JasonG

If harder climbing is your thing, then Leavenworth is probably hard to beat except for the whole job and cost of living thing. It really depends on your profession though. On the west side, Bellingham fits your criteria somewhat well, except there isn't as much climbing in the winter. Again, jobs are hard to come by, depending, and the cost of living isn't super cheap. Which is why a jungle loving skier/pseudo climber like myself lives in Mount Vernon. The town isn't anything special, but it is centrally located and close to the best mountaineering in the lower 48. It is dirt cheap right now as well- decent houses can be found for the low 100's, and rates are ridiculously low. Crazy. Plus I am trying to get more climber types to move here, and I get a commission from the Chamber of Commerce. Kidding.

Just what I was wondering...And, how is the road this year?

I think it really depends on how accessible you want the camera to be when on route. I've found the best option for getting the highest number of high quality images is to have two cameras. Something you can pull out with one hand and take photos with on route like the s100, and a lightweight SLR (Canon T2i, etc.) with a lens or two that stays in basecamp for the low light hours, camp life, landscapes, etc. For harder routes where I will be carrying over or bivying on route, I typically just take the little camera. I've not tried the 4/3 options or slightly larger P&S with lens caps, as they seem a bit big for my tastes. For me its important to have something that I can easily strap to a pack strap or harness, and especially making sure that it isn't bulky enough to get in the way when leading.

The Nikon P310 is another option, though it lacks RAW capabilities, and has a narrower zoom range. I really feel that the s100 is the best P&S going out there right now though, it's a stellar camera.

Canon s100 is pretty much the ideal P&S to have on your harness or shoulder strap. RAW, 24mm on the wide end, manual controls, HD video, and decent optics.

This weekend!

Exactly. I've been buying Power Bar gel at our local GrocOut for several years and it always seems they are selling it right before the exp. date. I buy 6 or so boxes at a time (b/c availability is spotty) and eat them for 1+ years past the date. I can't tell a difference between the 1st and last package; but I'm not too picky either.

Here is the crown line on 4/7: This was by far the largest avalanche I have seen. The crown was mostly in the 10' range with some areas pushing 15'. It ran over 5000'! Wow.

Thanks for showing us around Mark and MattP! I'm impressed with the number of routes you and others have developed over the last few years. A very cool place with great views from all of the climbs. More people should head out and get the routes a try; the more traffic, the more better! Topos available: http://www.rcnw.net/forums/index.php?showforum=41

Wow, I'm impressed you were able to sleep in that debris field. Gave me the willies. We skied it last Saturday, I think it took us around 10 hrs RT (up climbers left, down climbers right). Bring skis next time and start early, it a great day trip- if you have skis. I think the key is to avoiding sun induced sluffage is to go up the climbers left, and come down climber's right after the sun has shifted to the east wall. That way you are always traveling on the shady side.

This time I think they will have crossed enough t's and dotted enough i's to make it happen by 2013-14. I have to hand it to the Darrington office for sticking with it (Thanks Peter!). The general public has been overwhelmingly in favor or re-opening the road (unscientific impression from reading the comments over the years), but the extreme enviros have delayed it on technicalities.

Please take the time to comment, especially if you are in favor of the road being fixed : http://www.wfl.fhwa.dot.gov/projects/wa/suiattle/ Thanks!

Just took a look at those Sum'Tec axes....very nice!

Another vote for the Grivel Air Tech Racing (or the Evo). 58cm should do well on most mountaineering routes if you are around 6'. I really, really like the Grivel pick for a classicish axe. It climbs real ice surprisingly well, as long as it isn't too steep or bulgey. Like Dan and Dane said, pair the Grivel with an ice or third tool (hammer), and you are good for any of the classic mountain "ice" routes. I have had the same combo for the last dozen years (Grivel Air tech Racing, BD Shrike hammer) and they have served me well. Although I am looking a bit dated with all the fancy curved tools in the hills these days....

That's quite an ice pitch to climb solo, with skis on your back! Impressive.

Skagit Alpine Club - Basic Mountaineering Course - Spring 2012 Climbers on the north ridge of Whatcom Peak. Ever wanted to explore the Cascade Mountains that are right in your backyard? Have you done some hiking, but would like to go past the end of the trail? Are you just a bit curious about alpine climbing, but want to learn it in a safe environment, from skilled climbers with years of experience? Well, Skagit Alpine Club is the place to start! For 50 years, we’ve been providing mountaineering instruction to residents of Northwestern Washington through our basic mountaineering course. This year we are offering a 5-week course from April 30th through June 5th. There will be classroom sessions once a week from 6:00PM to 9:00PM, with the first meeting on Monday, April 30th, and weekly meetings on Tuesday evenings after that. In addition, there will be a one-day outing on Saturday, May 5th and overnight outings the rest of the weekends. The course covers the following: o Mountaineering gear and equipment o Physical conditioning, training and nutrition o Mountain weather, snow and avalanche assessment, and basic snow travel skills o Mountaineering first-aid o Camping techniques and equipment o Map and compass/route finding o Glacier travel and crevasse rescue For more info see http://skagitalpineclub.com/mount_class.htm.[

Rob- I'm curious, do you have a desire to see all LOs in wilderness areas removed or is your position more about following the letter of the law? Or?

How did you add the photos? If you add them using the camera icon above the text box they should drop in at a much larger size.

Good idea Curt! I encourage folks to find the stewards of the LOs and volunteer. SAC has an annual work party at the Park Butte LO, which we maintain. You can check our website for details.

Especially since the LO is already rebuilt and in place. More harm would be done removing it than just leaving it be. Having talked with people on the MBSNF on this issue, including Peter Forbes, they have certainly learned their lesson. Removing the LO will accomplish nothing. If the LO had been remodeled in place, the judge wouldn't be calling for its removal. So it seems crazy that when the same endpoint is reached (albeit by not following the letter of the law) the judge is calling for it to be torn down, after significant tax monies have gone into the restoration work and legal defense. It really doesn't make any sense, but I guess judges can't be flexible?

WHAT???!!!! Common sense is dealt another blow.

Yes, it was May of 2002. I climbed Liberty Ridge a couple days later as they were helicoptering the bodies off. It was a sobering reminder. If I remember right, after the cave collapsed two of the three died after wandering and falling into a crevasse.

Agreed Dan. My experiences with bad weather in January and July on Rainier are very, very different. Summer "storms" are miserable, but winter storms are downright terrifying.

Wow.

Three to four days is just about right for most folks, if you can spare the time. Racing up and down Rainier as quickly as possible may work, but it usually isn't very fun, except on skis. Depends on your motivation I guess. Similar to Matt, I like to spend as much time as possible in the hills and enjoy it.