DPS

Aspirin and garlic tablets have worked very well for me. I saw a program on the history channel about the Chosin battle in the Korean war. The battle was in the winter and many of the soldiers suffered severe cold weather injuries. One vet who was interviewed said he has never been able to sleep under blankets since, he gets too hot.

I did Japenese Couloir on Barille last year in early May. I don't remember any variations. You climb up an obvious gulley to a small col, traverse below a rock band, and then up another gulley to the summit snow slopes. It took less than five ours from our camp on the glacier to the summit. We reversed the ascent route using rappels and down climbing. We roped up and belayed two pitches.

Perhaps it is simply a bad photo, but those sure don't look like Forged Friends to me. They look like the old school Friends that are milled.

I know a couple of people who have used a cord that runs from the ski tip to a strap around the upper calf. Supposedly it allows one to lean back. There was a 'Tech Tip' in climbing magazine awhile back describing how to do it.

I think all those radicals should be kept locked up, not running around free.

Hmmm, I'm below average. My share of the national debt is only 12K. What happens if the US defaults on its loans? Will the bond holders start repossing the country's assets? If so I got dibs on a fighter jet.

I own an Integral Designs MK1 Lite and have used a Bibler I tent. They seem to be very comparable in size, weight, setup and quality. One nice thing about the ID tents is that they can be custom ordered to have different features.

Some land-use agencies may require insurance before they issue permits to guide on their land. Other than that I don't believe there are any other agencies that legally require one to have insurance. I am sure Scot'teryx would know all the ins and outs as he recently started a guide company.

When I picked up the Grivel Evolution in a store I immediately thought it would be perfect for Liberty Ridge, Coleman Headwall, NR Baker and the like. My personal preferance would be to bring a more substantial second tool than the Grivel 3rd tool. I did Lib Ridge on July 15th, (the last day of free climbing on Rainier) and there was one pitch of hard ice climbing out of Thumb Rock and hard ice on a traverse below the Black Pyramid and about 500 feet of hard ice below Liberty Cap. I think the Evo would have done quite well for those conditions. In the spring I would guess there will be less hard ice and more snow.

The route was skied on tele gear in march 2000.

But how was the music?

I've descended Gib Ledges in winter. Twice. It was really no big deal. The exit gulley was not particularly steep as I recall. It was cold when we returned so we did not experience any rockfall.

I just calculated mine. I am 'overweight' (25.4). I guess running 50 miles a week,lifting weights and climbing and skiing on the weekends is just not doing it. I hope I don't drop dead of a heart attack.

Hmmm, seems like a good deal to me. Some old furniture for brand new expensive climbing gear.

Once your friend tries the appoach (and deproach) to Colchuck Lake on skis he may see the value in snow shoes.

jja: I did the Early Winters Couloir as a winter mixed route. This is the east facing gulley between the North and South Early Winter Spires. We descended the decent route by plunge stepping. The decent route would not be much of a challenge as a climb.

Since this guy is so smart, he should get himself a job working at the social studies factory. That's what his degree is in, isn't it? Just from looking at his photo I would assume he came off as an arrogant jackass. Who wants to hire an arrogant jackass. Anyone who states membership into Mensa as being a qualification clearly has not done anything worthwhile to speak of.

Nice trip report. I wonder when Triple Couloirs will be skied, assuming it has not already been skiied.

Funny. One of the hardest climbers I ever met is a guy named Dave Moroles. His clothes are held together by copious amounts of duct tape, and I don't think he owns anything brand name.

May I have the Lowe Alpine Summit pack and the BD skins?

http://www.rei.com/online/store/Search?&storeId=8001&langId=-1&catalogId=40000008001&cat=22000021&link=1&stat=ohq2

Get a 20 degree, Primaloft or Polarguard Delta bag.

My wife and I went XC skiing for the first time last week. We skiied up the Denny Creek road to Snoqualmie Pass and back. Can someone suggest another tour of similar difficulty (lack of steepness) near Snoqualmie Pass, preferably one that does not require a sno-park pass? Thanks.

W from this board has climbed it, he may have some insight. Also it is covered in 50 Classic Climbs In North America. Check this Web site out:http://www.naclassics.com/climbs/huntingt/beta.htm

A local climber and trail runner was relating the story of how he was stalked and confronted by a cougar while running on Tiger Mt. From then on I was worried I would be attacked by a tiger while running on Cougar Mt.