DPS

Ode to Leland Windham?

Does anyone have experience with the Trango Aluminium campons with the front and back straps? I was thinking of getting a pair of aluminium crampons and noticed the Trangos are a couple of ounces lighter than the Stubais and are a bit cheaper with the sale coupon from Marmot.

Obsydian's description matches my memory of the route. We only had three screws though.

Some weekends it is ok to stay home and read a good book. I recommend 'Lamb: The Gospel According to Biff, Christ's Childhood Pal.'

I would like to acknowledge the efforts of all of those involved in this dangerous rescue. It is comforting to know that should any of us be in a similar situation, there are people who we may not even know that will lay it on the line for us. to all those involved.

I had planned to climb Curtis Ridge this weekend. The last forecast I saw on Thursday was favorable. The rain and white out that caught us at Glacier Basin on Saturday was a suprise to me. (My fault for not checking on Friday, but hell, it was beautiful that day.) If these guys drove to the trail head on Thursday and spent the night there, then hiked in on Friday (beautiful weather!) it is entirely plausible they did not get the forecast with bad weather.

Paco and I followed their tracks into Glacier Basin on Saturday hoping to have a go at Curtis Ridge. Then the weather closed it, it was pretty miserable. Cold rain with the cloud ceiling between Glacier Basin and St. Elmo's pass. I had guessed that the tracks were headed towards Lib Ridge. As we turned around I hoped that the party ahead of us was not stuck in the weather. Hopefully all will be ok.

I fell the entire rope length into a crevasse on the upper part of Gib Ledges. I had no idea I was even on a snow bridge when it collapsed.

Mountaineers Dome.

I remember that Darin. I climbed with the guy that was with him when it happened.

What does that fact that he is Jewish have to do with it?

K_Y_L_E outed me. I am really a Chinese Panda illegally living in the US. My only options were the zoo or pretend my fur was a prototype one piece pile suit. I wonder how many climbers have been lost after I ate their bamboo wands. Truth be told those orange leaves at the top taste like plastic.

Panda Bears don't actually have opposable thumbs. They in fact have a highly derived radial sesmoid bone that is used to strip leaves off the bamboo stalks. The Panda's extra 'thumb' has been used as an argument against creationism with the thought that if God created all creatures (rather than evolution) than he would have created the panda with a pefectly working thumb, rather than a mutated wrist bone. Oh wait, I'm sorry, I thought I was catbirdseat for a minute there. Never mind.

I completely agree with this. Last time I was at mountaineers dome I just piled up all the packs that were left at the base should I crater from the intimidating 5.6 crack. Luckily I stuck the difficult opening sequence and did not test the system.

Various sized slings and perlon with knots for jamming into cracks.

When I stood up on top of point Success the wind knocked me head over heels and I had to self arrest to keep from getting blown back down the route. I count that trip among my favorite on Rainier and can now proudly boast that I have stood on all three of Rainier's 'summits'; Liberty Cap, Point Success, and Columbia Crest.

Has anyone made an approach from White River over St Elmo's pass yet this season? I am particularly curious about snow conditions and if floatation was found to be useful. Thanks

What willstrickland said.

I have a SARC that I had built with the Zero SARC hip belt. I had it built as simply as possible with the lightest fabric he offered and its snaffle proof. I love it for Alaska, but is a bit much for the Cascades. The Zero SARC would be the shizzle for the Cascades I would think.

I cut it all off. And I bought a 1/2 million dollar house. And I only wear Ralph Lauren now.

Mine have lasted maybe three years and are still going strong.

I put them in a pair of boots that were on their last legs and got a couple of more years use out of them. I like them.

No, it was not really a bummer. I am not a peak bagger, I just thoroughly enjoyed a great day with really good friends. There was one pitch of mid fith class. I am absolutely sure Argonaut has been climbed in winter.

We did indeed summit, the WRONG peak. We myopically climbed the east peak and only noticed the true, west summit, from the top. By that time it was late. I say secret climb my ass only because I was surprised that any body else would climb the peak this year, much less three parties in one weekend, so put away the pressed ham, man.

Not only had you been beaten by those two you mentioned, but we beat those guys by a day. Secret climb my ass. And yes, it is a reasonable day climb, especially after someone has but in a boot path and fixed new rappel anchors.