dbb

Doh! [ 03-16-2002: Message edited by: dbb ]

No, no Beck. You've got them all wrong now! Instead of sleeping like a fool on the sidewalk in your tent, you pay them $1/ticket x person and get to show up at 8 sharp with steaming latte in hand. Only then can you rummage over half of a tent and someone's old stanky hiking boots. HEY, don't forget all the fubar'd electronics! I think they'd sell a lot more tickets if they provided and held it at midnight or something.

So John's thread got me thinking about my helmet's viability again. What do people know about UV damage to hard shell plastic helmets? (I have an ecrin roc) The reason I ask is because my pack faded to about 40% of it's original color in alaska, and my helmet usualy sat right next to it. (or on my head )The helmet is also about 5 years old (?). I know of the adage "When in doubt, retire it" but what are other people's opinions? Any ideas on replacements? Anyone used the HB Olympus?

Don't forget Walk on the Wild Side (5.7+). Slab-o-rama. Suposidly the longest route at Josh. (3p) Careful on the first pitch, it seemed like you could ground from the 2nd and 3rd clip.

Looks like the headwall of Outter Space to me!

Check out Dan's gloves in those pictures. Vinylove all the way, baby!

jstreet- Thanks! We haven't yet, but maybe soon... icegrl- from what I hear of that climb, the first pitch sounds simmilar. Scrumble fest!

Trip report from this last beautiful weekend we've had: Ice Climbing - Part 2 www.alpinedave.com [ 03-05-2002: Message edited by: dbb ]

I like the larger sizes (2+) because they work well and are usually *half* the weight of a camalot. They also make good cheap "doubles" for all sizes..

I think twight said "It doesn't have to be fun, to be fun." (I agree too, because it always becomes "fun" once some time passes)

yeah, he said "Squamish like". Look for 30degree unforrested sections.

I'm pretty sure she was so helpful because she wanted some of his "summer sausage".

I have a yellow eTrex and like the simplicity of it. Works awesome on big glaciers when you say "I want to go that way, for 5 miles", and you can set a waypoint out there and follow it. Having the ability to download waypoint directly from TOPO! is cool too, but I think having the ability to download the map is worth it. You have to pay more for that feature, but then you're not limited to only the waypoints you've stuck in.

The infamous kiddy cliff. Climb here long enough and you will get avalanched! eh, mike? You can top rope it, just walk around on climbers right and traverse scary loose snow to the normal anchors above and left of the climb. Last december that route was a good 40 meters long to the belay!

plenty of debris left...

I have a "short cut" way to reshapen your new cobra picks. It goes a little like this: -Swing at thin ice over hard rock. -Don't realize there is rock, and swing harder!-Damit, why are my picks bouncing off pure ice? SWING HARDER!-hmm, maybe there's rock under there. -Spend smaller amount of time sharpening your new steeper drooped pick. Voila!

Anyone know of a point and shoot that lets you push your film? I use a Olympus Stylus for most everything except skiing (and even there too sometimes). I also shoot Provia & Kodak slides but I find that they usually come out too dark/blue. I know that Provia F is a little heavier on the blues, but I think it's more of a need to over-expose. I get great results with the "constant push" of my Cannon Rebel on snow, but I don't like it's size limitations. Thus, it would be nice to have a manual PNS ("point and shoot" for those of you with sick minds ). Probably too much to ask for. Maybe I should just go in for a Yashika...

A couple came with my girlfriend's Verro harness. Thanks for the info!

Hey Dru, you've use these things, right?I've had one lying around for a couple years, and would like to try it out. I usually just clip a wire gate in for racking screws. Seems like the ID would hold the biner in place a little better... How does that little yellow dealy work?Anyone?

Feathered Friends has it. $20

Let me tell you, the "ski crowd" at Alpental calling it "slot" better watch out if the true first ascender finds them! Mr. Hard core who made the first ascent did it in the summer, solo, fist jamming ice/rock in the moat, while out on a "stroll" . (Check out AAJ ~1980, worth the read) <lame pontification >He called it the NW face. What gives with all this "slot" stuff? Wouldn't it be more useful to call it what it is in Beckey? </lame pontification >

first off, agreed capt. This is far too much spray for such an issue. In fact, the people in question are actually out enjoying the sweet skiing. crazyjz, I was actually responding to two different parts of people posts. If you read my statements un-contextually, yes, they seem to contradict themselves. Some clarification: 1)Certainly if someone were looking for Beta telling them the couloir was also called the Slot couloir and there is a description in Martin Volken's Snoqualmie pass guide would be a big help. --> book published mainstream after article was written. 2) when I read the article I come away with the impression that Phil and Greg did the first descent, though they never come out and say that --> well, if it's in a book, you add two and two together. (wait, maybe I should spell things out again for you: doh, it's in a published then maybe they just had fun skiing it.) anyhow, who cares... it's just skiing.

AlpineK, you seem to be talking to someone ("you") as if they've had some input to what you've said. I know that the article in question was written long before the new Volken guide came out (12/1/2001), and that they were in no way implying that they made the first descent. That would be like skiing down from Great Scott bowl and claiming a FD-- everybody goes there. Maybe Couloir didn't want mention of it's other name, who knows. BTW, "Discovering" doesn't actually imply first knowledge (unless that's what you want to read, of course). Definition: To notice or learn, especially by making an effort. The mere fact that it is already written up in a book should give some readers a clue...

When the ice is chandaliered and breakable, TR tons of people is just plain rude. TRing fat plastic ice is great, have at it. But when you start tearing apart a climb to the point where it could collapse in a short warm spell, I'd say there's something wrong. The other way to look at it is where one can easily top rope, someone will. It doesn't matter if lillooet hires ethics police to limit "sensless TR destruction", those climbs will still get bashed up. Therefore, I say fight the crowds until you're good enough to go where it's lead only. ... or just go to the rockies.

granite at banks lake? Are you talking about some other mystery banks lake??? That Coulee is made up of usually chossy Eastern-WA Basalt. There is some nice climbing over there, but not on granite. I think Smoot's guide mentions banks, check it out.