Pete_H

Rick Perry kind of reminds me of George W, but without the brains.

Nice. Lib Crack is definitly a classic! One minor point though, John. Forbidden and environs are Skagit Gneiss, not granite. Though the rock on the West Ridge is indeed high quality!

Thanks for the report jstluise. That descent option is definitly circuitous and has the potential to be very time consuming. I hope your bivy wasn't too bad! At least Sherpa Pass is a nice spot. Look forward to your TR.

Hey Dan Thanks for the pic of the north side of Stuart, but that pic does not show Sherpa Pass which lies east of Sherpa Peak (between Sherpa peak and Argonaut). You may be confusing it with the Sherpa Glacier.

Unless you have some particular desire to go via Stuart Lake, I would recommend using the Mtneers Crk drainage to access the north side of Stuart. Its a pretty direct and quick way to go with minimal schwacking. Good bivying near the moraine at he base of Sherpa Glacier. But if you did descend from Sherpa Pass and wanted to come back to your bivy you'd have to backtrack a bit.

Sherpa Glacier didn't look like a very viable option to me last week. There was a big schrund and a lot of glacial ice. Another option is to descend from Sherpa Pass into Mountaineers Creek. Here's instructions: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1032472/Sherpa_Pass_as_a_Descent_from_#Post1032472

Diedre for sure. Also SW Rib of S Early. Snake Hike in Yos. NE Rdige of Triumph. Cat in the Hat in Red Rocks, except for the last slabby pitch. Always wanted to solo Exum on the Grand.

Nice. Such nice country. Thanks.

Originally I wanted to summit Sherpa too but the East Ridge would have been a lot of suck to descend.

Oban good

That's a fun climb. That doesn't look like bear poo though, probly goat or deer.

This past Thursday, Chris M and I climbed the CNR of Stuart starting from Mountaineers Creek TH. For the descent we traversed over to Sherpa Pass, and descended back into Mountaineers Creek regaining the climbers trail leading back to the main Stuart Lake trail. This route is a viable option for descending from Stuart to the north later in the season when Sherpa Glacier is out of condition. Our path of travel, however, was not the most efficient as we traversed the rugged south face of Sherpa Peak looking for the best way across; taking us 3 hours from the top of Stuart to Sherpa Pass. In hindsight, the best way to go would have been to directly descend the south facing gully from the notch at the base of the West Ridge of Sherpa Peak approximately 1200 vf to where it is easy to wrap around to the east under the majority of cliff bands that form the south side of Sherpa Peak. From there make a rising traverse east on treed and sandy slopes and benches until you can see Sherpa Pass; which will be about 30 minutes and approximately 300 vf higher. Continue rising traverse to the east to Sherpa Pass. From Sherpa Pass the descent was very efficient, taking us only another 2 hours to gain Stuart Lake Trail. Descend the relatively gently snow slope and talus into the upper Mountaineers Crk Basin. Follow the Talus down into the lower Mountaineers Creek Basin to where talus turns into slide alder and brush. Keep the creek on your right and you will soon rejoin the Mountaineers Creek climbers trail. There were some sucky sections through here involving dead fall, large boulders, and slide alder, but they were relatively short. If done efficiently, I would expect this descent route would take about 4 hours from the summit of Stuart back to Stuart Lake trail.

Nice job Matt Alford. Looks like a sick ski line in the right condition!

I'd try to keep at least one piece of pro between each climber. But the nature of steep snow climbing is that it can be hard to protect. If there was no good pro at all I would prefer to climb unroped so one climber doesn't pull the others off. As Ivan said - just don't fall!

I'd just have someone tie into the middle and reclip any pro to the line leading to the third.

Stunning! Nice work. At altitude too.

Some great climbing in the southeast. Hopefully you can get to some of the great sandstone in Tennessee, Kentucky, and Virginia. I've heard of good granite in Georgia too. Good luck!

Find out who administers the violations. In Leavenworth area it used to be the AG's office in Yakima, for example. It probably says on the ticket. Call them up and tell them you had a permit but forgot to display it. Hopefully they'll take care of it for you.

I'm guessing the "SAR" personnel were from Aero Methow, out of Twisp. Cool! (except for the poor dude who broke his leg).

Nice job guys!

Hold on there doc. The two indications for giving epi by EMT's in King County for suspected anaphylaxis are 1) hypotension; or 2) airway compromise. Local swelling post sting is rather common and non-life-threatening. As has been said, benedryl is probably the best thing to take.

True, but on most routes If you fall and your gear doesn't hold you may be hurt. I'm no badass climber but I thought the nut placement there is decent and the move not too difficult. Once you get the good handhold there you can get in a TCU before the crux move too.

Reading this thread, I was thinking the same thing. I don't think the start to the 2nd pitch of City Park was unacceptably dangerous before, just maybe a bit spicy. But there's a lot of spicy moves to great pitches at Index I can think of off the top of my head. Are we just going to dumb those down with convenience bolts too?

Killer. Nice job!

Would be cool to see a photo of the N Face of Dtail with where your route goes in comparison to the other routes there. Sounds and looks like its further looker's right of the other rock routes on that face.