dbb

i would like to see you boulder it. or better yet solo the m9 with your tools and poons?!! changes things eh? I agree, if you'd seen it (or watched someone climb it), it is as burly a 'route' as any sport route around these parts... The rap wall is pretty neat... and if nothing else, good for a pump. The M7s (next to Guru) CascadeClimber on the right hand one:

Krate Crack - .10a, popular handcrack Let's Face It - .10b, fun sport route on Red Wall Where ever I may Roam - .9, Pretty good climbing, just bring on the nubbins!

The guide, the guide, the guide.. if it weren't summer it would've been out months ago! Seriously though, it is about 98% complete. It will be published on a CD and be usable by both PCs and MACs. There will also be a PDF version of the entire guide on the CD so that you can print it out. Good for carrying to the crags and good for those that don't want to look at a computer. Rock on!

Don't you mean one of these??

"Posts: 2", Welcome to the wealth of usefull posts on cc.com Drive over 90 to Cle Ellum, and take 97 over Blewit pass up to highway 2. go back West into town. Take a left on Icicle Creek road, and this will take you to the climbing in Icicle creek canyon. Alternatively, continue West on HW2 until you reach Castle Rock on the right, a couple miles outside of town. The crags are everywhere and obvious in the canyon, but a guidebook would be most helpfull. Also check the web for info on Snow Creek Wall routes like Outer Space, Orbit, Hyperspace, etc... There are a couple shops in Leavenworth that have climbing gear/books. Have fun! Dave

Actually, most of the gear is Fixe ring anchors, or the nice ring-chain setups. Also, that is some serious misinformation about the raps being 25m apart (at least in the Bugs) as most are more like 35-50 m apart. The one notable exception to this would be the Kain route on Bugaboo.

For my own personal sanity I'm just going to believe that you are trolling. I've seen this happen at Marble Canyon in BC. It's total bullshit, but some guides can be so audacious...

Another threat to index: Some hardman has taken a shit in the easy approach chimney to the GNS. All I can say is I wonder how funny they would think it was if someone filled Thin fingers with shit. Maybe they could change the name to "brown fingers" too. But back to the topic, Jens is right, these are serious impairments to accessability for all users. Is there some higher authority in the parks dept. that can be harrassed? I suppose I wouldn't mind paying a fee to have a guy with a gun shoot at the x38 bandits...

Beware the cry of the Mud Falcon!!!!

he's got you there eric I agree though, leave the bolts. That TCU placement before the 1st bolt (the one in the little cracks of the overlap) was pretty manky IMO. If someone does pull them, give Matt and Mark their hangers back... those guys spend enough already putting up quality hardware in d-town.

Dryad- I assume that you're carrying a single line and a 1/2 rope, right? I've tried both methods, (trailing the other and having the leader pull it up after each lead) vs (leading double rope technique w/ more than just 1/2 ropes), and used them both on the West Buttress of Exfo. (which I assume is why you asked) I'd say that the leader pulling up the "trail" rope can be problematic from it hanging up on flakes and trees and whatnot. However, it is easier rope management wise. Still, I'd prefer to use both in the belay system. (This might be a bit heavy for the leader w/ two fat 11mms though) I like the extra redundancy, the option to use double rope technique, as well as one less step to do before the second starts moving. On strait up stuff, just clip the single line and go, but on pitches like the west butt's 3rd pitch, you go way left off the belay and then back right, so it makes sense to use doubles to reduce the drag.

That's right, there are two gas range tops run by a propane tank, so no need for a stove if you stay in the hut. You can also pay for the hut by credit card, so no need to carry exact change. See ya there!

Microwaves? At least not last September they didn't. However, it *may just be possible* to boil water on one of the 8 propane stove top burners in the hut..

Thanks Wayne... Just glad you guys had fun and knocked that thing off thing, I got some good ridge climbing in that weekend anyhow. Nice freakin work!

I agree, in general people should go to the top of the dome. I did on my first trip up there and it adds ~2 pitches of nice slab climbing which, along with summitting, makes the overall climb have a different and more alpine feel. The West Slabs descent was great (relatively speaking), especially with Westward Ho's anchors, and like you say, it puts you right back at your packs. Our lame excuse? We bailed off early due to the late start... hopefully my womanhood is still intact

We actually had a good climb in the hot sun, but started after the "rain delay" around 1:30! Pretty neat to watch all that water evaporate in ~30 minutes, but it probably wasn't so neat for you guys. The crux pitch felt really different in its post-flake state. Thanks to whoever excavated the corner and added the bolts to that pitch. We rapped off from the terrace the same way catbirdseat did. Seems like some wacky old route went up there? I noticed several 1/4" bolts, including a ladder coming in and exiting the only hanging rap. Anyone know what that used to be? Regardless, it made for a pretty easy way off on mostly 2 and 3 3/8" bolted anchors. Jacobs ladder may be a nicer way down though, because I assume it has chained anchors (?), where as this was all webbing (thanks catbirdseat) and single rap rings. Exfoliation dome !

That is ridiculous. You want to “warn us” that because they had a problem with your one order the whole company is unreliable??? Please. You were likely just pissed off and wanted to retaliate in a public forum. Besides, why be so upset about gear? It’s not the tools that make a trip work, or make a good climber. This you surely know, from what I’ve heard.

Don't you mean "Littering and... Littering and..." ? Nice pics, meow that looks like a sweet descent!

I do this on my home wall, but only in rock shoes. That guy is pretty bold to be climbing on it w/o a helmet IMO. I'd have a stamp of a black prophet on my forehead if I didn't use one. It is a great workout though, however on a short wall like mine, only being able to traverse gets kind of borning with ice tools. Better to go with the side-of-house option like Loren.

It you have a pass, call them or send in a copy of the pass with the ticket... or just say you were there for religous purposes

I own several grivel products, and generally like them a lot with a few exceptions: Grivel G10 crampons- There are excellent all around crampons especially because the front points are "pointed" like the 2Fs, love the plastic new-matic strap on. my gripe is that they come out of the box so dull that it's difficult to get all the points sharp without taking off a serious amount of metal. I'd imagine the typical market for these is general mountaineering where people are just climbing snow and don't want a razor sharp set of points. Still, it's a lot of work to get a "working pair", especially now that BD is selling a simmilar product that I've heard (always a great qualifier) come sharp out of the box. Rambo Dual pt. crampons - great crampons again, I really like the adjustable heel clip. It is great for fine adjustment between really small leathers and the beefy plastic rands. A good thing to have in this leather craze... However, I don't know why there isn't a simple conversion kit for monopoints. I know you can order a mono point kit that has a special mono front point (used to have that on my old pair), but the dual points are perfectly fine as monos. I climbed on them all last season that way after making some custom spacers. It seems like a 10-15$ bolt and spacer kit would be a real plus (especially in this mono-pt craze). Air tech racing Axe - Havent picked up my old mountain axe since getting this. Totally love it. The only thing I would change (as others have mentioned) is the spike. A nice sharp steel spike to match the head would really round out the tool. I realize that this would add weight, thus making the BD Raven Pro look even better to the "go light" crowd, but I think the added function would make up for it by eliminating the axe's only detraction. 360 screws - Again, great design, and the marketing actually matches the function of the small hanger fitting in small spots. Racking is an issue, especially when mixing with standard hangers, so why not come up with some snazzy racking device esp for the 360? Also, I really like my Mammut Barriovox transciever. I think the fact that it has the best and most versitle harness system out there, and that it's like 1/2 the size and weight of other transcievers, has been lost on the US market. It was also pretty hard to find locally, FF is the only one I found who had em.

There is no shortage of people being secrative about new routes, here or anywhere. I don't think it's all that unusual either. Look at how Strobach was developed. There were years (2-3?) of web reports before he revealed where the ice was. Then when he did, there was a bunch of information already available...

Went back Sunday with Loren and Jens, but the dumping of snow has mostly rotted the ice at that elevation. We did get on a new 3p route though. Pics/TR here: http://students.washington.edu/dbb/ice/ice_climbing4/ice_climbing4.htm Looks like ice season might be coming to a close.

Dru- I climb w/ the 2001 (?) model of the Mixed master as my belay gloves. This was when they made the waterproof layer part of the fleece glove. These gloves are pretty damn thick and the new version I saw at MEC this summer (which has a gore-tex shell now) is even thicker and more expensive. I tend to pump out even following in these gloves because of their thickness, but if it's cold out.. They sure are durable though, I seam sealed the seams and nixwaxed the palms and they've been taking rappels, belays and screws for two seasons now. look almost like new too. I also tried the MEC "Glacier glove" this year, which is a BD Dry-tool looking glove made with Powershield (I think). Not bad for a thin leading glove at $32 CDN, but the leather on the palm/fingers is SO thin that it started tearing off the finger tips on the first use. IF they put a little thicker leather on these they'd be sweet gloves.. Also, the Vinylove gloves are rubber with a synthetic lining, not neoprene... sort of like alaskan grade dishwashers gloves.

Congrats colin! 2 days? you guys are animals!