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Sam Boyce

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Sam Boyce last won the day on March 21

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About Sam Boyce

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  • Birthday 08/13/1995
  1. Trip: North Cascades- Boston Basin - The Boston Marathon Trip Date: 07/10/2018 Trip Report: This is super delayed, but i was looking though old pics and thought this trip was worth sharing with y'all. Kyle was most certainly the brain-child behind this absurdity. I think it was sometime in the summer of 2017 he mentioned this idea of solo circumnaving boston basin. I was a bit suspicious that things might be a little more involved than was anticipated so told him i'd join in for a recon mission. We trail ran the sahale glacier route one day and gawked at the rest of the ridge, reading the unknown v known terrain and looking at the way the ridges tended to run. It was clear we were going in the wrong direction. For one, we would have to do the tft backwards, which would have honestly been the most chill weirdness. Downclimbing the ridge to sharkfin looked damn near suicidal. So we regrouped and planned a 2 day mission from the other end. We decided to start at the hidden lakes th and start on the triad via the sibley pass approach. When we hit the triad it was clear the "triad traverse" approach as described for marble creek basin didn't really let on to how gnarly the scrambling would be if one were to stay true to the ridge. We estimated summiting the triad sometime before 10 am, somewhere around mid afternoon we finally were running up the eldorado glacier. After tagging eldo via the east ridge, we ran over to the torment col while the sun was setting. After soloing the s ridge of torment in the morning, we realized we again had underestimated our objective, so we bailed down b basin and gorged on berries. One last attempt that summer would be thwarted by an overuse injury. And the september rains came, and boston basin stood like that itch you just cant reach all friggin winter long. Summer came around again and we were racking up at our first opportunity. Sometime in early July. looking back towards eldo and the triad on an early recon We Again set up the car shuttle, but this time the road was closed at the eldo th, and we had 4 days off, so we figured we'd tentatively plan on just tossing the triplets, cascade and j-berg in on the final day (our plan was to scramble the j berg summit ridge and bushwack down the gnar forrest straight back to the eldo th.). Weather ultimately meant this final link would not go, but its certainly something to aspire to. We set off from the trailhead for the triad. This time, we were prepared for the choss. early scrambling Kyle down-soloing some 5.6 choss on the triad Some 4th class funk on the triad 100ft tower we climbed along the way, 5.7 nothing on top suggested we were the first to visit such a bizzare place some more down climbin w face of w triad 5.6 R super aesthetic The first time we visited the triad we stayed true to the ridge crest east of the eastern summit and down-climbed somewhere about a third or half way down the east ridge. This proved to be an extremely dangerous experiment in natural jenga. We pushed off multiple oven to mini cooper sized blocks that impeded safe passage. We ended up bailing down some 500 ft 5.4-5.7 wall to the glacier. This was the boldest down-soloing i've ever committed to and would never be recommended. Remembering this experience, we opted to drop off the ridge after the eastern summit of the triad. A quick jaunt accross the glacier brought us over to eldo. We decided the truest line would be to climb the south ridge of eldorado. We found info on the south face, but none on the south ridge. We thought this odd, but the ridge looked quite reasonable. It ended up providing 4-6 epic and high quality pitches of easy rock climbing. A worthy stand alone mission and my second favorite (second to the west arete) way to summit the mountain. the first pitch gaining the s ridge of eldo second pitch some good ol' fashioned knife ridin good conditions meant a casual walk down the e ridge From the summit of eldo we decided to stop and rest at eldo camp rather than push through the dark to the torment col. I mean, there is a toilet there, thats pretty darn good motivation. We woke up early the next day and scurried across the feint climbers path leading over to torment. The torment col is always a neat place to hang out and fill up water. The true line here is the NW ridge of torment. We quickly glanced at the beckey bible the first time, and saw that it had gone. But when we got to the base of the ridge the gnar choss was quite strong, and we weren't entirely sure if we had the beta memorized, so we bailed back around the mountain to the south ridge. This time around we had taken some photos of the guidebook and decided to turn reason off. Getting on the ridge was the crux, purely mental, it turned out to be fairly easy going. There was one exposed and runout 5.8ish knife-edge pitch somewhere in there, but it all kinda blurred together. Soon enough we found ourselves on the summit of torment and in familiar terrain. The TFT awaited, finally some classic easy ridge travel! A classic b basin white out slowly creeped up as we reached the w ridge notch. It became apparent a storm was comming in so we scrambled to get the tarp up. We knew we were in for a wet night. looking over at the nw ridge of torment the entrance to the ridge, what looked like 5.10 from afar turned out to be 5.6 some more ridge scrambles on torment topping out the crux pitch of the nw ridge looking back at the entrance to the tft. getting on the glacier required a 20ft pendulum, then we had to rap down that high bergshrund. our first overhanging rap off a snow bollard. things were wet and snowy on the "3rd class rock" bypass variation We woke up on day 3 soaked (i say woke up, but there wasn't that much sleep). Rain stopped around 1 pm. The whiteout however persisted. We eventually got restless and started up the w ridge of forbidden. Neither of us had been down the east side of the mountain before, so we knew we were in for a good challenge when the whiteout lingered, but we knew we had to keep going if the traverse was going to go down. Finding the raps down the east ledges was tricky, but not unreasonable, we eventually got onto the e shoulder of the mountain below the start of the east ridge route. and knew that we had no clue what layed ahead, so we tucked tails and pitched the tarp. west ridge with a fog break another little break in the whiteout while descending the east ledges our bivy the next morning, j-berg looking classy as ever We awoke on day 4 with the sun and our first view of the nw ridge of boston. And we were decidedly a little concerned. Nonetheless we packed up and found our way down to the end of the e shoulder of forbidden. if ya think boston peak is choss, try scrambling around out here, it will change your understanding of the word. We reached the end, and the large cliff that would feed us to the the notch below the sharkfin ridge. this was truly un-rappellable terrain. So we backtracked to a low 5th class gully. A very stressful hour of downclimbing and rappelling spat us on the edge of the Qiuen Sabe. Another gully by the notch led us up to the steep hanging snowfield below the sharkfin ridge. We were short on time because of weather and opted to leave the subsummit west of sharkfin for another time. We quickly found ourselves at sharkfin. We climbed something on the sw ridge of the tooth, hard to remember exactly what we did. It was solid, exposed and 5.8. Had a hanging belay and no other signs of climbers. Not sure what we climbed, but it was fun. After some victory food on the summit we rapped off and set sail into a sea of virgin choss. I think there was maybe 1 more rappel to access boston, then we started up the ridge. We soloed about 1500 ft of low 5th class before hitting a vertical section and roping up. A circuitous combination of rappeling and ridge climbing brought us to the famous "ore" describing boston. A knife edge ridge guarded the easier looking summit headwall. The prospect of bailing at that point seemed worse than climbing the ridge, so i pushed up. The rock was best described as feta cheese. And i had to mow about a foot of the surface rock off as i au chevaled to ensure the entire ridge wouldn't collapse with me on it. I fabricated a belay half way across this called "off-belay". Kyle didn't look convinced i had found gear. Climbing delicately through the remaining pitches we found ourselves in unprotectable low 5th. So we soloed to the summit. The register up there is pretty rad, its a neat summit and the regular route doesn't look that bad. A few rappels and we knew we had done it, sahale was like the icing on the cake. And a 2000 ft boot ski down to the sahale arm was the reward. We blasted obscene music and trudged down to the cascade pass th. Overall we pitched out 26 pitches, rappelled 26 times and the gps read 26.2 miles back at the eldo th. A proper cascades test-piece. Some day we might go back and add j-berg. Maybe when memory fails us. "The Boston Marathon" VI 5.8R scouting the downclimb to the qiuen sabe looking over at the nw ridge of boston starting up sharkfin the final approach to boston. We ended up climbing just under the ridge crest for good 4th and low 5th class traversing until the gendarme right before the ridge starts gaining elevation, thats were we roped up the first roped climbing on boston finishing up on the first pitch of the au cheval Heres the track i took of the traverse loaded into caltopo, my phone died for about half of boston peak, so there is a straight line through that section. Gear Notes: Single Rack to 2, 50m half rope Approach Notes: We approached via the hidden lakes th with a car shuttle to the eldo th
  2. Looks like a little high pressure system might push in early next week. And i have tue-wed off. I'm looking to do a one day summit push and ski on either day (normally wouldn't be all that big of a day, but that all depends on how much of the road is going to be snow covered). All pending conditions and snow stability. shoot me a text if your interested 425-761-9849
  3. Just climbed outer space yesterday (9/28). The flake moves about the same as i remember it did when i climbed it last (spring 2014). Doesn't seem to be going anywhere, but who knows after another winter or 5's worth of freeze-thaw cycles. It doesn't change the difficulty to not use it, so i'd say just avoid it until it comes off on its own.
  4. New Routes at Exit 38 Far Side

    http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1142936 weather, injury, and lack of availability prolonged it longer than i'd like but i finally got out and did some final scrubbing and climbed the new lines.
  5. Trip: X38 - New routes at Gun Show Date: 9/12/2015 Trip Report: Finally had an alignment of the big three, time off, weather, and a partner. For those unaware, throughout this year i've been cleaning and bolting a number of climbs on the buttress to the far right of Gun Show. For what its worth heres a poorly drawn topo of the area. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0VWcJ9Gce6BaUhEdTJ5NUtiakE/view?pli=1 To get there, take the trail that gets you to endless bliss, from there, turn right and head down down a gully with a with a fixed line. Go past web slinger and continue up for a short distance and you should see the large obvious chimney. This is where 4 of the 5 routes are, for "welcome to the jungle" (the 3 pitch trad line) continue right to a small talus field, the whole climb will become visible. Here are the routes from right to left. Welcome to the jungle 5.8 ** 3 pitches approx. 60m FA Sam Boyce, Joe Manning, swap leads 9/11/15 It looked pretty easy from the ground, so i decided it would be a good opportunity to go ground up on something. After a bit of inspection i decided to trundle p1 on rap. Turned out to be a good idea as i pulled off many body sized blocks. The rock underneath however was bomber and gear options plenty. The pitches are unfortunately fairly short, but we decided to pitch it out for rope drag and communication. It might make sense to link either 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 for future ascents. P1- Start on the lower left of the lower wall with a few chimney moves, move out right and follow the scrub line. Pull onto the big ledge and belay at the tree to the left. Super solid rock, good gear, and fun climbing. 5.8 *** P2- Those not thrilled on adventure can downclimb a bit of 4th class to the right. This is where the route got its name. Start by monkeying up and around the belay tree and continue up the dirty chimney (climbs cleaner than it is) to the final ramp. Good gear belay. 5.5 * P3- Get a couple pieces in and gingerly dance around the big scary block, easier climbing to the top out (loose). Walk either all the way to the trees at headlight point or build a gear anchor about halfway up (theres a solid anchor about 100 ft back from the top out and toward climbers right). 5.6 * P4?- Walk up to Headlight Point then either hike out, or climb up and top out on headlight. GEAR: SR from blue metolius to 3 (#4 is nice for P3) Descent: Walk off from either headlight or top of eastern bloc View of the Whole Route https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BejEwNUZfUlRHTkk Joe leading P2 https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BTW1BWVlhNkRSVVk Leading P3 https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BQzAxRUZNU3hIdmc Anchor i used for the top of P3 https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BdXJMRmdNX0RhRmM Heading toward Headlight https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BWUZFaVlQVzJIN28 View from the top https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BZDRRWXRhZ0U4RDQ ?Dislocated? 5.11c *** 2 pitches. 40m FA Kyle Elliot The start of the climb is the overhanging clean dihedral just to the right of the chimney. I bolted this back around February, at the time i couldn't figure out the sequence for the start the dihedral so i made it an open project. Kyle Elliot snagged the FA, the name is a tentative, but derived from an apparent finger injury sustained on the crux. You can walk off/onto the P1 anchor ledge from climbers right through a couple trees. Shares P1 anchor with "Relocated" and P2 anchor with "Relocated" and "Stairway to Stem". P1- Boulder up the dihedral then walk up the easy, but dirty slab to the anchors on the ledge above. 5.11c *** P2- Face climb straight up, a couple options are available, the crux comes as another boulder problem to gain the final headwall headed toward the top. 5.10d *** Gear: sport rack Descent: Rap the route. Base area of Dislocated https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BdWwzUnNDNWtkLWc The starting Dihedral https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BRDJIekN4QjBjLW8 P2 is the flat face high center in photo https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BcmpJdjJtWkE0cmc'>https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BcmpJdjJtWkE0cmc Relocated 5.6 ** 2 Pitches. 40m FA Sam Boyce (OS lead), Joe Manning (OS Follow) 9/11/15 The ramp located between stairway and dislocated. Looked like a short and fun little trad line, worth climbing for the final 25-30 ft. Shares P1 anchor with "Dislocated" and P2 anchor with "Dislocated" and "Stairway to Stem". P1- Up the ramp/dihedral either cut right halfway up at a crack or continue further climbers left. 5.6 ** P2- Walk right across the ledge and start climbing at some blocky flakes. Up a 4th class slab to the final headwall (gear options if insecure on slab, but gear might increase rope drag). Continue right until you see the super broken up face. A few fun moves brings you to a super airy traverse (really fun) leftward. Continue straight up to the anchors. 5.6 **** Gear: SR Descent: Rap the route. Start of the route https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BN183eFB3UU1vYVE Leading P1 https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BaGt0N0xWRE5ZSkU P1 https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BcmpJdjJtWkE0cmc The second Pitch https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BXzhxY1p3dlhzSWs Stairway to Stem 5.9 **** 2 Pitches. 40m FA Sam Boyce (OS lead), Andrew Nelson (OS follow) Feb 2015 The large obvious chimney. First route i bolted in the area. the massive debris field at the base is reminiscent of the sheer volume of rock and dirt that was removed from this thing. The lower part of the climb can tend to get dirty as it seems to be the funnel of debris in the area. Don't let this discourage you to much as the actual climbing stays pretty clean. Shares P2 anchor with "Relocated" and Dislocated" P0- Comfortable parties may want to solo the 4th class stairway to the first bolt. P1- Stem straight up, Fun and unique to the area. Top out right to continue on stairway, top out left to climb P2 of Baby Steps. If continuing on stairway there is an optional chainless belay right after the top-out, stop here or continue to the top. 5.9 **** P2- Start by traversing right, head straight up on some fun and really airy face moves. Head straight up to the anchor. 5.9 **** Gear: Sport Rack Descent: rap to the P1 dislocated/relocated anchor then to the ground. P1 is the chimney hugging the right edge of the photo https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BaU54bFVRNlRRdDQ'>https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BaU54bFVRNlRRdDQ Baby Steps 5.10b *** 2 Pitches. 40m FA Sam Boyce (OS Lead), Joe Manning (OS follow). 9/11/15 Takes a line to the right of the massive nose shaped roof, starts just left to the start of stairway. Looked cool, the anchors on P2 were actually there (hangerless) when i scrambled up there, i'm guessing from when someone put up web slinger. Super clean on solid rock with good gear. P1- Starts off on the blocky bit to the left of stairway, gain the initial slab (ignore the chains below the roof, they are for a project not yet completed). Its a bit runout, so those unaccustomed to slab climbing may find this the a tad spicy. first bolt is on a ramp feature, mantel past it and walk left to gain the next bolt. 2 face cruxes are separated by a really good jug that you can place gear from. The protruding block at the end of the second move is solid (i couldn't get it to come out with a crowbar) but use it at your own discretion. I yarded on it on lead and Joe followed without using it. Top out onto the slab and head straight to the anchor. 5.10b **** P2- Head into the obvious dihedral. Bomber finger locks and solid gear brings you to a large block (again i couldn't remove it with a crowbar). Use the bolt, do not use the splitter crack behind the block for what should be obvious reasons. continue up the dihedral and finish on another low angle slab. 5.8+ *** Gear: 4 bolts + SR with grey/blue metolius (protects crux), #4 is helpful in P1 Descent: Rap the route. The route starts center, and follows right of the nose, P2 is the dihedral barely visible high center https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BaU54bFVRNlRRdDQ Chains on and below massive Nose roof Incomplete as of 9/12/15. Intended line is to the left of the nose with possible aid line straight up the prow of it. Will complete when i make my next hanger order.
  6. New Routes at Exit 38 Far Side

    Hey guys, haven't posted in a while so i figured i should give an update on what i've been up to (not as much climbing as i'd like). I had some time off and couldn't secure a climbing partner to go to squamish so I made some last minute plans and went on a solo backpacking trip. After i got back i was riding my motorcycle and got rear-ended by another bike. I got some decent road rash, nothing to stop me from climbing, but enough to make me not want to head up and clean (seems self-explanatory, but for those who don't know, scrubbing tends to generate an unpleasant cloud of dirt and lichen debris). Everything is ready minus the far left line (ran out of hangers, so i need to get some more to bolt the short section of rock without gear options). I'm hoping to get out this week to get the 3 new lines climbed. I'll bring my camera when i get out and post all the info/grades and such then. Also, i recently checked in on the MP pages and it seems like someone climbed the proj dihege, i'll try and get a hold of him, see if he wants to name it, see what he felt about the grade.
  7. New Routes at Exit 38 Far Side

    Also, for all you adrenaline junkies, there is a bit of a side project coming into fruition. I don't feel disposed to share details until i'm sure its safe, but i'm psyched for it, so if you want some beta shoot me a PM.
  8. New Routes at Exit 38 Far Side

    Hey Guys, figured I should give an update and a bit of a warning. I've been up in the same vicinity as the other routes I bolted cleaning a few new lines, today especially I kicked off a number of rather huge blocks. So this is more of a warning for the next few days. It will NOT be safe to go all the way down to web slinger, web slinger might be "ok" but I've noticed quite a bit of shrapnel flying in that direction. I'll try and rope off the approach with the fixed line and might make a sign (maybe for the TH and the rope, thoughts?), and will certainly try to give advanced warning for bigger rocks. With all that said, there should be a total of 4 new independent multi-pitch lines in the vicinity by the end of the week. I'll post some beta once I get them all cleaned and climbed. Once climbed there will be a total of 6 routes (adding up to a total of 15 pitches) from left to right: -3 pitch 5.hard, don't know what it'll go at, still need to clean and bolt the crux. mixed pro -3 pitch (optional p-1) mid 10, mixed pro -stairway to stem -2 pitch 5.8-9 on gear with bolted anchors -2 pitch 5.hard open project dihege to 10- face to V3-4 -3 pitch 5.7ish all gear, top out at headlight As I was cleaning , I noticed the lines I bolted earlier this year had gotten a bit grungy and dirty, so I took a scrub lap down p2 of stairway. I'm holding off on rescrubbing p1 of stairway as that is where all of the cleaning debris in the area accumulates. Everything should be good to go later this week. I'll post a topo for the area along with pictures/better route descriptions and names once they get climbed (speaking of, anyone want to do some FA's thur afternoon)
  9. Looking to climb on tue and wed. Honestly down for anything, here are some objectives toward the top of the tick list N ridge stuart, w ridge stuart, ice cliff arete, serpentine arete, backbone ridge, Stuart range traverse, liberty traverse, anything at WA pass, Down to head to darrington/index/static point, squamish, also wouldn't be opposed to a lap up rainier or baker (n ridge baker might be kind of fun in a "does this go" kind of way, would definitely need to procure some condition beta to consider). If you had something else in mind i'd probably be psyched, just trying to take advantage of good weather and days off. I don't always have my phone on me so best bet to get a hold of me is text 425-761-9849.
  10. looking to get out to index for the day, hoping to hop on princely and maybe Sagittarius maybe a couple others on the lower wall then head up to the country. Heres my number, i'm at work so text is best 425-761-9849 if i don't hear anything by about 10 or 11 i'm going to plan on heading to the pass to do some scrambling.
  11. Trip: Mt. Garfield - Infinite Bliss Date: 7/4/2015 Trip Report: This is not intended to give any beta on the route or approach (as there are a number of really good pages devoted to this, just do a google search) but rather give an update on the current conditions. Early morning, got a text from Elliott, he just got off work and is headed my way, sweet that was 3am, a couple hrs earlier than expected. We met at my house in north bend around 4 did some final packing and gear sorting and left the house at around 4:30. So heres the beta with the middle fork road, they are opening it up mid-day Friday with escorts until they wrap up for the day, sat and sun will be wide open and they close midday mon. We arrived at the parking lot around 5:30 and headed up the trail soon after. Trail seems to be pretty beaten in, so it was easy enough to follow. we got the the base around 6:10 and started racking up. After racking up, taking time to locate the first bolt and looking over the topo one last time we headed up the wall around 6:30. We simuled the lower slab (the anchor that was damaged was actually anchor number one, unless we missed anchor number one on the way up and down, I put a new quicklink and chain on but wasn't able to remove the broken one without any tools, other than that the rest of the gear on the climb seems to be in ok condition), pitched out the 9 through the 10b then simuled the 5.0 bit. After the pitch with 2 bolts make sure to follow the ramp shooting off to the right, you'll be aiming toward a fairly large bush with slings. I went straight up putting us off route, I was able to sling some trees and keep us tethered to something for most of it, but we ended up in some pretty loose rock. I kept going until the slab came to the headwall and belayed off some bigger trees, I then headed up over a little bulge and did a bit of an airy unprotected traverse and boom, back on route. We even skipped the 5.8 pitch, hrm, that was weird, but we kept pushing on to the summit. I think we were on the summit around 2, we had plenty of time until dark so we hung out for probably around an hour and started rigging for the rappel. We were at the base sometime around 5.30-6 and enjoyed our first shade of the day since around 10am. We leisurely packed up after drinking some run off water and headed back to north bend. All in all, the crux for us was definitely the heat, we should have packed more on climb water than we did. All the gear seems to be good to go, I didn't notice any other broken quicklinks. The tat on the bush in the middle of the 5.0 could probably use replacement soon, from what I could tell there was one solid piece and a number of sun-faded pieces. Super fun climb, if you leave early enough you can for the most part beat the heat, highly recommended (just remember that it is an alpine climb and should be respected as such, the 5.0 is quite runout on less than ideal rock quality).
  12. Tooth on 5/27 Infinite Bliss 5/29

    also, i have all day off tue, and would maybe be interested in something in the stuart range (like prusik peak, W ridge of stuart, serpentine ridge or something of that nature)
  13. I live in north bend and have gone long enough with these on my tick list. For the tooth I'd be looking to do a super fast super light early morning ascent. i'm willing to commit to any weather accept lightning. I need to be in redmond by 2.30 PM on wed. I have all day Fri off and the weather looks good, so infinite bliss would be good. Again, probably an early start and a bunch of simul-climbing and fast movement. Heres my number if your interested 425-761-9849 (PS: sorry to anyone who contacted my on my last partners post, i had some things come up that pulled me away from climbing.)
  14. Bought this last season and used a few times. Works great and is super roomy inside, but i'm looking to get a 2 wall tent. Heres some info from outdoorgearlab http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/4-Season-Tent-Reviews/Mountain-Hardwear-EV2 I'm asking 300 buyer pays shipping if not local.