Alex

quote: Originally posted by allison: There ARE guys out there who meet all of the criteria! Yes, but name the last time you met one of them at Pub Club!

climbholio, Darrington isnt really any better for water ice than the rest of Western Washington. So you'll have to do a bit of a drive to get anything reliable. That said, it isnt a bad place to be either, especially in the summer and fall: lots of long granite rock routes nearby, lots of cool mountains to do. Alex

lots of good points here. climbing is about taking responsibility for yourself, and in posting Anna has, in a way. Anna, I'm glad you came away from it ok. climbing is about finding limits, knowing limits, and transcending them sometimes. I think anna has learned some valuable lessons, and there is little we can offer her that she can't or hasnt figured out already. If you choose to climb again, Anna, you'll do so with a much better understanding of consequences than many of us here. Good luck, Alex

I dont know of anything that has formed, but I plan to use my weekend to check stuff out. maybe even get early season scared..! Probably be heading Pauls way one of the days. One things for sure, you dont need a snowmobile yet to get to the good spots Alex

I want photographic evidence!

Ade and I went up for an unsuccessful go this past weekend. PM/e-mail us for beta if you like.

well shit phil, if you're driving Mowich Lake 3 times on the trip, I can see how you might have problems! Alex

I think it's Tiger mountain? In the lower left corner of Tiger here is a fairly substantial ice wall. Has anyone tried climbing it? Rock fall might be an issue. Its much lower angle and shorter than NF Observation Rock, which is fairly low angle and short to begin with. By the time you do the approach and the climb, and realize how large the ratio of approach/climb is, you look at all that stuff a little further up and think "why bother?" Alex

quote: Originally posted by Bill Gates: This is Bill Gates. I say unto you, try Mt. Baring in the winter! Bill Gates has spoken. I am sorely tempted to create an avatar named Larry Ellison or Scott McNealy right about now...

shit that fingate is almost as big as his head!

good to hear your OK, Stefan! I suggest you read all 1029 posts of the Congressional Debate here on CC.com, MUCH better than Jerry Springer! Cheers, here's to your recovery! Maybe someone from rope-up land can go get your gear this weekend ...? Alex

http://www.genesimmons.com/ holy HOT batman! vs http://www.richardsimmons.com/ Dude, I'd rather be gene simmons any day of the week, look at those babes

ice in beer is gross, but an iced beer at the base of a route waiting for you when you get back to the car, now your talking better yet, hot buttered rum

as you were

Hey Greg the unwritten law is dont accept any beta or info from me it seems. actually it IS written down, in our notes. "Don't accept beta from cavemen." As for Alexus chew the butt still stands. just as long as its not your butt! Also a clue ... try contacting rat for ice climbing info if you have not. He seems like one of the most prolific ice climbers in Leavenworth. As well as a fistfull of others that I dont really know. thanks ray, actually we've been talking to rat for quite some time and yes, he gets out quite a bit! he has done some interesting stuff, too. There are a couple of other guys there too - Jason has 'worth so I am not really in on that loop. Jason and I split responsibilities for areas across the state. So Alex has stuff like Strobach and Banks, while Jason goes after 'worth and Mazama. Honestly, without the division of labor this first edition would be almost too much work for 1 person.

Dude, Bigbird on CNN! Right on!

Hey you asked for 1 photo of dragontail. How do you know the vantages I may have to offer... if I wanted a pic of Asgaard Pass I would have asked! BTW when are you gonna climb triple coolers triple coolers because a single cooler isnt gonna be able to hold the case!

Ray, you offered 1 photograph of Dragontail. Something I replied to you that we needed to go do anyway because we need several different vantage points. This guide would be nothing if it were not for the help others have provided, and we are very happy to receive the help. So kiss it

right on brother bone!

JoshK, if I can offer you some advice, I would say go for it. Take the SE face over the S Ridge, the glacier should be passable still, its very mellow. If anything stops you it will be the moat at the start of the SE Face. It will be burly. How you do on the SE Face dictates whether you climb Torment only, or do the traverse. Take some crampons as there might be spots of ice that high up now, though there isnt much snowmelt on the route itself. If you are fast and start really early you *could* climb most of the traverse the first day. We were not fast enought and didnt start early enough (in August, which should give you a big hint) but could have made real progress if we hadnt gotten shat on. Torment is a great climb any way you cut it, go out and have fun. Alex

oh, re-reading, you are right, I thought they actually did it (knowing wayne, in fact, I was just assumed that had done it )

michael, seems to me Dave Parker is saying he climbed the route you are talking about, in his previous post

thanks all

anyone been to the North side of the mountain recently?

Mike, mattp, while the weather sucked downstate, it didnt rain in the Adirondacks until Sunday afternoon. got completely worked on a classic 5.8 crack at Chapel Pond on Fri, but all-in-all a great weekend to see the leaves! Adirondack Autumn, from the summit of Pok-O-Moonshine Craig Meisner climbs the 5th pitch of the classic Regular Route with Cave finish on Chapel Pond slab Pok-O-Moonshine Alex leads a classic 5.8 on the Creature Wall [ 10-15-2002, 01:33 PM: Message edited by: Alex ]