JasonG

Never mind

Well, the original plan was to go into the Northern Pickets for a week, but then the weather turned and our crack team of five armchair alpinists began to unravel. Then, three of us were going to head to the Winds, but we lost the third. Then, two of us were going to head to the Tetons, but our truck broke down on the way to Snoqualmie Pass and we didn't have another road worthy rig between us. Then, the two of us were going to head into Cathedral (in my beater 1991 Civic), but the weather window got too small. And so, we found ourselves in Depot Creek (carried there by my beater Civic), going after some obscure peaks on an obscure list, best not discussed in polite conversation. Lest I anger Klenke, tyrannical king of beta, this report will be short on details but long on pictures. Some of the things that stuck out to me on our trip: • As on most Cascade outings, we had the best weather on days we hiked in and out. • The approach up Depot Creek is getting more difficult with time/lack of maintenance. • Scrambling fourth class terrain in the rain and static electricity can be surprisingly exciting. • Custer really may be the most solid peak in the Cascades • "Hard" Mox may feel a lot harder than you think it should feel.... especially if you are in a cloud • "Easy" Mox doesn't seem so easy in the face of glacial recession • Anyone who has climbed Lemolo is tough as nails • Get a permit. NCNP rangers patrol up Depot Creek and Kevork may pay you a visit. (In our case this was welcome, Steve hadn't seen Kevork since the rescue on Terror in 2009 ) • You really should see the Depot Creek Falls once in your lifetime, or four times if your success rate is similar to mine. Approach: Drive up Depot Creek as far as you dare. We made it a mile with low clearance, but you could get another mile with 4WD HC. Gear: Helmet, 60m half rope, ice axe, Al crampons

I love the WA coast for kid backpacking. Lots to keep kids occupied and they're never bored. With two cars you could do a long stretch like Oil City to Third Beach: http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/toleak-point Or you could hike up to the meadows under Tomyhoi and climb to the high point under the summit. Or you could hike up to Spider Meadow and day trip up to Spider Gap (very busy with families). There are probably lots that I'm forgetting.

D A M N. Your capacity to suffer as a couple (and stay together) is most impressive. THANKS for the epic report!

Normal snow year, but the warmest spring (and fastest melt out at SnoTel sites) on record. Better luck next time!

Thanks Off, I'll have to add that route to my list, and I like your strategy.

Don't follow the cairns! Yes, after crossing the one branch of the creek coming from Stuart Lake shortly after leaving the main trail, you pretty much stay near the other fork of Mountaineers creek the whole way from the main trail. Stay on the west side of the creek, but within sight of it.

You guys are tearing it up! TFT and CNR on back to back weekends. Plus, you guys did the deproach the hard way. Nice effort! FYI, the glacier in your photo (and presumably the one you mention calving?) is the Ice Cliff Glacier. The Sherpa is one cirque to the east from there and isn't nearly as crazy looking.

Ragged Edge? True Grit? Mile High Club? Those may be pushing it a bit depending on how much rushing you want to do. You could also do the first part of Infinite Bliss on Garfield. ....maybe Silent running or Total Soul on 3 O'clock Rock in D-town. Or you could just go hiking and eat lots of chocolate and drink wine. And cheese, don't forget the cheese.

John is as solid as they come, and he's got a lot of stories. You should join him!

I'll say. That looks like quite the adventure, thanks for posting it! I especially liked all the useful detail and stunning night exposures, much appreciated!

As Max said, perfectly safe but probably less than ideal due to the size, fuzziness, and propensity to absorb water. It won't snap though, that's for sure. I have a friend that uses an old climbing rope to tow cars out of snowbanks all winter long. It sure looks like it is going to break when he steps on the gas, but it just stretches and stretches. Modern ropes are pretty amazing.

Work around failing for you as well?

Nice work! I'm glad the hats made it the whole way, it was fun to see you guys starting up the trail. Did you have to rap off a bollard to clear the 'schrund on the north side of Torment?

Thanks Don, I'm glad to hear the details of the response to the accident.

Just to be clear, ALL PLBs use the military satellite system. SPOT and InReach aren't classified as PLBs, because they use a private satellite system. To use the military system, all true PLBs go thru rigorous testing. I think anything by the two main companies (McMurdo or ACR) would be just fine.

I'll say. That pocket glacier is spooky.

You would know if you have had giardia, it is not temporary and only goes away with some heavy duty pharmaceuticals. It really is nasty. Both times have been memorable in different ways.

Sweet, I think Logan has one of the best views in the range. Glad you had good conditions and views since that is a long way to go to get shut down! I have to say you're certainly knocking them off this year.

Giardia farts really are the worst of the worst. I wish I didn't know this, but I've been reminded twice in the last 10 years or so, including last summer.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1149152/Trip_Report_Issue#Post1149152

The ACR ResQLink is another well regarded PLB. Plus with PLBs there is no subscription fee like with the SPOT or InReach.

Some discussion a short time ago: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1136049/PLB_PSA_plug There are older threads out there too that I haven't had time to dig up. Rad did an excellent review here (though a bit dated now): http://www.alpenglow.org/nwmj/10/101_Rescue.html I have a McMurdo FastFind PLB and I'm pretty biased that a PLB is the way to go over SPOT or InReach. There have been some high profile failures with the latter during emergencies since they don't use the military satellite system. The maritime industry, aviation, and the military-industrial complex all use the same network as the PLB. I don't care about two way communication when I'm in the hills, though. When I push the button I want assurance that a rescue is being initiated ASAP above all else.

Thanks Doug, that's a fine climb that I'm glad you got to experience. One of the very best that the North Cascades has to offer. David was quite the man, and is sorely missed: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1068512/1

Hi Lisa, thanks for continuing to post updates from your trip! Sorry that the site is giving you issues, could this be the problem?: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1149152/Trip_Report_Issue#Post1149152