JasonG

So . . .was this forecasted and you were just trying to punish yourself for something really, really bad, or did the weather guys miss this? Now you probably realize why not many around here willingly head up Rainier in a storm. JG

An old friend of the family, Dwight Watson, once said "never start a trip in the rain". Like Gene and many others, I tend to heed this time tested advice. The old timers didn't have the fancy gear, so usually stayed put when it poured and waited it out, or they didn't go when the weather was obviously bad. While I think the advice on modern gear in this thread is good, things are still going to suck when it pours- you are just talking about managing the suck factor and trying to keep it as low as possible. Whatever you choose other than cotton or down is probably fine, just plan on varying degrees of misery until you can get near a raging fire and some good single malt. In all seriousness though, I have to hand it to the SAR folks as they often get the call when conditions are really sucking. My hat is off to you!

Those are some wild looking tools. Dane, you tried them?

and to take as many pictures as he did on those routes, wow. Whenever I am stressed about my or my partner's lead, I sure am not taking many photos. Nerves of steel . . .

Well, materials are evolving all the time and that analysis was 10 years old. I use this stuff at work and am quite impressed. A bit different than the climbing cord out there, and cheaper: http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/index.php?p=details&mfc=Samson&sku=870012706030-grey&frm=g We've used this stuff for years out in the sun; it's constantly being flexed and loaded. I've never seen it break, even when it looks beyond ratty. I know this isn't a climbing test, but it makes me wonder. Fishermen friends have used in the mountains for years . . .and I think I may join them.

A friend turned me on to his new site: http://carlosbuhler.wordpress.com/ Making all us dads out there look mighty bad. Sheesh. JG

My vote is for Mountaineer Creek- Argonaut, Sherpa, and Stuart could keep you busy for five days for sure. Or, the Ragged Ridge ski traverse if the weather is a bit more settled. You couldn't really go wrong skiing around Klawatti either . .. JG

Or Mix-up and Storm King?

Ivan- two of your later ones - J'Berg and Goode?

I can't wait till Lord Winchester writes up a TR, I'm sure he has quite a few! JG

It was really great, thanks Dallas!! He spent a bunch of time showing old gear, talking about his motivations for climbing, showing some really cool photos, and sharing advice for up and coming climbers. You could tell Dallas spent a good bit of time reflecting on his half century of climbing, and really focused on what he wanted to say. I'm glad we packed the house for this one, he deserved it. If anyone sees Dallas in the mountains, stop and talk with him awhile (like kevbone), you won't regret it! Cheers, Jason

Thanks, now I have to see if I can swing it!

Ummm . .. . yeah. I have seen several folks on this "FA" over the years, including "Git R dun" locals trying to impress their girlfriends. But, I agree that all alone, in winter conditions, the haystack can feel like casting into the unknown. Good times!

"50 Years of Climbing!" Dallas Kloke Skagit Alpine Club Monthly Meeting 4/7/10, 7pm, Skagit Valley College Roberts Hall, T-41 Dallas on Sauk Mtn. - Winter 2010 As of 2010, Dallas Kloke has been climbing for exactly 50 years!! Over the last half century he has climbed all over, but most often locally in the Cascades and at Mt. Erie. Dallas has numerous first ascents to his name and has climbed just about everything- often multiple times. As anyone who has climbed with him knows, he has as much energy (or maybe more) as folks half his age. For this special program, Dallas will share some of the stories about how he got into climbing and what things were like in his early years. He'll bring some of his old climbing gear for folks to take a look at, and share plenty of stories and some "oldie goldie" slides. This might just be the SAC show of the year, don't miss it!!! We will be meeting in Walter Roberts Hall - T-41. Dallas will go on after our regular business meeting at 7pm. Here is a link to a campus map: www.skagit.edu/images/color_mvCampus.pdf.

While those attending the dessert portion of the evening miss some of the speakers? Looks like a great event!!

Nice work Dan . . .just so I understand your TR completely, you skied both lines making up the prominent "Y" in your second photo? On the same day? From Bridge Creek? Yowza.

Yikes!! Was there any indication that Jason was on a bridge before it failed, or was he caught completely off guard? At first I didn't see that he had a rope on . . . wow.

Nice work Dan!! Tim and I were probably a bit pessimistic on our ski condition assessment, not knowing that we were talking to DAN THE MAN till the end of our conversation. I have to remember that just because I would be terrified skiing a line, doesn't mean someone else couldn't have a fun time. . . .Reminds me of the time I tried to tell Alan Kearney how brushy the Crescent Creek climbers path was when I ran into him in Goodell Creek. My climbing partner remarked after we had hiked past him a ways. . ."Uh, you know that was Alan Kearney, right?" D'OH! Thanks for the photos and video! Good times . . .

Tim and I were actually #1 and 2 ahead of Shannon and Yuri- they broke trail up to the TCs and up Couloir #1, then Tim and I took over from the bottom of #2 to the summit. Great day and perfect conditions- sounds like ~10 people climbed it and three skied it? Got to be some sort of record. Here are a few photos from yesterday: The beauty herself: Tim and I took a variation at the start to bypass some congestion. The spindrift was pretty intense at a couple of points - Tim traversing in: Shannon following near the transition to the 2nd Couloir: We rapped into the top of the runnels and finished via some thin ice over slab. Tim bringing the rope up after rappel: Shannon and Yuri at the bottom of the 2nd: Tim transitioning into the 3rd Couloir: Tim midway up the 3rd, beautiful! Rime near the summit: The happy duo on the summit: Of course the views weren't bad either: Shannon and Yuri traversing to the summit: Tim descending Aasgard: Dragontail is impressive: The pain of not bringing skis:

Another view of the beast taken a couple of weeks ago on a ski in the area: Scott and Steve tried to convince me that this climb would be a good idea. At least now I won't have to make excuses anymore- Well done gents!

. . .regardless of the size of the upload? Am I missing something. Sometimes I want to post a larger pic than "medium". I've tried to change the tag to large in the post, but then nothing shows up. I'm not the smartest tool in the shed, so if someone could enlighten me I would appreciate it. Thanks!

I never thought I had to worry around Diablo Lake (esp. in March!), but I pulled one out of our two year old on Saturday. It had burrowed in a bit, and our son was NOT happy to have it pulled out. Just thought others might want to know if you are taking kids up this trail (or others in the area) in the near future. Stinkin' El Nino . ..

He's a resident .. .of Washington. But our mysterious AK rocker knows Roger . . Strong, if that's who yer talking about.

Hey there buddy! Good to see that the Great White North is treating you well this season. Sounds like fishing is a bit slow so that means more time for the hills? Stay safe, and we'll get out when you come back state side . .. -JG

Howdy Folks- In case anyone is interested in an inexpensive (~$200) mountaineering class, our club will begin the 2010 class soon (3/29/10). Here's the page with more info: http://www.skagitalpineclub.com/mount_class.htm'>http://www.skagitalpineclub.com/mount_class.htm For those that live in the North Sound, it is a convenient way to learn some skills for the hills. We already have a few interested souls and only 25 spots, so it may fill up quick. The 10 week class will meet one day a week in the evening in Mount Vernon (6-9pm), and most weekends through June will have field trips one or both days. We hope some of you will come out this spring with us! For more information about the club: http://www.skagitalpineclub.com/ Cheers, Jason