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Everything posted by JasonG
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I plan to see it on the big screen! MA was big inspiration to me over the years, even though I never met him in person. Although the film is probably something he would've probably cringed at seeing, I am glad that we can all get a better sense of who he was as a person and climber.
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[TR] Mt Index - North-Middle-Main Traverse 07/10/2021
JasonG replied to Riley81's topic in Alpine Lakes
Well done! Glad the report could be of use.... That is a proud and interesting traverse. -
Yeah, I probably should move on at some point as well, but I'm still deluding myself!
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Thanks for letting me know the approximate value! I have them all from 0 to the current issue....
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first ascent [TR] Mongo Ridge-W.Fury F.A.- VI-5.10- 8/28/2006
JasonG replied to wayne's topic in North Cascades
@Priti and Jeff??!! -
Yep, one of those parties (I think) was a friend of mine and his girlfriend. They reported no issues (except a few close bear encounters) and had a great climb.
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[TR] North Howser Tower - All Along the Watchtower 08/06/2019
JasonG replied to JeffreyW's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Wow, @jwalseth weighs in on this! So great! -
A lot of them have been stolen or thrown off the mountains over the years. I'd say a good proportion of the prominent summits had them in the 80's and 90's, but many have since disappeared. It is a shame. For a lot of those summits there was a good deal of history in the old registers, sometimes going back to the FA! Alpinist did a good story on the Mountaineers summit registers awhile back, but it isn't available online.
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[TR] Mount Deception - Standard 06/20/2021
JasonG replied to KaskadskyjKozak's topic in Olympic Peninsula
That is a steep slope to learn french technique with a broken hand @olyclimber!!! -
[TR] Mount Deception - Standard 06/20/2021
JasonG replied to KaskadskyjKozak's topic in Olympic Peninsula
That is super impressive @ryaneames! Both on your and your dad's parts!! Wow. -
Yep, there are forums for the sub-areas of the Cascades. No problem, I moved it here!
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Do you mean the peaks in Oregon @wingclimber? If so, I will move the thread.....
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Luna and Terror Basin XC zones regularly fill up on weekends now! This is a big change from even 5 years ago.
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You put in for the lottery at the end of March each year. Shhhhhh. It used to be poorly known, but I heard this year they got 5k applications. Oh well, it was good while it lasted.
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[TR] Whitehorse - Lone Tree Pass 05/22/2021
JasonG replied to KaskadskyjKozak's topic in North Cascades
Wow, I didn't realize that Whitehorse had become crowded-good to know! I have a couple vivid memories of that final slope below the summit. Back in the 90's I decided that it was a good idea to leap off the summit into a sitting glissade down it. By the time I realized that this was a very bad idea, I was going so fast that stopping was not an option! Thankfully, I skipped my way to the flats in control, without impaling myself. Then, some years later, I snowboarded it in too firm conditions. Same story- by the time I realized I made a mistake, there was no stopping. Again, thankfully, I managed to stay upright and in control for some sketchy turns down to the flats. It takes me awhile to learn from my mistakes. -
[TR] Anderson - Eel Glacier 05/30/2021
JasonG replied to KaskadskyjKozak's topic in Olympic Peninsula
Jack. . Well done, and with your son, no less! That is still on my list for later this summer, but we'll see. -
As with any pickets trip for a defined window, I think your biggest obstacle will be the weather. I imagine there will be a log to cross (seems like there always is), but maybe not in the exact spot as last year. Great shot! What is your astro lens of choice?
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And in place of toilet paper. But they were two different sticks. He had a system!
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I have to say that this thread shows the board's, uh, maturation. "Don't end up like me, use Invisalign!" -FB
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Trip: Jack - Nohokomeen Headwall Trip Date: 05/30/2021 Trip Report: Ever since this route has become popular, I've wanted to check it out. Jack is hard to ignore from anywhere, but especially from Ross Lake, where my family and I typically like to camp for a week each August. While I have climbed Jack from the east side, the north side is the show stopper from Ross, with the giant Nohokomeen Glacier dominated the view from the north end of the lake. In the words of @Trent (though he couldn't join @therunningdog @sparverius @kmfoerster and I), "It must be climbed!" And so we did. But it wasn't fast. We spread our effort over three days, with one full day for the summit and associated lounging, and another day on either end for approaching and running away. We waited until the highway was open, so there was none of that uncivilized biking stuff you might have seen on nwhikers. No way! We were, uh, civilized. And very serious- so serious this mountain climbing business. No joking, no laughing, no resting, and certainly no campfire or whiskey... It was all business and very professional. That's how we roll. Gear Notes: Snowshoes were handy for portions....ice axe, light 2nd tool, aluminum crampons, helmet, light glacier gear. We soloed the headwall up and down Approach Notes: East Bank trail and then up by May Creek. East bank trail is mostly cut out, only one log to hop over. Light brush and pretty straightforward travel and routefinding up the hill, based on where it looks best on the map. Nohokomeen Headwall is to about 50-55 degrees and the summit ridge is exposed.
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Best season for Stuart, via Cascadian Couloir?
JasonG replied to LandRunning's topic in Climber's Board
The top will have some steep snow below the false summit to contend with in June and some punchy snow wherever it is thin. I've used the Cascadian a few times over the years, always to descend, and always mostly snow-free. It is pretty fine without snow, but I'm not picky. Each season will have its own challenges, but I think the major deciding factor should be how comfortable your group is on steep snow that could be icy. Are you ALL good with crampons and axe?