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DPS

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Everything posted by DPS

  1. Glad to hear your surgery went well.
  2. I bailed from the top of the first bolt ladder in a snow storm with a single 60 meter rope. Left creative anchors like jammed knots and the like.
  3. Even thought I have been back in that way a half dozen times, I still wind up in the boulder field on the way in every time.
  4. Allsop in bellingham. Makes skis, bikes, bike carriers etc.
  5. DPS

    Whoo Hoo!!

    Nice job Paco!
  6. You say that like its a bad thing. Maybe give Colin a try?
  7. Mommy make the bad mountain stop!
  8. I have to agree with you Fairweather, the press was in no small measure responsible for the country's realization of how poorly the war was going. I'm not sure what you mean by "premature", do you mean before the US was able to take control of the vital American business interests (oil, rubber, tin) that the war was actually started over? Pentagon papers clearly stated that was the objective of the war. Leaders sold it to the country under the guise of fighting communism.
  9. Devils Lake
  10. My mother is a librarian and the library frequently gets unsolicited submissions from the public. One such item was a video made by Steve Marts (I think) of the Brothers Skoog doing a first ascent of Golden Horn. The boys made belays consisting of a single slung stopper and the like. Not sure if this was standard for the era or if the Brothers Skoog were light and fast before it became popular.
  11. I have done the Torment part and the Forbidden part, but not the connecting ridge between the two. I found the Torment part to be significantly more difficult than the West Ridge of Forbidden. I would personally not skimp too much on the rock pro, I recall the rock on Torment being kinda funky in places and did not see a lot of natural features to sling. As for the snow sections, Colin Haley said a second tool would have been nice. To my way of thinking that would suggesting bringing a picket.
  12. I noticed at Exit 32 there is a short 5.7 crack that terminates at a bolt anchor half way up the crag. The crack protects beautifully with gear. Last time I was there I found two fat, new bolts, and damn it if I didn't clip them. Shame on me.
  13. There is a McHale on sale on the Mountaineers board for $35.00: ~3500 ci McHale Pack, with removable side pockets. Good fit for someone about 5'8" to 5'9" with average torso. Old but in good condition (what do you expect from a McHale?); new waistbelt put on a couple of years ago. Asking $35. E-mail me at khs0337@aol.com
  14. The photographers might have been the Hinmans.
  15. DPS

    Dragontail rock?

    MVS: Check your hotmail.
  16. Steering the thread back to the original topic I am reminded of a certain well known and prolific route developer who self published a number of guidebooks. Another guide book author published the same routes in his own guide book. The first guide book author threatened to take action for plagerism of his book. The second author claimed he visited the area, spoke with the locals, climbed the routes and merely reported the information he had gleaned first hand. The catch is, some of the routes existed only in the first guidebook! The route developer/author had not installed the bolts, but knew he would eventually so he published the routes before he developed them.
  17. Has anbody climbed the Park or Boulder Glacier Headwall routes on Mt Baker? What is your opinion? Enjoyable? How is the approach? Thanks.
  18. DPS

    Route conditions

    5 parties. Bring 11 packets of gu.
  19. Lambone and AlpinFox are correct. There are a lot of far more difficult routes, but Liberty Ridge is one of the harder commonly done routes. Curtis Ridge, Willis Wall, Sunset Ampitheatre Headwall, Ptarmigan Ridge are all significantly more difficult than LR.
  20. DPS

    Powerful Gore Speech

    Uh, dps, a Democratic President sent us to Nam, a Democratic President escalated the war there (meanwhile trying to convince the American people that he was doing just the opposite), but a Republican was in office when we finally got out. So, you might be slightly mistaken. You are confusing liberal with democrat. Ending the war in Viet Nam was always a liberal idea. Starting and continuing the war was a conservative, pro business (oil, tin, rubber) idea.
  21. DPS

    Dannyism?

    I did parking lot to the meadow below the haystack with 45 lbs in 1 hr 30 minutes so 1:45 seems reasonable. My fastest car to car time was 75 minutes (once again Twight style, avoiding the summit). I would also believe his pack was lighter than 60 lbs. That is a weight bandied about quite a bit and I really doubt many people have actually weighed their packs. The 38 minute record was set by Uli Steidl, 4 or 5 time winner of the Seattle Marathon and a bad ass trail runner to boot.
  22. Is that the Justin who used to live in Bellingham and has blond hair? Maried to Angel LeGois?
  23. DPS

    Powerful Gore Speech

    Other than the fact that GW is the worst, absolute worst president we have had in my life time, I don't see any real differences between Kerry and Bush. They will both continue to perpetuate enormous military spending while ignoring all manner of social problems. Jobs will continue to go overseas. The government will remain in the back pocket of big business. It is truly unfortunate that voters are not given a real choice. I see the term liberal used by the right wing as if it were perjorative. Civil rights, the environment, public education, ending the war in Viet Nam, impeaching Nixon, giving 18 year olds, blacks and women the right to vote were all liberal ideas.
  24. How about that flaring chimney thing 'The Lizard'? at Index on GNS? That seems easier for shorter people.
  25. DPS

    What a Man

    I'm sticking with Leland.
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