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dbb

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Everything posted by dbb

  1. I bet in the 30's not one person believed the guy to lead most of the Eiger Nordwand would live to 98 years!
  2. nice darin, looks like fun!
  3. stopped making "energy to go" I know, but they still sell the same sort of bar under a different name with different "flavours" as you say. right? eh!?
  4. GREAT link lowell. all those glacier comparison shots are amazing
  5. don't forget that you need to go all thay way for sunripe fruit bars no less!
  6. my name is beldar, we are from france
  7. ice in hyalite canyon. right off the road, assuming you can get to the parking lot!
  8. So to take stock, that's roughly 8 people who would buy a pair outright if Grivel just offered the pick for sale. That's roughly $2000 in retail sales (not to mention the $1000 in maybes). Assume grivel nets something like 30-40% (??) of that, that's $6-800. Why not just skip the risk and cost of distributing and put a note up on your website saying picks can be ordered right from Grivel? If $800 can't get it up on the website, you need to fire Twight as your webmaster
  9. dbb

    Made it!

    Sweet! Glad to hear you made it across the globe with u and all your stuff in once piece. Pour a little banna beer out for your 206 homiez. hope things go well on your "trip to the clinic"
  10. Perhaps you've replaced the adjustable webbing on your easy daisies to something stronger? I've talked a guy who took a daisy fall onto his easy daisy and had it snap. Do the wife a favor and tie in full strength at the belay but this doesn't really apply to the aiders, as it seems unlikely that you'd shockloads your aiders. The one thing I would imagine is that extending your aiders all the time on a big wall would be a fat pain in the ass. The adjustable daisies I use (yates & metolious) are kind of a pain to be extending after each move. but who knows, maybe it's easier with em on your feet?
  11. I think the solid steel shaft on the monsters will outlast many of us...
  12. Also, NOLSe, did you say you had some system you used w/ your leashless tools to keep from dropping them down the whole pitch. might be a good idea with n00bs like us.
  13. Tues/Wed (Feb 1/2) next week? Maybe Fromage can bring his new borrowed toys. The place I'm thinking of is just beyond Issaquah a ways on SR 900 on the right. Choss heap crag, has some bolts, but you can walk around. might be kind of tall though, can't remember. what I do remember is being the attendant on a litter practice there once... softball sized rock came off the top and exploded 12" above the patient's head. anyone know what it's called or if people would care if it got scratched up? As I recall there seemed to be as much moss as rock.
  14. I'm in. there is that chossy place out on SR900...
  15. I will buy a pair when there is an extra pick available. that way I'd feel free to really torque and hammer on 'em without worrying about trashing $150. (Even if the bolt threads are mushroomed over--I don't have issues with hacksaws)
  16. dang, that's the road to the istup creek TH right? That's a cool little windy road through the old growth. it was already in kind of rough shape, but looks like it's done for good now.
  17. I agree that I would prefer to buy a tool that has a replacable pick even if it is so burly it'll last me years. Like you said, less than new tool cost is still less than new tool cost. however, my guess is that Grivel is banking on the fact that in 2-5 years (or whatever) when you've trashed the picks on your monsters, you'll want to buy the newest and greatest in leashless tools which, by then, will not be the monsters. still, seems like a good price for the drytool dedicated freak.
  18. Kiddie cliff: Couldn't find a picture but the easy WI2/3 above source lake on the summer approach for the tooth sounds like what you were on? Big lone tree at the top?
  19. dbb

    Mushrooms

    funny how in that ad for the a majorly arc terryx sponsored looking event, there is a picture of a guy wearing the most recognizable Marmot jacket ever...
  20. I yanked and pried until I heard a crack maybe I can get Layton to yank on it harder, he doesn't have a gf right?
  21. 2004 Quark Review Thougt I'd give a review of these as I started climbing on them this season (coming from BD Black Prophets rubber shaft model). The Quark overall is a fantastic tool, and I don't think they've changed a lot in the 2004. Great clearance leads to fantastic hooking capability and a snappy swing. Beautiful 3mm picks that don't need sharpening often and bite into the ice perfectly w/o any mods. Pretty standard stuff for modern tools. The pinky rest that they added for leashless climbing is quite nice, and I went leashless on moderates and top ropes easily with these tools. If I were to go leashless often, I would add some sort of pinky rest for matching higher on the shaft. The tools plunge in the alpine okay with the pinky rest on. Pretty akward though, wish I could figure out how to take them off for alpine—it's not entirely obbious. The tools are pretty damp too, which is a compliment coming from any carbon fiber tool user... something us coast climbers will enjoy as I tend to hit rock full force enough. The leashes that comes stock on these are an android-like clippable leash. Different from earlier models, the attachment point is in the middle of the shaft (instead of by the head). The clipper system is good. Getting in and out is a little more difficult than the android but if I didn't own androids already, I'd probably continue using the clipper. Having nothing but a bolt sticking out of the shaft while going leashless is nice too. With the standard rigging of the clipper leash it is possible to grab the head of the tool without unclipping, however this also means that you have a long tail on the clipper its self. Flipping the clip up into my fingers isn't too bad, but I prefer my androids shorter length. This would not be adjustable on the Quark unless you drilled another hole lower down in the shaft. Another drawback to the clipper system is that the cuff, while having significantly more padding than the android, doesn't have a grippy surface where the cuff touches your glove. This means that when placing screws the cuff gets all spun around on your wrist. Comparisons to other tools I've used: Viper: Quark head feels slightly heavier, but has more clearance. As a result of clearance, the quark has less reach/is shorter (both small distances though). Viper feels like it has a smaller diameter grip. Quark does not have the same flex that the viper gets when really yarding on it. Viper android attachment can be made by drilling another hole in the quark. Cobras: Quark has significantly lighter head and much more clearance. Not as damp, but who is? Better picks for hooking and longevity for sure on the quark. Quark obviously has a much smaller diameter grip. Rage: Again, much much lighter head in the Quark and more clearance. BD Black Prophets: Prophets have heavier head, bigger grip, are more damp, but are not a clearance tool. Light Machine: Both have about the same clearance. The head (without extra weight) on the light machine is a bit lighter, but not much. The stock pinky rest on the light machine is not as good as the new quark, but would plunge much better in the alpine. Grip size is about the same with the grivel being slightly smaller.
  22. I bought the barryvox for a few reasons: - ability to hear analog beeps and follow digital arrows (greater range) - it is/was the smallest and lightest beacon out there - great harness system - comes w/ 15 owners manuals in different languages (definite bonus here folks)
  23. Saw some Atomic TM:18s at second ascent the other day. They were 190s but super cheap at $120. They had a few other pairs for under $200 as well. Also, check out www.proctorjones.com they've got great (2005) skis on discount with free shipping and no tax. call them up for exact inventory, as the website inventory is off.
  24. check PMs
  25. don't let it crawl all over you and bite ya J. I know the feelin'... just hope they don't have the colin-factor in em today so you can suffer again next weekend.
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