Water

Skis came today, bindings tomorrow. While there are some 'issues' with the Radical ST, they seem to impact a relatively small amount of users and are not a compromise in safety (like the stainless sabertooth rumblings). Question for Portlanders.. Recommended place to get them mounted? Tualatin REI is across the street from my work and have said they do dynafit mounts. It is super convenient for me to drop them there than driving downtown or to east side. But rather have a good mount if there is a hairs diff in anyones book going to mnt shop/eomc/us outdoor thanks--looking forward to getting out with my own gear this weekend, should have gotten into all this a year or two ago1

real sad mostly, what a shit. While I never seriously worry, unfortunately in this day and age the thought crosses my mind whenever I leave a camp setup and go off for the day, unless camped high on the flanks of a volcano. My renters insurance actually covers this assuming a certain value is met (think it is $300 or $500..)

1) The advice here is free and opinion, not guide-on-retainer everything said is backed up with a guarantee. On everything, you need to ultimately decide for yourself--whether snowshoes, anchor types, poles, etc. 2) Poles. Entirely opinion.. but I use them all the time, nice on the up, nice on the down. Useful as anchors, don't weigh much. But put snow baskets on or don't bother taking them. A single 3 piece pole can be deconstructed into 3 anchors, for instance. Some people like 1 pole--myself I take 2 and stash them or collapse them and put on pack when I have to. 3) a shovel is an invaluable tool to have when on snow. And as a safety/emergency tool to dig a snow cave/pit/trench to protect/reduce exposure. 4) Can you go out for a weekend and test your equipment on the snow and maybe go up a small hill or lesser peak? You can have carbon fiber titanium uber everything but really the greatest too and value is your brain and knowing (experiencing) how things actually work prior to 'needing' them to work. Not just 'in theory'. Obviously a test-run is not a pre-req to success on Shasta but all things equal.. it is a bit like planning to run some rapids in a kayak or canoe without just running the kayak/canoe on some flat water or a relaxed river to get a sense of how it performs. I think if you can get a test run or two in you will contribute to a greater chance of success on shasta and do yourself a big favor. Less items to worry about, less things to focus on that are secondary to the climbing itself.

that is bizzaro. REIs around here sell the maps individually as do any other gear shops that stock them. I don't know what your shipping would be.. call up REI in eugene or bend about the green trails maps for 3 sis for instance and ask. The geographics one for 3 sisters i think is probably better than separate green trails, imo. http://www.amazon.com/Three-Sisters-Wilderness-Area-Map/dp/078341384X even has a guy with an ice ax on it, so you know it is legit. hehe - only thing that sucks is it is paper that can deteriorate easily unlike those trails illustrated maps which are quite nice.

Sig... you're going solo to Shasta or will you have a partner? 4 pickets is crazy weight and totally overkill imo! save yourself the cost and more importantly the weight. myself I bring 7 snow stakes-that holds my 4 corners and 3 side-wall guy lines, then 2 small crapper stakes for two little spots on either side of my tent. I'll use poles and other items if I need more guy lines (off the 4 vertices on each corner). I could probably pare down the snowstakes and use items I bring..maybe next trip I'll forgo and see how it works out. cheers

hard to know for sure. First week of July you'll still have a lot of snow. Some places...like the upper part of S. Sister's S. Ridge..... North Sister's SE Ridge..etc never accumulate much snow since they are narrow/it blows off..I have seen those be sections of scree even when I was on snow galore down lower in the trees. But early July no, to my knowledge does not entitle all those to be raging scree climbs of the variety you'd find if you came in later August or September. http://www.wcc.nrcs.usda.gov/snow/ all snotels on a tehgoogle map: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=http://www.wcc.nrcs.usda.gov/ftpref/data/water/wcs/earth/snotelwithlabels.kmz&sll=45.467836,-108.446045&sspn=5.369953,8.712158&ie=UTF8&t=h&z=4 maps...maps... hmm.. there is a geographics map that has all 3 sisters. additionally Green Trails for cascades. Not sure about Shasta and Lassen. If you have access to a printer you can use http://caltopo.com/ or other map products to print a custom section.

I don't think the boots will help you to cover snow covered terrain better than snowshoes. You will need skis too. But you could give it a try. if i didn't know better this is a marmot-parody of me since I just went through this process and have about the same foot dimensions As a size 9-9.5 street/hiking, I tried on a lot of boots and 26.5 was the size of most that seemed like the best match. I have a flat foot that splays when weighted, but otherwise low volume and narrow heel. I ended up with Garmont Axons (older model)..they just fit the best overall. Narrower boots lead to foot cramping within about 15 minutes of having them on.. probably could be worked on to improve that but outta the box the axons felt good. I am pretty sure I tried on zome ZZero4s and still they didnt feel as good as the ol axon. Garmont Radiums which I think Axons upgraded to..had much more volume for my foot so they were a no go. good luck trying much on right now, things are really picked over, but good prices abound. brands (not necessarily good): garmont scarpa black diamond la sportiva (recommend the STRATOS EVO for you) happy hunting

probably be out w/ group of 3 to do leuths Fri nite/Sat AM. thinking outta the lot around 2ish, buffer time/dig a pit on the west side of zeee iLL saddle. full moon so should be plenty-o-light. ill say hi if i see you ben

Brandon, If this is going to live in your pack, I don't think the EXTRA 12oz is worth getting something other than paclite. The Paclite will work. It just doesn't breath well and isn't as durable is what I've read at a wide range of places on the net. FWIW my first main climbing partner had a basic paclite jacket (no pit zips) that did the job for him in all conditions from backpacking to climbing in 5 degrees in december to being in the sun in june on south sister.. and all between, he never complained a bit. so, take it with a grain of salt as far as the poo-poo on paclite. contrary to millions of dollars of marketing, if you are very physically active in any hard shell or almost any softshell, you will feel hot, will sweat, and will feel moist/clammy. same goes for backpacks that keep that gap of space and put mesh on your back instead of the backpad-it aint any magical air conditioner. Significant improvements over a fully poly/rubber rain coat. Relatively minor hair One thing to consider... with your REI dividend..not sure your financial setup but you can get that money back as cash in July. I know it can be easy to focus on using the dividend and 20% to get the 'item i most need' from REI.. but their selection is often pretty weeded over w/ the sale/dividend and such. I guess something to weigh if you have the financial liberty to look elsewhere.

a friend had the mont blanc boots and they looked pretty burly, reminded me of my lowa mnt experts kinda. That said they didnt fit his foot worth a darned and he got hambergered on the shins and heels after a pretty minimal climb in the snow. Then again there is a lot you can do with insoles, lacing, and socks to help mitigate if you have a generally good fit.

i have never heard good stuff about paclite but maybe it has changed over a few years. It is light but I consider it the red-headed stepchild of brand-name w/b laminates. If options are available I'd choose performance shell, pro shell, eVent, or polartec neowhatever over paclite. You're on track to upgrade from a precip which can be fine in the summer or nicer spring days, but the DWR on them goes quick and they're kind of a cheapo-get the job done just 'ok'-shell. I had one for a number of years. Not sure if you have a line on a great price or something but anything from Arc'teryx is generally needlessly more $$$ in my opinion. Though often well made with a stand-up warranty department, so it isn't entirely money for naught. For just basic snow climbing in all seasons I'd say go with what fits and has the features you like. Are you planning on throwing a puffy under it or over it? Dane (I think) had some interesting blog posts on that.. Pit zips are ++. I have an eVent jacket I generally love that pans it is so breathable it doesn't need pitzips. I beg to differ, even some softshells damn well need them when you're moving hard pitzips are the best way to quickly dump heat. But they add weight. If money is no object turn your gaze upon westcomb, they make a great range of shells in different weights and combos with pitzips/or not. Really even if it meets basic needs and you're having trouble choosing between a few, go with your favorite color.

kaiman, I'll take a stab without diving into it too much. Summer in the NW 'reliably' starts after 4th of july. As in if I was having a friend visit for a week to get outdoors, I'd probably err towards making the plans for July over June (for weather predictability). I like June more for snow conditions though (more of it) weather aside. But central OR does seem to get off easier esp that time of year--more likely to have better conditions in June to the south than the north (you're correct). I can't dig in now but do a search for snotel stuff-Oregon Cascades got a lot this past month so above say 4500ft there is average or above average snowpack I believe.

Thanks for the help here. Ended up with Garmont Axons.. they are heavier than dynafit stuff, absolutely.. but they fit best of what I tried on (i have a very flat foot the splays out a bit wide when I weight it, lower volume, narrow heel)... They were a steal as well being last year's model. I'm happy with it as a place to start as I was willing to spend what I needed to have comfort, it was a happy surprise at the register when they range up bunches below the price the guy thought they were when I was trying them on. I've been on tgr tay and a handful of sites and just need to get some damn skis. I demod some nanuqs at 177 (a bit long but all they had) this weekend.. overall happy but i'm sure i was not able to fully utilize them in the pow.. more fun than the waybacks or the manaslus I tested, but that could be my ability improving. Anyways my taste and preference for what I like just isn't refined to make researching skis more do anything to help me..so I am thinking of getting either of these for a hair under $400. At that point if I hate either I don't have heart burn paying for a ski that meets my needs and prefs more fully once I've actually established them. Line Prophet 90 (172cm).. heavier, going to hold up better to learning curve mistakes and physical abuse, geared more towards resort G3 Saint (170).. cosmetic blemish.. lighter weight and more BC appropriate probably. maybe more to grow into as a ski. I'd like to just order some damn skis today and be done with it. Any thoughts/suggestions of the two? next up.. which dynafit bindings..though the 2012 model redesigns keep seeming to have minor issues pop up on wildsnow? then everyone seems to pimp those plum bindings too.. thanks

there is no public transit other than a taxi? that would take you from hood to trout lake. btw from trout lake to climbing is still another ~20-30 minutes of driving. Your best bet on any transportation stuff is someone with a car, or renting a car.

that Rab Latok Mountain is an updated rendition of the Rab Summit Mountain. Looks like they added 10cm width, 5cm length, and 10cm height. I'd have to check one out in person to really see how it spaces and all but the summit mountain is a tight fit and i would not recommend it for 6footer/(s). I'm 5'8" and it is fine. I've shared it toe-head with someone 5'11 or 6ft and it was ok since we were good partners but it was tight, not much extra room for stuff if you've got puffy winter bags too, they'll be touching the walls plenty...which i dont worry about for me since my bag has a w/p shell

gregory S., The Mountain Experts are EXCELLENT boots I've used for the past 3 years and probably 700 miles on them all told. BUT..yes spend the time to figure your boots out. The advice that if they don't feel good to begin with is really stellar. Anytime I've bought a boot, hiking, mountaineering, skiing, etc..I spend a long time and try a lot of options, will temporarily have a huge credit card bill from Zappos if I have to... but I've really never had a blister, this includes 1500miles on the appy trail and maybe 1500 miles since I've lived out here. And I have a total swamp foot..hell my feet sweat when I wear sandles--but a good boot fit and liner sock negates the blister causing friction. good luck, keep trying boots on. I too am a fan of trying to use any of that REI dividend/coupon/etc...if you think you have a good fit from there the plus side is you can return the boot to them if it doesn't work for you. They purvey this idea even when I've been trying on boots there in the past. But if they have nothing that fits and feels 'great' you should go to other stores and try other stuff on, really.

been watchin previews all week on OPB! looking forward to it! btw rebroadcast Sunday April 1st at 6:30pm I believe.

hmm.. i was in a fraternity at umich, met a few people who I liked who lived there, made friends, got recruited/rushed. Most people are surprised to know I was in one. We were a bit of the 'f-troop' of frats, a lot of engineers, a few ROTC guys, and a sprinkling of Lit/Science/Art majors. Not really any meatheads, a lot of guys who were not alpha males. any 'hazing' was pretty tame and nothing like that article, but also stupid, i am not angry about any of it, some of it was funny, it did build a sense of bond among some of us. Obviously you don't need hazing of any sort to develop a bond which is why I say it was stupid. I think today they dont even do any, the frat got small and national more involved in helping run it. We had a lot of good times. Some f'd up shiz happened, but nothing involving law or that should have involved law other than drugs. Friends with a handful of folks still, some good camaraderie. I dunno, i think a lot of the experience is what you make of it--i was coming out straight edge from an all guys jesuit high school and needed the space to let loose of that past-the somewhat wild unchecked-party environment was helpful for that, and for my development at that phase. I do think a small school, quieter, more checked environment would have made it harder for me to come out of my social shell at that time in my life. I had plenty of friends outside the house and moved out after living there for a year and a half.

well the lenticular totally cleared off the summit by around 10am.. resort skiing so i wasn't scouring the avy cast but im pretty sure it generally wasn't so good for sat.

today it seemed down/slow quite a bit this afternoon..

Pulleys in general - yes. But a prusik-minding pulley will generally have less problems with this. KaskadskyjKozak... I say this because I do have a prusik-minding pully and have this issue with an 8mm rope.. it 'almost' works, 'most' of the time. i know there is variable on the pully, prussik diameter, etc.. mine minds it sometimes, but within the space of any time i'm practicing with the 8mm rope it sucks it up in at least once. ADK: ahh my lack of attention to detail on the boots, yes no gaiter makes sense. Yes you can probably do fine with the 32 bag and wearing a nano and throwing the other by the feet. I've also taken my rain shell and snow pants and other items that can be 'flattened' and throw them under my sleeping pad for more insulation--gets the job done. sounds like you're accounting well for CR with the extra rope.

nice gear gaiters? ...sleep warm? (ridgerest 3/4ths..plan on pack underfoot?) two nanos works, saves weight to wear both vs a heavy one + light one.. assuming not too bulky/hows the layering? i don't have a ton of glacier/crevasse rescue background, so I try to get out and practice, which has continually lead me to the conclusion that crevasse rescue on a two person team can really be a feat to execute unless you've really got your system down and are proficient/excel with CR in a general sense. not meant as an attack just a food for thought if you're able to pick up a 3rd. which dovetails a bit into the beal rando 8mm... not sure what system you have but the skinnier and (new?) rope can lack friction in some belay devices/oft with the appropriate sized prussik for rope dia. can get pulled into pully without tending or a bachmann knot. again realize you'll be on a heavily traveled route and but stuff to make sure is covered for 'just in case' since.

JoshK, Thanks for your feedback-not long winded at all and helpful. I just got the similar advice from a pretty chill staff member at NextAdventure last evening.. he said really skis wise, demo a few more and figure out which one you like best, most people's opinion is going to be they like the skis they've skied which work for them based on their skills, predominate activity, and physical stats. His rec was find a boot that fits like a glove and you'll come to do fine on about any ski you get within reason, if you can test a few more out you may find one that is a bit more of a sweet spot. I hadn't fully thought out if I was looking more into 'wanting to tour' or 'the descent', or a good compromise. In all honesty between honing at the resort and then my next goal being more like spring-summer on things like middle/adams/hood..probably more in the camp of a heavier ski that is more enjoyable for the down than something light for distance and touring weekend. My main goal once I get more proficient is backcountry with an occasional day here or there of lift serv with wife or friends. I'm going to demo another ski (or two) this weekend at the resort, see how that goes. Trogdor, Care to point me towards some of this ubertech you're seeing/reading about? Sounds a little bit like digital cameras...the version around the corner is always revolutionary....tho it often seems incrementally. The best camera is the one you're using to take pictures.. But I appreciate the angle of thought..getting skis and bindings now doesn't do me so much without boots, esp when I want to practice skiing.. I hear you on the buying discounted now though, I'm shooting for ball park $1200-1500 for the skis/boots/bindings. I'm 5'8", 150. If you want to throw out any skis be my guest, DPS probably a bit steep side from when I've perused their site. cheers, thanks for the response

Howdy, I'm going to post a similar bit over at TAY but CC is more my haunt so I'd see what I get here too. I skied a bit when I was younger back east but hadn't for about 15 years. Went lift-serve twice over the last few years. This year I've gone a handful of times and have taken a lesson, going to take another one, and have a spring pass.. I have great balance fwiw, and can manage to get down easier blacks though it isn't graceful. That said my long-term goal is to be able to tour and get some ski descents like say middle sister, etc.. not gunning for being the honorable Mr. Helmstadter. I'm trying to buy AT gear and learn on that at the resort this year and likely next.. I'm willing to spend a bit more now so I'm not buying one alpine setup and then another AT rig just down the road. A few folks have confirmed this isn't a preposterous idea at all and is a reasonable path. I demod some K2 Wayback (174) and dynafit manaslus (169) last weekend.. the waybacks were harder to stay over the top of but I felt less demanding to turn, smoother turns..the manaslus I felt I could stay over the top of a lot better but were chattery and really required my all when turning...it was a bit icy in spots during the afternoon so may account for that. I realize being totally green to this my assessment of the skis is limited to pretty basic factors, and limited by my skill level. Wondering if the greater side-cut of the waybacks is what made the turning seem easier? Right now I have been trying on boots in PDX but it seems like the mountain shop is glutted for sizes really and I'm not sure where else to go? Worth driving up to Seattle next weekend and hitting a few stores? will check out NextgaragesaleAdventure tonite.. On the bindings side, would like to head towards dynafit based on everything I come across--skiing on them seemed fine last weekend--for me i didnt notice any difference for my skiing performance compared to alpine bindings. Suggestions for a pair of skis? I've spoke a bit with evo.com and they had some suggestions.. the guy there offered Line Prophets 98 as a good all arounder..realizing they are not exactly light, but suggesting really worrying about weight right now should be on the lower rung of importance, and I can agree with that to a point. Thanks for any tutelage-much appreciated!

i check the weather with a religious fervor out of simple fascination with the remote telemetry, web cams, NWAC, and NOAA meteorologist discussion and it all coming together. don't believe I've seen anything i'd call a climbing window in a few weeks, but maybe just me.. seeing whats on the tail end can sometimes show your window to be something with some squeeze vs slamming shut like a bank vault door..which is sure as hell what it looks like monday eve.