Alex

Scott, there is some stuff on lower and upper town wall at Index that is classically termed "nailing practice". These include the incipient heading seam left of Danas Arch p1. which can be toproped for a good introduction to heads and beaks, and some of the other very similar seams between Davis-Holland and Earwax. On the upper wall right base is the route you and I have partially nailed to Madsens Ledge (originally rated A3 or A3+ on the Cummings Guidebook? Its a good piece of work, remember we did not get up it all the way). If you are looking for wider routes at Index (i.e. larger than beaks) I know Snow White is still commonly nailed (several KBs in a row), but its short and I would suggest you rather try Orc Tower area, or any area at Index that has few/no established free climbs. Even after all these years there is alot of good route potential for 2-3 pitch routes on the lower wall and 4-5 pitch routes on the upper wall. If you are looking for something longer and further afield, not just as practice, there are numerous backcountry wall routes waiting for you. Look me up if you want to get on that "project" you and I were talking about last year!

I didnt know hiking Colorado 14er's counted as "climbing"... seriously, though, what Loren said. The Gib Ledges is std winter trade route on Rainier, you guys should have a fun time. Alex

its called "cleaning"...

You want bolts or natural gear?

OK, I understand. I didnt have any idea that the map was so big, I though it was just an overview map like 8 1/2 by 11 or something produced specifically for the ice festival. If its somethine Lyle is selling, thats a different story, I will just go off the info on bivouac etc. until I can get around to paying the man his due. Alex

I havent seen this ice map and would like to, as the book is 10 years old now and I'd like to check out whats new.... Anyone have a scan they could send me? Alex

I'll readily admit I printed out the Sweet Granite in Renton thread fully intent on driving down there and checking it out..!

Ack! Blasphemer! How can any self-respecting ice climber not know what book?!?! I climbed Gib Wall with Gene Pires a few years back, it was really fun! Not as hard as Weeping Wall, but a really nice 4. We went back to Golden that night, stayed at the hostel, climbed Guiness Gully next morning. I think the Capt Caveman climbed Gib Wall with Beckey a few seasons ago, if I recall? Cheers, Alex

I'll go to Lillooet. PM me if anyone is interested. Alex

I actually drive the 1 to Hope, Coquihalla highway to Kamloops, and the 1 to Golden and to Louise from there. I usually climb the first day in Golden or Field, so I only get to Louise after the first day of climbing, if I am going up the parkway. Sometimes it depends on the weather: I believe the US highways are not maintained as well during snowy weather, and the driving is much slower than the 1, except if Rogers Pass is getting dumped on really hard. The last 4 times I've gone, I've pretty much driven through the night, and the only place the 1 is slow at all is through Salmon Arm on Shuswap Lake. The rest of it is fast. To get to Experts Choice, Gibraltar Wall, or Radium climbs, I would agree Sand Point is probably a little faster. Ultimately I dont think it makes much difference, though

I've done Bellingham to Golden in 7 hours. I consistently go Seattle to Louise in about 10 hours, unless Rogers Pass is a nightmare. Drive at night, not during the day, and you save 2+ hours due to less traffic, less trucks, and less congestion and the border. Banff is really very close, quite reasonable for a 3 day weekend.

Johnathan, you are certainly not the first to notice the good ice potential around Unicorn. The Tatoosh is a climbing gem for its access and wide range of potential... Alex

Thats gross, Ray!

Ray, its an endless job trying to keep up with you. However much I would love to claim any responsibility for any "moderating" around here in the last few months, I can't. Simple fact is, I havent been around, and you can stuff your guesses as to who has it in for you today up your ass! Alex

DEAR GOD! A thread that started as a serious discussion that evolved into spray that evolved into....Beta?? what is the world coming to?

one thing is for sure...this should never be in a route report

that looks fun!

super gaiters solve alot of problems on really wet/warm days volcano slogging. Even without any gaiters, I'd climb in leathers over pastics anyday except dead winter maybe. The Nepal Extreme will be much heavier than the Trango Ice. I remember my Nepal Tops as being surprisingly heavy..as heavy as my plastics in fact. Go with Trango Ice

Erden, best of luck! Keep us in the loop with regular updates via laptop and sat phone modem! Alex

yes its in the guide, tho the pic I've seen of it in the past wasnt as fat as it looks here.

Mountain

lol!

yeah when I went in with Larry he showed me that approach, and I didnt like it as much as mine (the first option in the book). I think erik and I are heading up there soon, will see how the other climbs are doing and maybe flag the approach that comes in from the left of Motherlode. Alex

I had the Bibler I-tent in Alaska and liked it enough for 1, but not for 2. Kelley Cordes had a Fitzroy I think and it was really nice. There is really something to be said about a single wall tent for the windier, higher elev and colder camps. They do pretty well and are pretty quiet. The drawback is you have to be very very careful when shovelling them out (which will be often) as the shovel blade tends to cut the walls pretty easily and then you have a real repair job ahead of you. I also slept in an MEC copy of the Wild Things (Quazar?) tent. It was nice for 2. We almost never cooked in the vestibule. If it was storming out, you just put on your gear and cooked and shovelled at the same time - 2 birds with 1 stone. Alex

Hey Frenches Dome! That place is pretty cool. Yeah, its probably more solid than Smith or Mt Washington, certainly more solid than anything in the Sisters