JasonG

oh man

Wow, blast from the past @Phil K!!

So awesome! The old wisdom was that the glacier got hard late season, but maybe that is changing as the ice retreats? I have to admit that this is one of my favorite NCNP climbs so it is tempting to go back. But that is a looooooong walk now!!! (I was lucky and climbed prior to the washout in 2003)

This looks really cool!

Trip: Mount Webb and MacDonald Peak - Standards Trip Date: 08/05/2023 Trip Report: The Chilliwack is not far from the North Sound. I once knew this, but sort of forgot it over the years. Thanks to @geosean, I now know it once again. We were casting about last week for day trip ideas and he suggested Lindeman. I countered with Rexford, and we settled on Mount Webb and MacDonald Peak after taking a look at the forecast for afternoon thunderstorm (didn't happen, but oh well). Both of these peaks are very straightforward Class 2/3 rambles from a good trail and easy to reach trailhead (2wd, paved nearly the entire way). But make sure you have a good breakfast and get a decently early start- it is around 6k vert and 16 miles to tag both of them (my legs are sore today but @geosean is probably running a 10k to cool down). The views, however, are quite good, and would be even better without the smoke that sullied our day. A bonus, for me, was getting a few ideas for new peaks to climb. I will be back! Chilliwack Lake near the start of the trail: Our pal Jim beat us to the summit of MacDonald: NF of Lindeman from MacDonald: The one, the only @geosean on top of MacDonald: NE face of Rexford with Slesse behind: @geosean on summit of Webb: Heading down Webb: Chilliwack Lake again from the bridge over the outlet. We watch returning adult sockeye (note gillnet in the lake) under the bridge for a bit on the return. Cool to see! Gear Notes: Nothing beyond hiking gear needed after snow melts Approach Notes: Radium Lake trail from Chilliwack lake, and then up!

Yes it was! It definitely got my attention. And yes, let's test that shoulder out in September!

Trip: Graywolf Ridge to Walkinshaw - Standard Trip Date: 07/16/2023 Trip Report: When it looks like a hot and hazy weekend, I often catch myself looking west to the Olympics. If the Cascades are baking and smokey, the Olympics can often be a good deal cooler and clearer. Such was the case a couple weekends ago when I was casting about for solo trip options for a couple days. After reviewing a too warm (for me) forecast for the North Cascades, I settled on a traverse of Graywolf ridge to Walkinshaw. My brother, @ZakG , signed on last minute, gear considerations and meeting time discussed, and we met early on a Saturday to catch the Edmonds ferry to Kingston. The hike up to Baldy was uneventful, if steep, warm and muggy. We lunched on the lower false summit and headed up to the true summit for mug shots and a gander at the route ahead We had only seen a couple people so far on the trip and we headed off into solitude to the top of Graywolf For whatever reason, the USGS marker on Graywolf looked immaculate and solid gold, despite being placed in 1930??! And then it was off to South Graywolf, and our bivy for the night. Strangely, we couldn't find any flowing water below the large snowfields on the peak, and had to scrounge slushy water from a depression near the base of one. Water is an issue on this ridge! We arrived on the summit of South Graywolf in the late afternoon and settled in for a beautiful evening. Great flat summit for a bivy, but no shelter and no water nearby. The night was clear and relatively calm, with no snaffles. We awoke to another beautiful day, though it promised to be warm. Off we headed to Walkinshaw. We stopped at the col south of South Graywolf to drop our overnight gear. Lo and behold we ran into a soloist, Derek, from Longview, WA. I'm not sure who was more surprised. And so, being neighborly, Derek offered to join forces with us to keep rockfall under control. We had a great time getting to know each other, while conferring over the best way upwards. It was a bit steeper than any of us were expecting but never really severe. There was maybe one small section of 4th class low down on the face, but mostly it was reasonable, if exposed, Cl. 3 ground. The rock was solid, for the Olympics, but a helmet was definitely warranted. Within an hour or so, we found ourselves on top. Anybody know who these "Truckers" are who placed this register Cool peak history in there... And great views into the Needles After almost an hour on top we carefully retraced our steps down the peak and back to our gear. We bid Derek adieu as he headed up South Graywolf, and we hammered the knees down to the Royal Basin trail. No brush on the descent from the South Graywolf-Walkinshaw col (if you are on the right path), but plenty of hard dirt and cemented scree- we were glad to be down that slope and onto the unexpectedly pleasant trail. I had forgotten how nice it is! And then, the usual- chips, beer, change of clothes at the car, followed by battling the masses back to the busy Puget lowlands. 2 hour ferry wait! But a pleasant weekend all around.... Gear Notes: Boots, poles, helmet, maybe ice axe and crampons early season Approach Notes: Baldy trail up and Royal Basin trail out

Damn!!! Such a cool mountain and climb. Glad you made it up and down safe! I have never climbed in the Alps, but would like to. I had written the Matterhorn off the list.....and it might stay that way. But so many others!

Yep, too high on the East ledges descent, but sounds like you knew that. Pretty accurate assessment of the the East Ridge as well- pretty awesome mountain to have that route as its least "classic". Definitely my favorite peak in the North Cascades! By favorite I mean the mountain I've climbed the most times by the greatest number of routes. That is how I figure it at least, it is like picking your favorite child. I have one more unique ramble on that peak left to try I think, but I have no doubt that I will climb it as long as I can afterwards.

Nice work guys!!

RAW and Lightroom is the ticket! Maybe I should just go back to a crop sensor and mirrorless when my full frame dSLR dies......

Wow, those are impressive photos for moving so fast with limited gear! Just goes to show that location, and light are often the most important things. What are you shooting with these days?

Sheesh! That is a lot of ground to cover with good camera gear! Are those mostly your photos or Wyatt's?

Indeed, what an adventure! Thanks for linking it here....

And, I should add, that is an impressive trip solo @JonParker!!

Right, those! I did try and use them for a bit but got lazy. Thanks for the reminder.

And way to demystify this and slay the dragon in good style. You guys made it seem casual! You may as well go for a cool down lap on Terror's Stoddard buttress.

So great! I'm glad that the accumulated pain saved someone from repeating the near death that others have experienced when they didn't go LEFT. I can still taste and smell the fear from our brush with massive rockfall when we went right. I do remember thinking that the real route was pretty fine on our descent. Glad to hear that that is true. That snow/'schrund is no joke though....

I haven't been on the ridge nearly as much as you, but yeah, maybe the craziest thing that has been done in the range in a loooooooooong time. Glad you made it out safe, that's a lot of choss by yourself!!

Even with a top rope, I would need that 10- variation! Hoping to get @dberdinka to guide me up it some day!

Damn. Glad you both survived the chop, sounds like it easily could have taken both of you and the party below. And THANK YOU for the PSA, a great notice to the greater climbing community and one of the perfect examples of why this site is still relevant (even though I am biased). Also, some most excellent recent beta on the approach. Again, thanks!

Is that the same thing that is in tire dust that kills salmon?

I think Lopez is sus

All great things! I know that @olyclimber really would like to get the TR search page back up and functional. I love all of your ideas for tweaks and hopefully @olyclimber will be in touch with you to chat about your offer of help. Much appreciated!!