Water

been watchin previews all week on OPB! looking forward to it! btw rebroadcast Sunday April 1st at 6:30pm I believe.

hmm.. i was in a fraternity at umich, met a few people who I liked who lived there, made friends, got recruited/rushed. Most people are surprised to know I was in one. We were a bit of the 'f-troop' of frats, a lot of engineers, a few ROTC guys, and a sprinkling of Lit/Science/Art majors. Not really any meatheads, a lot of guys who were not alpha males. any 'hazing' was pretty tame and nothing like that article, but also stupid, i am not angry about any of it, some of it was funny, it did build a sense of bond among some of us. Obviously you don't need hazing of any sort to develop a bond which is why I say it was stupid. I think today they dont even do any, the frat got small and national more involved in helping run it. We had a lot of good times. Some f'd up shiz happened, but nothing involving law or that should have involved law other than drugs. Friends with a handful of folks still, some good camaraderie. I dunno, i think a lot of the experience is what you make of it--i was coming out straight edge from an all guys jesuit high school and needed the space to let loose of that past-the somewhat wild unchecked-party environment was helpful for that, and for my development at that phase. I do think a small school, quieter, more checked environment would have made it harder for me to come out of my social shell at that time in my life. I had plenty of friends outside the house and moved out after living there for a year and a half.

well the lenticular totally cleared off the summit by around 10am.. resort skiing so i wasn't scouring the avy cast but im pretty sure it generally wasn't so good for sat.

Evolv Rex Approach Shoe - Blue/Grey womens size 9. $25 pick up/meet up in PDX, or you pay shipping. I got these for my wife 2 years ago, she has worn them 3-5 times she said-but they are too stiff and she would just rather wear her trail runners. meh. Looking to get them out of the house. here is the marketing copy for these: "Any shoe can get you to the base of a climb but the Evolv Womens Rex Approach Shoe packs the technical features to keep going. The sticky TRAX rubber outsoles include an edging platform to help you make you way on long 4th class ridges so you dont have to cover a couple thousand feet in your tight climbing shoes. Evolv used tough leather uppers and rubber toe caps to make the Rex Approach Shoe burly enough for the hike and any wide crack pitches you encounter."

today it seemed down/slow quite a bit this afternoon..

Pulleys in general - yes. But a prusik-minding pulley will generally have less problems with this. KaskadskyjKozak... I say this because I do have a prusik-minding pully and have this issue with an 8mm rope.. it 'almost' works, 'most' of the time. i know there is variable on the pully, prussik diameter, etc.. mine minds it sometimes, but within the space of any time i'm practicing with the 8mm rope it sucks it up in at least once. ADK: ahh my lack of attention to detail on the boots, yes no gaiter makes sense. Yes you can probably do fine with the 32 bag and wearing a nano and throwing the other by the feet. I've also taken my rain shell and snow pants and other items that can be 'flattened' and throw them under my sleeping pad for more insulation--gets the job done. sounds like you're accounting well for CR with the extra rope.

nice gear gaiters? ...sleep warm? (ridgerest 3/4ths..plan on pack underfoot?) two nanos works, saves weight to wear both vs a heavy one + light one.. assuming not too bulky/hows the layering? i don't have a ton of glacier/crevasse rescue background, so I try to get out and practice, which has continually lead me to the conclusion that crevasse rescue on a two person team can really be a feat to execute unless you've really got your system down and are proficient/excel with CR in a general sense. not meant as an attack just a food for thought if you're able to pick up a 3rd. which dovetails a bit into the beal rando 8mm... not sure what system you have but the skinnier and (new?) rope can lack friction in some belay devices/oft with the appropriate sized prussik for rope dia. can get pulled into pully without tending or a bachmann knot. again realize you'll be on a heavily traveled route and but stuff to make sure is covered for 'just in case' since.

JoshK, Thanks for your feedback-not long winded at all and helpful. I just got the similar advice from a pretty chill staff member at NextAdventure last evening.. he said really skis wise, demo a few more and figure out which one you like best, most people's opinion is going to be they like the skis they've skied which work for them based on their skills, predominate activity, and physical stats. His rec was find a boot that fits like a glove and you'll come to do fine on about any ski you get within reason, if you can test a few more out you may find one that is a bit more of a sweet spot. I hadn't fully thought out if I was looking more into 'wanting to tour' or 'the descent', or a good compromise. In all honesty between honing at the resort and then my next goal being more like spring-summer on things like middle/adams/hood..probably more in the camp of a heavier ski that is more enjoyable for the down than something light for distance and touring weekend. My main goal once I get more proficient is backcountry with an occasional day here or there of lift serv with wife or friends. I'm going to demo another ski (or two) this weekend at the resort, see how that goes. Trogdor, Care to point me towards some of this ubertech you're seeing/reading about? Sounds a little bit like digital cameras...the version around the corner is always revolutionary....tho it often seems incrementally. The best camera is the one you're using to take pictures.. But I appreciate the angle of thought..getting skis and bindings now doesn't do me so much without boots, esp when I want to practice skiing.. I hear you on the buying discounted now though, I'm shooting for ball park $1200-1500 for the skis/boots/bindings. I'm 5'8", 150. If you want to throw out any skis be my guest, DPS probably a bit steep side from when I've perused their site. cheers, thanks for the response

Howdy, I'm going to post a similar bit over at TAY but CC is more my haunt so I'd see what I get here too. I skied a bit when I was younger back east but hadn't for about 15 years. Went lift-serve twice over the last few years. This year I've gone a handful of times and have taken a lesson, going to take another one, and have a spring pass.. I have great balance fwiw, and can manage to get down easier blacks though it isn't graceful. That said my long-term goal is to be able to tour and get some ski descents like say middle sister, etc.. not gunning for being the honorable Mr. Helmstadter. I'm trying to buy AT gear and learn on that at the resort this year and likely next.. I'm willing to spend a bit more now so I'm not buying one alpine setup and then another AT rig just down the road. A few folks have confirmed this isn't a preposterous idea at all and is a reasonable path. I demod some K2 Wayback (174) and dynafit manaslus (169) last weekend.. the waybacks were harder to stay over the top of but I felt less demanding to turn, smoother turns..the manaslus I felt I could stay over the top of a lot better but were chattery and really required my all when turning...it was a bit icy in spots during the afternoon so may account for that. I realize being totally green to this my assessment of the skis is limited to pretty basic factors, and limited by my skill level. Wondering if the greater side-cut of the waybacks is what made the turning seem easier? Right now I have been trying on boots in PDX but it seems like the mountain shop is glutted for sizes really and I'm not sure where else to go? Worth driving up to Seattle next weekend and hitting a few stores? will check out NextgaragesaleAdventure tonite.. On the bindings side, would like to head towards dynafit based on everything I come across--skiing on them seemed fine last weekend--for me i didnt notice any difference for my skiing performance compared to alpine bindings. Suggestions for a pair of skis? I've spoke a bit with evo.com and they had some suggestions.. the guy there offered Line Prophets 98 as a good all arounder..realizing they are not exactly light, but suggesting really worrying about weight right now should be on the lower rung of importance, and I can agree with that to a point. Thanks for any tutelage-much appreciated!

i check the weather with a religious fervor out of simple fascination with the remote telemetry, web cams, NWAC, and NOAA meteorologist discussion and it all coming together. don't believe I've seen anything i'd call a climbing window in a few weeks, but maybe just me.. seeing whats on the tail end can sometimes show your window to be something with some squeeze vs slamming shut like a bank vault door..which is sure as hell what it looks like monday eve.

can you elaborate---maybe im missing something--these some TR totals or someone's tick list for summits?

I got these pants from sierra trading post a few years ago and really, really love them... but they are no longer made and currently the patoot leaks like a sieve due to having been rough with them and stupidly glissading earlier in their lifetime. I think these pants are great, in goretex XRC or whatever (2 layer I guess)...here is what they have that I would love to find in another pant 1) integrated, zip-out gaiter, with metal hook, with snaps to adjust tightness 2) internal bungie tightener just above the gaiters to make the pant tight around your calf if the gaiter did push up 3) snaps on bottom cuff of pants to tighten or loosen as needed 4) full length size zips (would accept just vents) 5) waistband snap closure at hip, with suspenders. Can drop seat while keeping suspenders up.. 6) slim fit.. not too baggy, but not tight, could put a pair of puffys under them. use: skiing (resort and touring), climbing suggestions?

i absolutely love the idea.. but if you were to cross check the listed weights from manufacturer's sites with the actual, depending on the item it is off from an ounce to a pound.. I sometimes weigh my gear and a lot of manufacturers are notorious for having way off ball-park weights, whether due to laziness or weighing M vs owning L or S. I guess it helps to give you a ballpark weight of your gear but if you're really counting grams ballpark is kind of the antithesis. glad to see some cottage industry gear there like ULA and tarptent

same goes the winter one there is a great pic of colin and it clearly says RAB on the pants. i think it is a 'meh' - in some respects you do yourself a favor to have good company, assuming the pata product is the showcased item.

i'll chime in as admittedly more gearminded than climb-prowess-capable than i'd like: a vast majority of it comes down to the user. I recall somewhere in Virginia on the AppyTrail a buncha folks a shelter one evening chatting about tarptent and granitegear backpack..and this light weight and that awesome gear yada yada.. meanwhile Bryan and Glynn, quiet types who stuck to themselves, identical twins from rural TN or West Virginia who were hiking with a 85L Osprey pack and 1 monster army Alice pack..sharing a wool blanket and heavy foam for bedding..they were bummed that their el cheapo can opener broke cause most a their food was canned and not dehydrated (yes...carrying canned food for 60-80 miles stretches). Those two guys were dirt poor, never complained, always positive, had ancient HEAVY gear, and finished the entire trail without a problem. clothes wise you can get by cheaply if you are mindful. If you're huffing it hard uphill in a misty 100% humidity cloud.. when its 36 degrees $25rubber jacket and a $400 goretex/event shell.. the 'breathability' factor only goes as far as what venting is available.. you'll be at the nearly the same level of discomfort with both. That said you can find 'ideal' conditions that the more expensive piece will be more comfortable, but, it is highly unlikely to make/break your experience in any discernible factor. What you ate, how much you slept, and how in shape you are, and your mental disposition affect the vast majority of your experience of 'things working' when it comes to your personal gear/choices. My experience is the trend is most 'more expensive' gear does seem to last a bit longer. Not all, and certainly there are exceptions and spectacular failures. Cheaper stuff does tend to have smaller margins of lifetime/abuse potential, but there are spectacular successes too..where a $15-50 item outperforms and outlasts all others. For weekend warriors the failure of a singular clothing item has about nill result in your success or failure. But if I'm doing some expedition/multi-day far from retreat type thing, I do want gear that I feel confident about. that said there are certain margins where good gear/bad gear can certainly matter. A crappy tent not made for the occasion being subjected to 35mph+ sustained and 50mph+ gusts above treeline indeed is liable to fail. I often use a bi-mart bought gardening kneel pad as my 'foam' sitpad. A heavy backpack is just a heavy backpack. A sleeping pad R value is just an R value, and the difference may be weight. A cheapo synthetic sleeping bag is just heavier and bulkier than the $400+ 800-900fill power down equivalent. A cheap gas stove is probably as reliable as an expensive one or MSR reactor, maybe more. Its just heavier and maybe slower. Goggles/glasses are just goggles/glasses.. a goodwill wool hat or a $35 MH windstopper hat lined with special fleece... is just a piece of textile to keep your noggin warm. It has been my impression that the strong (and somewhat stoic type, it seems) can get by with pretty much whatever, so long as the basics are securely covered-with nary batting an eye. Their mind is not on the flextrek 37,000,000,000,000's augmentation system, hypercooling spectral channels, or the dynamic-fiber ergo jerkmeoff system.. ..there is often sooooo much goddamn stupid marketing hype about gear each year. it is why i love Feathered Friends/Western Mountaineering and a handful of other cottage/shoulder gear companies that just have a design that works and don't try to glitz me over every season with the diarrhea pull-tab they added that is trying to make me think I can actually climb stronger. i wish those fuckers would sell good conditions, good weather, good partners, and days off work.

bstach: canada has all their topos online for free: http://atlas.nrcan.gc.ca/site/english/maps/topo/map

btw dont forget your WA discover pass (barf) if attempting hamilton.

personally i always go with an archwood product if I'm going for 90+ liters.

so $150/tool..yea?

price on the hammer?

you telling me they had the acme as zip off or this 'rei endeavor' existed back when as a schoeller zip off? i guess either way thats pretty rad. i know schoeller is primo but my experience with any decent softshell for pants has generally been fine--some slightly better or worse than others but not by so discernible as to be dissatisfying margins. that said the rei endeavor material really works well..only ever gets wet a touch right at the cuff if no gatiers and very wet snow.

Kaskadskyjkozak, http://www.rei.com/product/808791/rei-endeavor-convertible-pants-mens-32-inseam actually been a godsend in my book, I love'm..maybe over east where it is humid 24/7 in the summer you want light nylon shorts etc.. but i have found them great year around in cascades-brisk AM up in mnts in summer. winter dont really need to unzip at all but get the job done well, pockets all zip, only occasionally notice tiny bit of snow going into gap where legs zip on.

don't bother looking at either of the rab 'bivy-tent' options. I'm 5'8" and have the summit mountain (the bigger of the two) -- for me it is snug. two 6 footers would really, really hate it/need to be deeply in love. sorry it isn't a suggestion but at least helps you eliminate that one if it was on your radar since it is in the 4season bomber bivy-tent category.

Dunno, find I can spend unlimited time one-on-one with my wife and not go nuts, not feel like i need to 'get away' really--got confirmation of this pretty early on in our relationship. We just have fun overall no matter whats going on when we're together, even if there are points of stress or momentary conflict. No doubt that played a big role having experienced prior relationships where I needed 'space'. She doesn't 'climb' per se-she's acrophobic-but manages to do the walk-up volcanoes, hikes and backpacks aplenty, snow camps occasionally, top rope at the gym. Gives me plenty of latitude and full understanding to go out with the guys for more serious climbing or snow-adventure. best way to introduce her to anything new outdoors wise/risk wise is with lots of patience, encouragement, and low pressure. pressure, frustration, lack of positive feedback are quick ways to shut things down--imo, girl or guy.