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Lodestone

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Everything posted by Lodestone

  1. So do you think the R rating on Risky Business is warranted? Never tried the second pitch. I love the first pitch though, one of the hidden/forgotten gems at Broughton. Anyway, thanks for cleaning up P2. Chad
  2. Bill I'll be of of work at 11am sharp. Let's get out. Jimmies, Farside, Beacon, Coethedral.....you pick. I even have my gear in the truck, ready to go. Chad
  3. I'm up for it! I might get spanked pretty bad out there. I'll have to double check with my girlfriend to make sure I'm not forgetting any prior engagements and get back with confirmation this evening. Chad
  4. For what it's worth, I'll be there at five today (Silver Bullet Bluff). Partners welcome. Chad
  5. Wow, I gotta get out there. City of Rocks that is. How hard on the skin is this rock? Chad
  6. I'd like to buy a current generation, Black Diamond C4 #5. Send me a PM if you've got one to sell. Local to Portland would be ideal. Chad
  7. PM sent on the nuts and pants. Chad
  8. Anyone want to join me for some climbing after work today at Rocky Butte, around 5pm? Send me a PM. If nothing else, I'll be up at the top on the retaining wall....but I'd much rather have company and climb routes! Chad
  9. Anyone want to climb this weekend at one of the Portland crags? Sat, Sun, or Mon works for me. The weather forecast is looking good. Broughton Bluff, Carver, Ozone, trad, sport, leading, following, I'm game. Chad
  10. Thanks for the info Bill. I'm looking forward to the new edition. Not going out tonight but I'll be out at BB after work if you'd like to meet up....Gandalf's Grip is calling....(FWIW it'd be a three-some ). Chad
  11. I've also wondered about what temperatures outside of the approved range would do to the medicine. I have mine in my cragging pack and am hoping for the best. In cold weather one would probably want to keep it close to the skin. Chad
  12. Anyone heard an ETA for a 4th edition? Chad
  13. That's unfortunate that someone got hit by rock but not surprising at all. I have had several close calls from people knocking rocks down. Two weekends ago a guy sent a shoe sized rock down that landed eight feet from me. Later in the day I had another, smaller, rock graze my back. I think I'm on my last life. Chad
  14. Wow, Pinhead seems like it would be a very dicey gear climb. Chad
  15. Nice video! I witnessed Mr. Spohn do warm-up routine on the Red Wall once that was unbelievable. Up Thai Stick, down-climb (repeat three times), up Shear Stress, down-climb (repeat three times), up Mr. Bentley, down-climb (repeat three times). All sans rope. Chad
  16. I suppose so. Let me know...
  17. Shoes have been sold. Chad
  18. Hey Micha, nice climbing with you yesterday. I picked up a pair of sunglasses near Classic Crack. Are they yours? I'd be up for more after-work sessions if you're even without a partner. Chad
  19. That's what I've been using. 7mm dynamic cord is available by the foot here: http://www.canyonsandcrags.com/servlet/the-330/Accessory-Cord%2C-7mm-New/Detail I really like this setup because I can make the lanyard to exactly the length I like. The ultra small carabiners (CAMP Nano 23 or Metolius FS Mini) are really nice to use as they can be clipped into chain links other than the end link. Nice for gaining height, crowded stations, or dropping over a ledge. I used a barrel knot at the carabiner end and an overhand knot at the harness end. Chad
  20. If anyone wants to come join me at RB I'll be out there rope soloing between 5:20 and 8ish. Just look for a fixed line either on the Wizard Wall or the Warrior Wall. Chad
  21. Anyone want to squeeze a couple hours in on Friday after work? The forecast is looking good. I can be at Broughton Bluff at 5pm or Rocky Butte a little earlier. I'd be happy to show people around if they are unfamiliar with either area. Chad cornfedcarp at yahoo dot com
  22. If it's just a squeek, I wouldn't bother doing anything with them. I'm a fan of having no lubrication on cams. Certainly some are better than others, but even the lubricants recommended for cams trap dirt (with the exception of short lived graphite powder). If you decide to de-gunk your cams, try to keep the cutting agent off of the cam slings. Chad
  23. I was doing some work out at Broughton Bluff on Thursday evening. In my rush to get out of the rain, I left my climbing shoes on the ground. I'm fairly certain that I left them at the base of Spring Rock. The shoes are a resoled pair of Acopa Spectres. Please let me know if you've found them. I'm going out there tomorrow morning, maybe they'll still be there. Chad
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