Lodestone

I think I've been pronouncing his name wrong. I'm not making a strange joke. I want to get his name right. Thanks. Chad

Petzl Fuze 9.4mm x 70m. $139.94 if ordered before Thursday. http://www.rei.com/outlet/product/800196 Chad

corvallisclimb, did Alan rent a helicopter/airplane to capture these images? I've been curious as to how authors get these great topo pictures. Chad

I noticed that someone is auctioning a warthog and a few pitons on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350283111204&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT Fairly cheap and no bids yet. I know warthogs have fallen out of favor but I though that someone might want one....maybe to stake a tent with? Chad

Perfect, my GF really likes Horsethief Butte. I'd never noticed this climb but I see it now on the topo from Olson's book. Chad

Thanks, after Steve posted your trip report I was pretty excited until I read it and watched the videos. My girlfriend is a little too much of a fair weather climber to deal with the West Chimney. By the way, Tim Olson has a new book out, Gorge Classic Climbs, that has some info and a topo for this route (although your trip report has much more information). I spent a lot of time in SB1 & SB2, I ought to remember that. I'll have to to wander back on campus. The building west of PRG? Interesting. Thanks everyone. Chad

Thanks everyone. Some new ones to me and some forgotten ones. Chad

Sweet, I'll check that out. Chad

My girlfriend sometimes goes climbing with me. She seems to like climbing chimneys the most. Anyone know of a nice, mellow chimney at one the Portland area crags? Sanity Assassin at Carver has a couple feet of chimney that she likes but it's so short. Chad

Isn't there supposed to be a guidebook coming out? Chad

Anyone have experience with Mountain Soles in Portland? That's who was recommended to me (for local work). Chad

That looks like a great route. Your friend walked right up it. Thanks for posting the video. How long of a season do you get for rock climbing? Chad

Isn't Madrone supposed to be getting left alone? Chad

I don't think that is necessary or a good idea. I started climbing at this crag in 1995. At that time there weren’t any developed routes. In fact, most of the wall was overgrown, graffitied, and covered with loose rock. I concentrated on the only clean-ish looking route there at the time, what is route number 9 in P.R.C. 3rd Ed. There were some old, crude hangers on this route made of sheetmetal, affixed to the rock with masonry nails (probably an aid line). Most of these hangers pulled out of the rock face with my bodyweight when I was cleaning this route. I installed the anchor that is now at the top of this route but decided to leave it unbolted as it took protection well enough (albeit probably R rated). My partner and I decided on the name of Phaser Express because of what appeared to us to be the outline of a phaser gun in one of the indentation at the beginning of the route. The more recent route development that has happened to the left of Phaser Express is impressive and must have taken a tremendous amount of prying and pruning. It was during this new phase of route development that Phaser Express was bolted. Chad Ellars