JasonG

Incredible! Thanks for putting this out John. Like Miller's classic "The North Cascades", I think you may have created something that will be coveted for decades to come.

sounded like a tree that is no longer as bomber as it once was....

Right, THAT thread. Makes more sense now. I was scratching my head a bit.....

I just reviewed this thread, after an interesting discussion with Kevork (sp?) at the SAC monthly meeting last night. I guess the ranger types tune in to our pontificating on cc.com. . . . He was concerned that there was misinformation swirling around the Legacy project and didn't appreciate the personal attacks- I tried to explain that kind of came with the territory around here, and it really wasn't aimed at specific individuals for the most part. Actually I think there is quite a bit of good bit of discussion on this thread, and it is good to see things brought out in the open (if folks are getting the facts wrong, those in the know please chime in). Too often when we are going to get our permits, we just want to keep our heads down and get in and out as quick as possible. Over the years, some of the issues (and our frustrations) can fester. The Legacy proposal is bringing a lot of existing issues to the surface. Regardless, I told him that I certainly don't feel the majority of NCNP rangers are out to mess with me or unfairly limit my access to the park. Like most of us, they care deeply about the North Cascades and often deal with inexperienced people from out of the area. It is probably natural that after dealing with lots and lots of these folks your interactions with experienced locals may start to be colored by these prior exchanges- which is unfortunate. After talking with Kevork, I realized it was just a few instances spread over the years that really had tarnished my impression of the NPS as a whole. Unfortunately these instances (condescending/pushy behavior, assuming I'm out to trash the woods, trying to force the voluntary climbing register on me, etc.) were frustrating enough to really stick with me. Over the same 15+ years I have had only one bad experience with FS rangers (maybe because I almost never see them?). So, when weighing the pros and cons of NPS vs. FS mgmt under the proposed Legacy project, I'm afraid I still stand by my earlier position that we don't really need expanded NPS oversight in the North Cascades. I would encourage Kelly, Kevork, and other NCNP staff to weigh in here to share their perspectives on some of the frustrations voiced here and on other threads recently. Kevork mentioned that they have stated "their" side many times previously (and were thinking of updating the website with some information aimed at these topics), but it doesn't hurt to keep things fresh for our pea brains. I understand that NCNP is not pushing the Legacy project, but I think that many of the issues raised (how permit limits are determined, reservation systems, guiding services, etc.) here are equally valid if NCNP doesn't expand one acre. You will never make everyone happy, but communication is important, and I know most of us would benefit from a broader discussion. Please don't be shy......mattp won't let it get too out of hand.

BTW, the birds in your photos are grebes: http://birdweb.org/birdweb/bird/western_grebe

Cool!! Kids always grow up so fast....

Damn, now that is some climbing. Thanks for the great photos and story! Those glaciers are looking pretty hammered from the poor winter and summer melt....

Thanks for the clarification Gene, I'm not sure if the guide services can reserve on weekends or not (I made a leap that may have been unjustified). Kurt or Jason may be able to weigh in on this....

I agree Matt, when the charge mounts to start clear cutting or mining in the Hwy 20 corridor I will be first in line to step up and make my voice heard. Shoot, I'd even probably chain myself to a tree with my kids if those lands were really under the gun. But, until then, why do we need to fix something that is working quite well? Leave things the way they are.

How is it exactly that they are great?? Most of the rangers in MM are polite, but hardly enthusiastic that I am going somewhere wild. I get the vibe that most are wringing their hands over the damage that my party may or may not do the land under their management. I find it a bit ironic that these are also places that most of them haven't been to or ever will go to (with the exception of the climbing rangers). I'm not out to wreak havoc on the backcountry, so this vibe gets a bit tiresome. And, what about guiding services and Boston Basin permits (and probably Shuksan and Eldo as well)?? Why can't normal citizens reserve in advance like the guiding companies (why not a lottery system for a spot of two a night, like the enchantments)?? Why do guides get the majority of spots in BB on a nightly basis?? Because of the typical NPS relationship with concessionaires, I am leery of them managing a greatly expanded NCNP. The NPS is a pretty screwed up organization, and I am not sure they are any better than the FS in managing the land. From today's Seattle Times: http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2016356020_rainier02m.html Do we want this organization in charge of a much expanded NCNP? Why not wilderness status under the FS for these lands under consideration in the park???. To me that would preserve the land without the added frustration of dealing with the NPS. More protection (from resource extraction, not recreation) for land in the North Cascades is very good IMO, I just doubt the NPS is the best organization to take it on.

That's right, I don't think he climbed S. Hozomeen....but I need to consult the logs to know for sure.

Thanks for the excellent article from AK. Working up there for several seasons and walking salmon streams on a daily basis, I was charged several times (and one time stalked by a charging subadult male for the longest 10 minutes of my life). We always carried a gun (shotgun with slugs), but things happen so fast that it is rarely off your shoulder and ready to fire before it is over (bear usually veered at the last second, amid much cursing). Those with pepper spray always had it out and ready to spray before whomever had the gun. As a matter of fact, a co-worker's life was spared through the use of pepper spray at close range (the bear was standing over the top of her and she emptied it into its mouth). So, in my experience, pepper spray is the way to go. And make sure to make a lot of noise (doesn't always work though when it is windy or you are near rushing water). My experiences in brown bear country are also the prime reason why I am not excited about the push to recover them in the North Cascades.

Sharkfin Tower Torment or Forbidden (with a car camp) Ruth Tomyhoi White Chuck Monte Cristo The Triad Three Fingers Crater All are very scenic and most are just scrambles, but all are worth doing.

Can someone give me the short version on how their proposal might affect day/overnight use of WA/Rainy pass climbing routes. Thinking about Liberty Bell and Black Peak areas....Thanks!

On the first anniversary of his passing...pretty damn cool. Nice work Tom, quite an accomplishment. http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7994436

Cool! Keep these Alps TRs coming! Some day I hope to get across the pond for some climbing, but until then the interwebs will have to do....

It looks like the slings in the photo making up the tiger tails are all static ? They make specialized via ferrata gear that could be modified slightly that would give some dynamic braking in the event of a fall....falling on static slings is likely to be pretty harsh, though you probably wouldn't die.

Thanks for the TR Steph!!! Spectacular images as usual, I can see why my dad (a retired pilot who has spent a bunch of low level time in the Cascades and beyond) wonders why I spend so much time thrashing around the bushes. Airplanes get you to the views quick and easy (though not cheap)!

Thank you for the TR- I referred to it when I was researching my solo jaunt. Excellent beta! I certainly will be back to climb Big and Last Devil, and will probably bash my way down to Newhalem to do something a little different.

Oh, and for my two cents on the list, I think you have to take into consideration how you feel on the ascent (I'm pretty sure this is what Dallas was getting at). It is much more than just the numbers- loose rock, brush, uncertain route finding, brutal approach, objective hazard, etc. play an important role. All of the factors mentioned conspire to beat you down mentally and physically on the climbs that Dallas listed. Thus peaks like J'berg, West Fury, S. Hozemeen, etc......but not something like Challenger that has a long approach, and some 5th class climbing, but is actually a walk in the park in comparison.

I am in the process of scanning all of Dallas's climbing journals/logs (spanning 50 years!!). He has lists upon lists in these little black books, I will try and see what I can find..... I would love to be able to post these online, but I am not sure what the family's wishes are at this time. Stay tuned.

On a much more serious note, I spent a good deal of time yesterday thinking of Dallas, surrounded by all the peaks he loved and knew so well. It has been a year since his passing, but he is not forgotten. RIP....

Trip: Sharkfin Tower - South Ridge/SE Face Date: 9/24/2011 Trip Report: I can't believer there aren't any TRs in the database for this fine, though small, Boston Basin gem. It might not be as impressive as some of it's big neighbors, but it certainly is a "gas" to climb and easily done in one day (meaning no permit shenanigans). Of course, though this peak is guided quite a bit, I felt honored to be led to the top by one of the finest UIAGM certified alpine guides anywhere in the world: Gordo Fausto- Given his reputation, Gordo was somewhat alarmed when we pulled up at the trailhead to find it full. He explained that in Europe it was not uncommon for his groupies to mob trailheads, delaying climbs by several hours while he signed autographs. As this was his first climb in the states, thankfully he does not yet have this complication. It is only a matter of time though. Throughout the day he demonstrated why he is such a celebrity in Europe- flawless route finding, impeccable taste in attire, and a wicked yodel meant that I was being led by a modern-day alpine master. Due to his incredible efficiency and disregard for death or injury, we arrived at the summit about 4.5 hours from the car and promptly enjoyed a proper summit meal of salami, cheese, and chocolate. After an ample hour to admire the views, some quick down climbing brought us to the first rap station and a choice: head down, or do a very steep rappel off the ridge and climb the bonus 5.9/.10 pitches described in Nelson. As the climb to this point had been a bit banal by Chamonix standards, Gordo insisted we rap and climb the impeccable slab. Though we only had time for the upper of the two pitches, it was grand- highly recommended. It had a bit of lichen so could use some more traffic- call Gordo and go for it! Here are some pictures from Gordo's North Cascades debut: "What do you mean there are no lifts?" NF of Buckner, still in fine shape in September. The "exceptional" 2nd pitch, stay right on the crest for maximum enjoyment. Boston Gl. Forbidden! Eldorado and Torment! This view reminded Gordo of his beloved Weisshorn Glacier Peak and Mt. Formidable J'Berg and Quien Sabe Gl. Looking at the lower part of the 1st and upper part of the 2nd bonus pitches. Magnifico! Changing weather on the hike out: Gear Notes: Light rack, 60m half rope, crampons, axe, Gordo Approach Notes: BB trail, break off to Quien Sabe glacier at the lower camp. Find the obvious gully (no, really) below the summit and follow it up towards the perched snowfield. Where the gully forks, stay left, then head right across the snowfield to the prominent notch. Climb near the ridge. If you want to climb the bonus 5.9/.10 pitches described in Nelson, bring rock shoes, and rap from a prominent horn at the top of the 2nd pitch.

My understanding is that it is near High Pass....with a view towards the Pleiades.

Wow, even with lots of snow, I wouldn't have thought the route to still be in good shape. Thanks for the report!