Mr._Blister

Whoa! That's pretty harsh. What did either of them do to deserve that remark?

I did it with Dan and Colin Hayley this summer and the approach really wasn't a big deal. Down one side and up the other. John Sharp

I am a husband and father of two boys. I lost my father to cancer when he was 60 and I was 17. I have been divorced once. And I have no idea what demons cause me to climb. I have tried to give it up twice, but always gove back to it. I wonder sometimes whether I am driven by some kind of character weakness or flaw. Because from a purely analytical standpoint, climbing makes no sense aside from the fresh air and exercise. And those benefits can be obtained without ever leaving the beaten trail. Go figure. Maybe my therapist can figure it out.

Always on the hunt for a vicarious thrill, and having endured another family weekend (actually, it was they who endured having me around),I have to ask: Who climbed what this past beautiful weekend? Spray on, gusy and gals.

Never mind. I read Loren's excellent TR on his website. He and Jens had loads of fun on the route. John

Sounds like you gave it a good try. When Jim, Bob and I downclimbed it, we were a day late coming off the N.E. Rib, tired, hungry and thirsty. It sucked, and was as mentally tedious as it was physically exhausting to face in for so long. The snow was very hard, but not yet reduced to alpine ice. Our aluminum crampons and light-duty axes were sufficient, but did not inspire tremendous confidence, especially at the top. I'm sure it's much more entertaining to climb up than down. Has no one else done this one? John

Anyone climbed this couloir in late season when it is said to be a good alpine ice climb? I've down-climbed it in mid-July one year, but suspect it is in much different shape now. I would hope that it's not being strafed with rocks this late in the year as it was when we came down it. Just trying to get an idea if it's worth the risks that come with any climb of good old J'Berg. Thanks, John Sharp

Sounds pretty much like every other late season on that glacier. Good to know it's still there.

I can't go as my wife needs me around that weekend. Honest. Those who know me know I wouldn't miss a good party. Do you want my margarita recipe or will this be a beer thing? But I know you boys/girls will have fun. Just watchin' certain of you flirt would be worth the price of admission. Ciao, John

As a Bellevue native, I'd be delighted to come. But I can't do it this Friday, and there are no cool bars in Bellevue. John Sharp

GWhiz.

Prozac isn't that good, really. Rather than "it's all good," it's more like "I guess this situation isn't THAT bad; not as bad as I would have thought before going on the Big P, anyway." How's that for a scientific analysis.

S.W.Rib of S. Early Winter Spire. First pitch is 5.8, everything else is easier. Every pitch has 5.2 or above except one. Look at the red Beckey (not the old red one, but the one that came out about five years ago; smooth cover). Great topo. Nelson/Potterfield wrote it up too, but without topo. You won't get lost with Beckey's topo. I promise you'll like it, and not encounter as many people as you would on the Beckey route of L. Bell. John Sharp

I agree with MattP on all counts, and like him frequently travel on glaciers with just one partner. It's a calculated risk. I carry minimal equipment to climb a rope, and have a second set in case my partner needs it (they get it at the car). This assumes a clean fall, consciousness, no severe injury, etc. As for unexpected falls into crevasses on Cascade peaks by experienced climbers, a partner fell very quickly into his arm pits on the N. Face of Shuksan this year and there was no indication at all of any danger prior to the fall. He is very experienced and was as surprised as Colin and I were. It was scary seeing this happen on a big, fairly steep snow face. After that, we roped up. We got lucky. Live and learn. John Sharp

A real nut case with a suit case.