JasonG

Wow, is that as classic as it looks? Other stuff in the area that is similar? Pretty cool, thanks for the TR!

Uh Oh . ...Wastral has gone aggro. Time to set up the battle cage!!!!!! Where's the Capt'n when you need him?

Has that prominent ramp/gully been skied? Is this the Malignant gully you are referring to?

I think the key is the word "completely" in TNF press release/blog/whatever. I think it is a rather stupid distinction, but I'll bet this is the angle TNF is using. Probably some of the Polish expeditions started in the late autumn . .. Sorry, didn't mean to come to the defense of TNF, I was merely marveling at the slippery phrasing that they used.

See, you can believe some of the stuff Jeff says!

Just this once, we'll share the Smoot: http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Washingtons-Mountains/dp/0762710861/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpi_2

And how was it?

No Scrambles, we didn't think she would play well with the wildlife. Maybe when you get back from AK we can have a special Scrambles scramble?

Thanks . . .Canon T1i.

That is too bad. We left it in fine shape (and took care of a rodent that was in the lookout), as had those before us. We also used the blue bags provided and packed it out. We didn't see evidence of abuse/littering/human waste/etc., . That would really be tragic if a few bad apples spoil it for the rest of us, but I understand, you have to protect the lookout. Unfortunately, I suspect that efforts to secure the structure in winter will lead to vandalism from frustrated yahoos..... Regardless, thanks for taking care of the lookout, it is a great recreation resource!

Trip: Merchant Peak - South gully Date: 2/2/2011 Trip Report: Man, that Jeff Smoot sure knows how to pick them! As far as a winter/spring outing, Merchant is a great scramble. It's an easy drive from Seattle, has a low elevation TH that is accessible much of the year, and a short approach. Just make sure avi conditions are stable, as you are in harms way for most of the route. You will probably have the mountain to yourself, and the views are pretty darn good, so next time the weather cooperates maybe you should check it out . . .but first buy Smoot's book, so you can start ticking them off. You'll get hooked, just ask Tim and Ben. Captions are for the photo following . . . Mmmmmm, a loose gully. Firm snow made for fast travel Why you should go right before the second waterfall. Baring is certainly an impressive backdrop to the day. Where's Will Gadd when you need him? Index-Persis, Sky Valley, Olypmpics Summit ridge of Merchant, a few feet shy of the cumbre. Savage! Gunn Peak. Does anyone know where the Gunslinger route is? Summit of Baring, with Chair and Kaleetan in the distance. Heading down to make it back to J R Phinickey's in Monroe for happy hour. I think it took us around 6hrs round trip (for the climb, not the pub). Gear Notes: crampons, axe/whippet, helmet. No rope or harness needed. Jeff Smoot's "Climbing Washington's Mountains"- don't leave home without it. Approach Notes: Leave Barclay lake trail at gravel wash, past bridge over creek. Go up. Pass first waterfall in gully on left and second on right. Leave main gully ~3900', and go up semi hidden gully with large overhang at its base. When feasible, hang a left to summit.

Was "Godzilla" already mentioned? He is kind of green I think, and he could certainly crush the competition, unless some other company has a "Mothra" rock shoe. Oh, and it it a nice route at Index too . ..

From Lama's website: "As far as possible I would like to stick to the compressor route; I’ll refrain from bolting in rap-style. Should variations from the original compressor route be necessary for a free climbing attempt I will have to do that on lead, a quiet time intense venture for the short periods of good weather on Cerro Torre." Sounds like the lad is listening to the majority opinion out there. . . .Maybe folks can chill out a bit. He is pretty young and still figuring things out after all.

Interesting observations, thanks for that. They do it because they can, and once fees get established it is fairly easy to keep raising them. I'm guessing that it also has something to do with the fact that rainier is a singular objective within the park unlike the others that have lots and lots of routes on a variety of mountains. Maybe it's easier to police/control climbers @ rainier, so they feel they can wring money out of folks? This is raising more and more red flags- I think Loren makes some good points above also. Maybe I'll send another letter . . .

Thanks Brandon! Sorry I couldn't have joined you this past weekend . . .

Wait a sec, I just looked that prose up .. . Thórbiörn Hornklofi, Beowulf, and ......King Crimson? Now that is the classic stuff cc.com is made of. Sorry, now I can't resist. . . . The snakes and arrows a child is heir to Are enough to leave a thousand cuts We build our defenses, a place of safety And leave the darker places unexplored Sometimes the fortress is too strong Or the love is too weak What should have been our armor Becomes a sharp and angry sword

I'm not nearly literary enough to fully understand this thread, but I like the imagery . . .a nice change of style from the usual.

Email sent, thanks for the heads up. I think MRNP's "deficient" staffing levels at the $30 fee level are adequate- I don't really see much of a need to expand patrols or staffing. Trying to save people from themselves is a sure way to spend lots of money . .. Since Gator left the blog hasn't been really very current either- I usually find more up to date conditions info right here.

. . .meaning that you take them back when they are worn, and they are replaced a la REI? 5 times, eh?

Good to know, thanks for posting.

Thanks for the compliment, but have you checked out his site lately? I've got a ways to go . . ..

Trip: Winchester Lookout - The long way Date: 1/3/2011 Trip Report: It was real pretty and we should have had great skiing, but Scott discovered a broken binding once we got to the cabin. Oh well, we had more time to enjoy the view and talk about Dallas. We had the Pleiades in full view and it brought back a lot of memories. A visit by Mr. Scurlock was a great surprise, and the spectacular views didn't disappoint. South slopes were hit hard by the sun, but north slopes were quite nice for whatever form of downhill locomotion you enjoy. A great place to spend the night, but a bit of a grunt from the highway. We should have had sleds like the rest of the folks in the know. I was surprised by how busy the area was in the middle of winter, but sleds make for quick access, I guess. Lucky for us, we had the lookout to ourselves. Enough blabbing . ..here are some photos. Gear Notes: Whiskey Approach Notes: Long and scenic. Where are you supposed to park? We were scratching our heads at all the "No Parking" signs at the DOT maintenance yard.

Awesome show, thanks Jason!!

Hey everybody, this is tomorrow night!! Also, I forgot to mention that you should check out Jason's great websites: http://www.cascadecrusades.org/index.htm http://www.alpinestateofmind.com/ Hope to see you tomorrow at the show. . . .

So . .. did you take your draws back from him? Looks like he wasn't handing them over, even when caught red-handed- unbelievable! You were far nicer than I would have been, for sure. . . .