JasonG

Trip: Mount Angeles - Middle Peak East Gullies Trip Date: 02/03/2024 Trip Report: Decades ago, when I first started climbing, I would head over in the winter to scramble around on Mt. Angeles. The road is open all winter, the peak is close to the road, and the views grand from such an elevation at the edge of the range. Somehow though, I stopped going, seduced by harder, longer and higher winter objectives. But now that I am in my "mature mountaineer" phase some 22 years later, I went back with @cfire and @Kit (also in their mature climbing phase) for a civilized winter's outing. The weather wasn't quite as nice as on some of my earlier forays, and maybe the east gullies seemed shorter and less steep, but the charm of Angeles in winter remains. I'll try not wait another twenty years before I return! The road to hurricane ridge: The east gullies! @cfire getting to a narrow section @Kit topping out on the steeper section: Traversing the ridge to the main summit: Coming up a step in the ridge towards the main summit: More traversing: Cumbre! @Kit showing his pleasure at the views: Downclimbing to corkscrew around the summit to the SW and off: Almost off the steeper ground and back to mellow forest on the SW side of the summit: Gear Notes: Axe, crampons, helmet, 2nd tool handy if the gullies are icy Approach Notes: Switchback trail to ridge, up gullies to middle peak, traverse ridge to main summit and off the west side. Wrap around south side to hurricane ridge trail back to switchback trail.

Hold on a sec. I'm old, but not that old!

Glad you guys made it out safe @AlexC192! Sounded like quite an adventure, and very close to disaster. A tip from an old guy- when in doubt, it is usually best to go with the walk off (you were right to not bring skis up a route at the edge of your ability). Too many accidents happen on the descent when people are tired, mistakes compound, and darkness confuses things. And having just "skied" down from Yak yesterday to the highway, you def. didn't want to do that after a long day and in the dark! Lots of cliffs, brush, tight trees and mostly walking downhill after a few hundred feet of survival skiing at the top. The snow conditions on the south side of Yak are even worse that what found on the North side (we came up that way to climber's left of your line). Good luck on your alpine apprenticeship! And, if you don't already back up/extend your rap setup, please do. Lots of good tips at the parent site to that link too....

I have been using my phone and Gaia for 6 years or so and that does the trick. Way better than any GPS I've ever used, and I am already carrying it! People also really like CalTopo app.

So great!! What a run you have been on of late. I was looking up at the hills Saturday, wishing I was up on the crest. Good on you for making it happen!

All of those Enchantments routes come in their best shape with repeated melt/freeze. Otherwise it is mostly just scratching around on cold snow and dry rock.....so it will all depend on the temps. Early March is typically pretty cold up high, even on a year like this so I wouldn't think that you'll find much in great climbing shape. That said, all will generally be climbable with the right weather and avy conditions. The good news is that if climbing conditions aren't great, ski conditions usually are a lot better, so maybe look at what is in store right before your trip and plan accordingly. And, if you are casting about all over the Western US, that is another story. I am sure you can probably find something, somewhere to climb. But I only really know our backyard....

I can loan you mine @geosean!

So you could drive all the way to the TH @Michael Telstad?!

Wow! That looks high quality. Great photos! How far could you drive up Glacier Creek road? Did you ski up the summer trail(ish)?

Woohoooo! Warrior with @olyclimber!

Which one??

And you still can @Steve McGee: https://www.chesslerbooks.com/item/10797-mountain-review-magazine-back-issues-4-8-1993-1994.asp I just ordered a couple, thanks for bumping this!

I am 180% behind this renewal of the cc.com battle cage!

This is amazing! What cool stuff are you working up now @dan_e? And, for the record, @Bronco is very reasonable when it comes to licensing rates.

Indeed. It was vibrating pretty noticeably as I carefully kicked my way down. Hard to see in the photo, but it was both quite thin and quite narrow. She was tough!

You are correct, thanks!

Great to see! I'll have to organize another one on the north end soon. Looks like few turns to be had going into next week.

I climbed the Pride Gl. on Kyes wither her and @Phil K many moons ago! I didn't realize she was on here.... And wow, didn't realize it has been 16 years since she passed.

@dberdinka wins the Squiggle Gold this past Saturday.:

I have been checked for a permit by NPS Ranger Kevork at Ouzel lake. He came in from Canada, on foot, just like me. I have told border patrol that I have gone in and out via foot and they just shrug. I am sure you can find an uptight one that may give you a hard time, but I have yet to have it happen in doing it several times this way. Before the road washed out, I would go into north end of Ross lake once or twice a year via the same way (not officially crossing border). Nobody seems to care on either side of border when I relay where I have been or where I am going. And so I go with honesty, which my mom said is always the best policy.

Ohhh....need to find the other!

Thanks @Bronco! Commented tonight.... Also good to see Kurt fighting the good fight still.

Slated to reopen in April!

What.....the ....hell??!! Totally incredible. Automatic elevation to "Best of cc.com"! WELL DONE GENTS!

I guess maybe 2024 will have some pow pow? Today was a reminder that maybe skiing is still pretty fun, no matter what the season has been thus far.... A discerning eye will pick out @dberdinka and @Matt_Alford!