C days in the Rockies, ice climbing for example. However, who said anything about Freneys? I wear Freneys too, and do not recommend them for winter. However, I also wear other boots that I would recommend for winter! Fact is, I made no specific recommmendation did I? I just suggested there are some very worthy options that happen not to be made of plastic that are perfectly suitable for alot of winter and cold weather climbing. There as been alot of discussion specifically on footwear on this site, and it really will come down to personal preference and cash, I am just trying to help someone from plunking down a chunk of money on a decision they might regret if the definition of "alpine" is something like the N F Chair, Hood, Rainier, or any other of our Cascade jewels.

Define "alpine". If you are getting a pair of plastics for climbing in the Cascades, anything in the Cascades, you should reconsider and examine some of the fine alpine climbing oriented leather or psudo-leather boots out there. $.02

Pushing the Limits, Chic Scott

looks like a nice hike anyway, thanks for the update!

totally

I'd be more worried about the hot chick driving the Lexus SUV from Bellevue chatting it up on her cell phone being completely oblivious of your POS Idahoan truck with you in it while she merges into traffic going 60 than any road rage incidents caused by your license plates. Except, your state did vote for Bush...if you have any Bush/Cheney bumper stickers I'd remove them before heading through Seattle!

To those ppl (like layton, Couloir, bunglehead) b#tchin about the quality of service at REI, or EMS, I suggest you politely stuff it up yer butt! Unless you've worked there and have dealt personally with the countless uneducated morons like yourselves that come walking through the doors every day looking for the absolute best deals on gear, or looking to return merchandise that you broke but are unwilling to accept responsibility for - which naturally keeps wages absolutely low - then be happy and understand that the service you get at EMS and REI is just about the best service you will get in retail, period. Take a moment to compare this service with Payless shoes, Walmart, Lowes, or Schucks Auto supply, and you will perhaps gain a new appreciation for sales people who, while they might annoy you from time to time trying to sell you a "membership" , are typically very responsive and available! Alex

how far can I get in a passenger car with AWD? TIA Alex

(Prophets have always come in straight and bent shaft.)

I think your best bet is the Beckey Bible at this point.

yes

talk about low snow year! {edit} its actually too bad you didnt get the weather to keep going, as ICG is a really nice, comfortable moderate route through a really spectacular area! The upper couloir is fairly moderate except for the cornice at the top. But its good you bailed, fumbling around looking for the descent route once you exit the route is difficult enough in good weather. Once the road opens, go back and do the entire route in a day car-to-car, its a great trip done light!

oh nevermind...

If climbing the crux upper pitches of THOS, you still have to rap/walk off the upper pitches somehow, but the common walk off descent for the majority of the route starts where the final bit of WI2 creekbed enters the large upper bowl. From this point there is a flagged and often trampled "donkey trail" through the steep woods climbers right of the route, that leads back down to the river, a couple hundred yards upstream from the small parking area. Its much faster than downclimbing/rapping, takes about 35 min from the top of the lower pitches to the car.