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Everything posted by JasonG
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Maybe not fair, but definitely reality. My guess is that rural landowners are increasingly likely to take matters into their own hands as predator populations continue to expand in the wake of hunting regulations changes in WA (elimination of spring bear, elimination of hound hunting, etc.).
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Statistical Climbing Guide for Fred Beckey
JasonG replied to DHC's topic in Personal Climbing Web Pages
"Fred Beckey, LLC commits 100% of all Annual Net Profits from sales derived from licensing Fred Beckey™ to environmental causes and mountain conservation; this might also include political contributions." -
What.....the.....hell!!! @rob is back??!!
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[TR] Mt. Worthington - JGAP Directo 05/11/2024
JasonG replied to JasonG's topic in Olympic Peninsula
The final few feet are not dog friendly (slabby, exposed 3rd), but Kiba could wait below? Would only take a couple minutes to tag. That summit area is less than 50' of vertical. -
wooohooooo!!!! 20220722_060955.mp4
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Maybe @Juan Sharp or @mattp still lurk around and could help?
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Trip: Mt. Worthington - JGAP Directo Trip Date: 05/11/2024 Trip Report: Worthington? Had I heard of this peak before a few days ago? Uhhh, no. I'll admit that it was Plan B after some car trouble scuttled @Trent and my's plan to bug out for a Friday car camp and early Saturday climb. Which meant that I missed most of the aurora that every raved about while I was casting about the recent aerials and maps, looking for a modestly high summit that wouldn't have much snow. Somehow Worthington caught my eye because maybe it could be worthy? To the NE side of the Olympics we would go and find out! But we couldn't just follow a gpx track and some beta, That is no fun at all. And so we went up Worthington a different way (from the east and south) than you'll find on the typical peakbagger sites. Mostly it was reasonable, but sometimes it wasn't all that pleasant. Where we left the trail it was pleasant, open forest. But then there was this was this section of softball scree, which was right after some scorest and before some steep dirt and gullies that I think the remaining fugitive goats maintain (good thing too, this was a key weakness that made this side go reasonably). Somewhere in there a couple of large rocks shot past at an alarmingly high rate of speed (fugitive goats?), which was sort of exciting. But after that it was all alpine nectar, I promise. However, I know you don't come to my TRs for beta, which would ruin all the fun. Everybody's here for the photos.... and so without further ado... 4am wakeup: First boat to Kingston: Big Quilcene pleasantness: Let the fun begin: Alpine nectar! Napping under the true summit (class 3): Constance: Tahoma: Flowers, if you're into that sort of thing: @Trent heading down with Constance and Inner Constance looking on: Gear Notes: helmet, whatever you might need for snow, if there is snow. Approach Notes: Big Quilcene Trail to Shelter Rock Camp and then up!
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Mt Hood - Black Spider - Shelob's Lair (WI4, 2 pitches) - FA?
JasonG replied to zaworotiuk's topic in Oregon Cascades
Damn. That is crazy close to getting the chop. Glad you survived to post the TR! -
We should rename this thread to "North Cascades climbers to have more first world problems"
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Sure, that is how this all reads. I'll go back to my ivory tower.
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[TR] S Pickets - Himmelhorn - Wild Hair Crack? 08/20/2022
JasonG replied to bedellympian's topic in North Cascades
I crossed the Barrier in summer of '09 from Terror Basin and I don't remember a snow gully. I do remember steep compact dirt and a lot of whining. Maybe it is just a seasonal snow thing? Snowpack seems to be going away earlier each year. -
And how are you sure of this? The NPS has shown in the North Cascades that they prioritize bears over recreation, most recently with the Terror basin closure this past summer. And yes, I am selfishly focused on recreation in our national parks, while you're focused on wildlife and think that is a superior attitude (by your lecturing and scolding of alternate viewpoints). Not quite sure how you figure who is superior in these arguments, but you seem to have drawn the line @jdj.
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The outcome was never in doubt.
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Trip: Williams Peak - Standard Trip Date: 04/13/2024 Trip Report: Over the past year of so I've gotten reacquainted with the Chilliwack Lake environs. It is just as close to my house as many areas of the Cascades and offers some new peaks to ponder and some unfamiliar views of familiar peaks. And, for whatever reason, I've been able to mostly have these mountains to myself on the handful of trips that I've taken up there. Williams Peak was no exception a couple weeks ago - I didn't see a soul after leaving the car. For such a striking peak on a fine spring day, I was a bit surprised. But there was definitely slogging, and that probably explains the solitude. The trail gains almost 3000' in the first mile and a half, and then there are two miles of undulating ridge to slog in snowshoes. But the scenic rewards, as you'll see below, were quite great beyond that. Plus, it did get more entertaining for the final 1000' up the steepening gully to the summit, dodging small wet slides and eyeing the cliffs above me suspiciously. I had read about annoying talus and steep heather once the snow melts off so a spring ascent might be the ticket on this one, even if it is more work. For me, being able to get a good look at the north faces of Rexford and Slesse draped in the think mantle of a late season snowpack more than made up for any discomfort. Williams from the valley bottom. Prepare to work! First glimpse of North side of Slesse: Chilliwack Lake: North side of Rexford with Shuksan in the distance: Slesse with Baker behind: Welch and Foley (gotta get in there next!): Look back at Williams from the slog out the ridge: Gear Notes: Snowshoes, I'm afraid. This wouldn't be a great ski with the up and down and endless forest. Crampons, helmet, and axe in early season- it is steep in the final gully Approach Notes: Chilliwack Lake Road is paved to the TH
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[TR] Black Peak and Prime Rib - #methowmultisport 04/20/2024
JasonG posted a topic in North Cascades
Trip: Black Peak and Prime Rib - #methowmultisport Trip Date: 04/20/2024 Trip Report: For those of us up here in the north sound, it is hard to ignore the gravitational pull when Hwy 20 opens for the year. It is like someone pulls the plug in the backyard pool and we are inexorably pulled east into the vortex of Sprinters and Teslas. But not this past weekend. It was like older, mellower times. Maybe it was the front moving through in the middle of the weekend. Maybe everyone was like my brother and were caught unawares of the opening? Whatever the reason, I'll take it. It was a good thing that the masses weren't up there though. @geosean and I myself weren't terribly original with the plan- a ski of Black on Saturday followed by Prime Rib on Goat wall on Sunday. We even brought bikes to enliven the descent from Goat Wall (this is a good bit more fun than rapping the route). And, mostly it went off without a hitch. And by that I mean we had fun, didn't get hurt, and came home friends. However, we did stop a few feet shy of the true summit of Black due to the typical spring shenanigans of steep snow, exposed rock, and no climbing gear. But, that slight disappointment was soon forgotten amidst the better than average corn skiing down to Lakes Ann and Wing. I think it has been over 20 years since I've been up on Black and I can see that I need to return more frequently. Thankfully the weather on Goat Creek Road was reasonable, though chilly, Saturday night. We started early to beat the crowds the never arrived and shivered in the wind and snow squalls as a result. It felt distinctly alpine, climbing in long johns and belaying in puffys all day. I'm sure it would be good training for something hard and high, if I still cared about those sorts of objectives. Mostly though, I shivered and muttered. But, it had been about 11 years since I had climbed the route, and so Prime Rib felt sort of like a new and interesting experience. This pronounced alpine amnesia is definitely one of the benefits of entering my "mature mountaineer" phase. Maybe I need to climb things all over again. Except Nooksack Tower. @geosean at Heather Pass: @geosean and Black at Wing Lake: I was not having this and turned us around: #methowmultisport: Dispersed camping views of Silverstar from Goat creek road: @geosean living the alpine dream on Goat Wall: The hordes will descend next weekend! Gear Notes: the full kit Approach Notes: Follow the herd -
I wasn't there tonight but what @tbickford says above was backed up by a friend who was also present. Get yer comments in folks!
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You're in the right spot @sara.squamish, welcome! I've found some of fine unicorns on this site...good luck! 🦄🦄🦄🦄🦄
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I am not 100% certain of the exact instances behind the Twin Sisters gates, but I suspect the usual- timber theft, dumping, fires, shooting, long-term camping, general mayhem, etc. These days it's much easier for the timber companies to gate their ownerships than deal with the shenanigans. But, gates do get vandalized all the time and aren't cheap to maintain either, but still probably cheaper than the alternative. I work a bit in the timber mgmt. landscape and I fully understand why the timber companies lock people out!
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Yeah, those gates in the Twin Sisters were unlocked into the 90s but the public definitely ruined that privilege long ago, unfortunately.
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Oh yeah, he's legit. Bulger finisher #11, who completed the list on Jack in 1997! And I don't think enough of that historical info is on the web for AI to generate a lot of those details, now that I think about it.
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I'm usually too clueless to be heavy handed. @DHC could be generating the articles via AI for sure. His account here is quite old and a lot of the photos in his articles (when they worked) appeared to be his? Maybe @DHC will sign on and explain what is going on....
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Statistical Climbing Guide for Fred Beckey
JasonG replied to DHC's topic in Personal Climbing Web Pages
Wow. that is quite the effort you put into those articles! I especially liked the summit register synopsis.... And FYI, I'm sure that Dallas chuckled because Fred didn't quite clear his "Difficult Ten". And maybe that was the point..... But to be honest, Dallas really admired Fred and climbed with him a fair bit over the years. -
Sigh, that really is lame. Not really much else to say at this point. But, moving on... https://ascentoutdoors.com/ ...is great! Locally owned by a climber friend of a friend of mine. Also, I will be forever a fan of https://featheredfriends.com/ If you are up north, make sure to support Chris and the crew at https:// backcountryessentials.net/ along with our flagship sponsor, https://shop.alpineinstitute.com/ For just ski gear in Seattle.... https://www.proskiseattle.com/