Alex

I am going to Banff Friday. So much for jealous.

There was a conditions post about Bull River and Gib Wall about a week ago on live-the-vision... Alex

I bought one of these bags (I think size L) and its awesome

Its still only Feb. I can't recall the highway opening before late March or even mid-April in recent years...? Considering we sometimes get a large percentage of our snowpack in March, I wager that at 5000 ft at least, the snow levels will increase before it all starts melting.

Perhaps one of the more committing routes in the Rockies these days? http://www.gravsports.com/Ice%20Pages%20Folder/Route%20Descriptions/for_father.htm

I had a pair that also killed my feet. You might have wider feet, in which case Scarpa's last might work for you better...

GeneO, if you buy those, I'll buy your cobras.

the fist 4 years my wife and I tried to climb were really hit and miss. we had some pretty good trips, but many times one or the other of us were not having much fun. we realized that we had very different ideas for what constituted a "fun" time, and different priorities and goals for climbing.... with that realization, we've been more selective about the objectives we invite each other on, and I think our climbing together has been super fun since then..!

Agreed, thanks to Rog and Chad and all the photogs for putting together a great visual feast! Tien Shan looks freakin' awesome!

schweet!

Just a quick conditions report on stuff in the Alpental area. What a gorgeous day Sat was! While there where enough people in the backcountry, everyone seemed to spread out and we didnt see many people all day. Lots of snow! There is about 15-20 feet of snow at the base of the Rap Wall. This is an unusual amount of snow for Feb, as in recent years we have gotten most of our snow pack in March. If we have another wet March, the amount of snow above 4000ft will be dramatic. Lots of old slide activity, but nothing came down on Sat, despite some areas of real significant wind-loading. In the lower valley, just about everything is buried. Flow Reversal is buried. Not Quite a Plum completely buried. Hotline is in, at around 4+. Steep, but short. Bryant Buttress Right (to the immediate right of Hotline) is in at a fun 3+ stemfest. Rap Wall routes have varying amounts of ice on them. As there is so much snow, the first 15-20 feet of these routes is buried. You can touch the draws on the roof of Guru right now from the snow. At least one climber has noted that this makes the spacing of the bolts on at least one route off now, allowing for a potential groundfall. Beware! There is some ice in Great Scott Bowl, too. My partner and I think we did a new route way up in the bowl, on the backside of the ski area, Sat. I need to confirm with a friend who climbed in this area last weekend. Snow conditions were bad in the lower valley, but really nice starting about 1000 ft up for skiing (we were on snowshoes). Lots of skiers, some ice climbers, and some people headed to Chair on Sat. Alex

Some large icefall climbs like the Coleman Headwall are only doable early season. How many August or September ascents of routes like the Coleman Headwall or Klicitat Icefall do you hear about? I've seen photos of the headwall in late season and it looked SCARY. I believe the relatively low number of ascents later in the summer is more due to the Coleman opening up and making life difficult than the climbing on the headwall proper.

might want to consider alternate plans just in case. with the weather its sure to be crowded.

jrs, some Boni Am tune....

i was going to say squamish. Thats funny, I thought you were going to say Ouray...

too bad the French Ridge isnt just a little more rounded...

Sorry, I am assuming anyone who is going to Illumination is doing so with skis and skins. 1500+ vert an hour with skis on below 9000 ft doesnt seem that extreme to me, especially for someone who is seriously trying Yocum. Sure, it might be a harder pace than your average Joe going up Tiger Mountain, but then again if you need 4 hours to get to Illumination you may want to try another route. The real question is, "What Would Colin Do? (WWCD)"

Jarred, decent shape and simulclimbing, I would say something like +2 hours to Illumination +1 hour to base of Yocum across the Reid +6 hours on route to upper Queens Chair YMMV

Manic Nirvana at Smith is not 10c..max 10a. Alex

PP, Cannon is worth going to for Whitney Gilman or one of the other classics, but there is alot more climbing at Cathedral/Whitehorse.

That sucks.

Wow, first A-Rod, now Franconia moves to NY!!!

I've climbed a lot of the routes at NF Pitchoff. Its about a 3 mile ski/hike into the climbs. Most of the routes are like 1-2 easy pitches on mostly NEI 3 or NEI4. Arm and Hammer is a good solo (I did it like 3x in one day back in 1991). Weeping Winds was thin and scary, but might be a good mixed route for you on far-between trad gear....its low angle so not strenuous, just heady. Roaring Brook Falls is nice and good when very cold, but its a bit high volume so be careful. Same with Chapel Pond Slab. Chouinards Gully is pretty fun. You could easily do a romantic weekend to Keene Valley and do alot of pitches close to the road. I found Cascade Pass to have the best access of all the areas. Drive. Park. Don crampons and climb. Of course, you arent a real ADK ice climber until you do Trap Dyke. Alex

I wager we could convert you pretty quick, actually.

I heard this report too. Seems crazy to think that we will see all this change so radically within our lifetimes.