DPS

Hugh Banner brass offset nuts cover the same sizes as RPs, but have a shape that makes placements far more secure and versatile than the RPs. They aren't cheap though, like 13.50 a pop. The smallest size Black Diamond Stoppers fit medium RP placements, but their shape does not seem to place well.

I am saying my hair is blond, not grey, has never been grey and will never be grey. It will all have fallen out far before then.

Dan Larson, First off, who do you think you are to say the route is out of condition? This is the sort of attitude that makes me seethe. 'Well the NPS said it was out of shape so it must be so.' Reverse sandbagging is what I call it and what it is is lesser climbers making excuses for their shortcomings. Second of all, I have no grey hair.

>I soloed to Camp Muir last weekend and overheard >(from a very well equipped climber, he had >several camalots) that Liberty Ridge is out for >the season. If you inisist on climbing >the "death route" this season, take a GPS and 10 >essentials, you will be ok. Don't forget your >permit and blue bag. Makes me almost want to climb it again.

I suppose it all boils down to one's idea of what good conditons are. I encounted very serious rock fall below the Thumb but excellent ice above. If one wants to kick steps up the route, earlier is for sure better. [ 07-18-2002, 09:00 AM: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ]

I climbed it July 15th during an average snow year and had excellent conditions top to bottom. As this is a greater than average snow year, I would expect conditions to remain decent into at least late July this year. Have either Rod X or Dan L been on the route recently (as in the last week or two)? This is the sort of thing I see that bothers me. People making blanket statements without actual knowledge.

A friend on Silverstar took this photo a couple of weekends ago while I was on Lib Crack. http://www.alpenthyme.org/alp/silverstar/lbgroup.jpg

A week and a half ago we encountered no bugs. There was still a lot of snow at that time.

Just once I would like to climb a route that will never be skied. Oh wait, I've done Godzilla. Ski that you freak!

South Early Winter Spire, East Buttress Direct, North Early Winter Spire, NW Corner Burgandy Spire, North Face

Texplorer, To answer your question, it goes clean at C2, completely hammerless. Some of those bashies have seen better days, though, so it might not be a bad idea to bring some larger ones and the appropriate acoutrements.

I was on Lib Crack last Sunday. The approach is all snow. The route is dry.

2:15. Wilderness permit in hand. Stopped to change into rock shoes and eat a Clif bar.

Thanks Mr. Bronco!

Bobbyperu, Uhhhh, no, I did not have a good time on Girth Pillar. I broke a hold low down and took a bit of a tumble. I did not complete the route. I did go back a couple of weekends ago and retrieve some of my gear that had been rusting and bleaching away for the last four years. The approach pitches from the Ice Cliff glacier are generally sandy and crappy. Approaching via the lower N Ridge would be interesting, but might involve some tricky downclimbng/ rappeling to gain the Pillar.

Has anybody been up the Beckey route on Liberty Bell Lately? Did you need an axe for the gully? Thanks

The Girth Pillar has been climbed since half of it fell off more than four years ago. The Nelson/Lewis line of ascent is still intact. [ 06-27-2002, 10:24 AM: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ]

Yes. Over Memorial day a German fellow skied down it. It was very impressive, he did not even wear skis.

I find the 3.5 to be a very usefull size.

Gary Hemming

Oh wait, Alastair Crowley?

Walter Bonatti?

Has anyone been on the Sulphide Glacier on Shuksan recently? I am curious how the conditions are for skiing. How far would one have to portage the skis before being able to start skinning. Thanks.

Cool!

Thanks Jason. Good to hear you are back in town. Will you be guiding Baker? I will be spending time there this summer as a volunteer Mt Steward. Maybe our paths will cross.