JasonG

Skinning up/descending that way would have been fairly unpleasant. The snow was pretty terrible. But hey, beats mowing the lawn!

Trip: South Early Winters Spire - SW Couloir Trip Date: 05/14/2022 Trip Report: Wow, it has been a long time since I did a TR on here. Maybe that is because I am mostly climbing middle aged weekend warrior stuff these days, of which there is no end of TRs in this database. But, I was reminded yesterday, those trips are still quite a hoot, even almost 30 years since I first started rambling around the North Cascades. I mean what's not to like a about driving a couple hours from your warm bed, skiing up to an aesthetic couloir and tagging a purty summit with good friends? Even if two of those friends wanted to start two hours after you did and the other friend forgot their skis and set it all back another hour? But none of that could detract from the timeless fun of good times in the hills with old and new friends. And, truth be told, the SNAFUs actually all worked out for the best, since we had the summit to ourselves during the only sunny spell of the day. And that is why, even though I've lost count of the number of times I've climbed S. Early, I will be back! @therunningdog and Sara on the approach: @cfire booting up the SW couloir in a squall: The best ambiance: The stoke was high for Sara! Cumbre!: Selfie: Mind the gap: Typical shenanigans on the descent: The route: Across to Golden Horn and Tower: @cfire ready to slay the schmoo: Whistler Peak from the highway, apres: You don't bring an end table for TH apres snacks? The always beautiful Silverstar between squalls: Gear Notes: Helmet, axe, crampons, flotation. Rope is optional, depending on your comfort with the exposure. Approach Notes: Park at Blue Lake TH and go up! You can't miss it.

I have been slacking! But @dberdinka never does when he is in the hills. Here he is heading to the North ridge of Torment:

Absolutely incredible, especially that first Big Four photo. Wow!

Tomorrow!

https://www.anacortesnow.com/news/community-news/4749-snow-clearing-on-north-cascades-highway-making-progress Next week!

Oh, I know. But that dad joke was just too good to pass up!

I'm heading to pick this up this weekend, thanks @max!!

Wow!

I need to plan a Canada trip next season. I mean, just look at this view from the front porch of the Stanley Mitchell Hut!

https://lakechelannow.com/north-cascades-highway-update/ Seems like next weekend isn't going to happen, mid May this year?

Just about volcano season!

This is still one of the best things ever written on this site.

Cumbre!!! Well done!!! That sounds like quite the effort. Thanks for the detailed beta and beautiful images....so great!!!

Yeah, that is true, with snow I think Eldo is the better approach. I like the idea of a Torment Tour, going down the couloir to the lake and finishing by up and around to Eldo and out. Camping at Moraine Lake is pretty special, definitely one of my favorite spots.

Wow! That is an amazing trip, thanks for the beta! Just so I am clear, you only needed the fixed rope to access Torment and not to descend the couloir? And, is there any reason you didn't use the torment basin route?

I've always been too timid to try it. Seems like it wouldn't end well in firm snow. On two-tool steep routes I've not thought self-arrest was really a good option, but interested to hear if someone has been successful.

I hope nobody is taking our comments as judgement. I think we were just providing some info that was asked for about the TC and the range of terrain/conditions he may have experienced before the fall. Climbing is dangerous, roped or not. This has been driven home to me by several close calls over the years (some roped, some un-roped). I have also lost several friends to the mountains that were stronger and better climbers than I. However, climbing is still something that many of us can't seem to quit, much to the chagrin of our loved ones. Climb on Dr. Thurmer......

Absolutely incredible! Damn, thanks for all the great photos, overlays, and general beauty. I am at a loss for superlatives, but I will at least elevate this to "best of cc.com"! And yes, major congratulations are in order to @Priti! @JeffreyW, you're pretty OK too.

Yep, that looks worth skiing:

So, the desert was great and all, but I hear that I missed some powder??!

Agree with @kmfoerster....I think in anything but the best conditions there are several insecure sections (i.e. what I found when I climbed it years ago). Also agree that it is unlikely that the runnels were in very good shape and he likely had to use the bypass (which we also did like @kmfoerster). Even in good conditions, when the ice is solid and fat, the route is a funnel, so any falling debris could knock off a soloist pretty easily. I too am sorry for your loss @Norman_Clyde, it sounds like a terrible situation all around.

Wow, thanks @Slab Mistress. This is what I still love about the site, there are folks here who can answer obscure questions with authority!

Come on, it's only 5.6: