dennyt

I've got ~98% range of motion in my left shoulder after getting it fixed in 2008. Really good PT is key, it was about 30% range of motion after 6 weeks in a sling. I've got 120% range of motion in my right shoulder...

SuperTopo - photos of bad fixed gear

Awesome, I saw your tracks from Prusik and wondered who was taking the scenic route

I did this route Saturday, and did the rappells straight down the North face onto the steep snow. Thankfully it had all slid 1-2 days prior... but the axe & boots were necessary to traverse back to the balanced rock. If I had it to do again, I'd do the rappells & traverses further West. [video:youtube]

Yeah the arthrogram made my shoulder feel crappy for a day or two. It gets better. I had a bankart repair and was back on easy toproping in the gym after ~12 weeks. Full strength took a while but 4 months is pretty doable with good PT's.

Well done! I'm heading that way tomorrow...

Send me a PM with your address and I'll email you the spreadsheet. Testing with the canisters in an ice water bath would be a fun variation, too.

I agree with Noah, you should boil pot after pot until the canister dies. The Reactor is supposed to have a regulator, so it should perform close to your prediction. The Jet Boil doesn't, so its performance should go down as the canister empties & the pressure goes down. For interpreting the data, I would use a spreadsheet & make a graph. The horizontal axis would be liters of water to boil, the vertical axis would be total weight. Each stove starts out as [stove + pot + first fuel canister], then stays there until you get to however many liters it will boil with one canister. Then it bumps up by one canister. You should get different stair-step curves for each stove. Melting snow is the more useful, but harder to control, experiment. Because canister temperature affects performance, try to do the tests in a controlled environment. Thanks for doing this! I love testing.

Trip: The Mighty Tooth - South Face Date: 5/30/2010 Trip Report: I took my new helmet cam for a stroll up The Tooth on Sunday: [video:youtube] Great views! [video:youtube] The sun kept us warm through the thin mist. Gear Notes: Single rack to 3, 60m 1/2 doubled-up. Approach Notes: Booted it from Alpental at 8am. The snow was icy in the trees, and soft in the upper basin. The moats are growing to the left of the Pineapple, it's getting a little spicy. In fact, from pitch 2 we saw another party approaching. Then we heard a girl yell, sliding snow, and a guy's voice. We later saw boot tracks heading downhill... The glissades were sweet! All of the trail-side crap melting out was not.

Awesome video Aaron! Holy crap!

Wow, that's wonderful!

Orthopedics International has a few good shoulder docs. After 10 dislocations, Dr. Pedegana did my left shoulder in 2008. It's bomber. My right shoulder just started acting up again, so I went back - turns out he retired, but Dr Roberts seems to be very competent. Also, I recommend Pioneer Physical Therapy in the Smith Tower. Those guys rule, they get it, I was back climbing easy stuff 12 weeks after surgery. And the maintenance work has made me a lot stronger. http://www.orthopedics-intl.net/physicians/index.html http://www.pioneersportsphysicaltherapy.com/

The Munter rappell is easier to remember than a carabiner brake, at least for me. And I use sports tape to turn a non-locker into a "locked" bail biner. Ghetto!

Bump... been using the "Past 24 Hours" button lately. First page is awesome (no spray), but the 2, 3, 4 links at the bottom are... the same content as the first page, but with spray interleaved. Weak. Past 24 hours: ubbthreads.php?ubb=activetopics&range=1&type=p&nospray=1 Next page: ubbthreads.php/activeposts/1/2 I can't even figure out a way to get to a spray-free page 2. Any ideas?

My first rope was a Petzl Zephyr 10.3. It got chopped in Ouray and then again after a whipper (soft spot). It got super fuzzed-up, like ridiculously fuzzy, in 1 year's weekend-warrior use. Would not recommend. Now it's covered in sap and dedicated to arborism. So far I love my Edelweiss Onsight 9.9 with the bi-weave. Picked up a pair of the 8.5 Sharps (doubles), stretchy & twisty but so far so good.

Lots of stuff was dry today on the far side at 38. Can't go tomorrow, have fun!

The Kropp accident Vantage was a bit of a war zone this weekend. The dogs were especially bad, young pups venturing off-trail and starting talus slides onto the lower tier. I heard some people went for the Torres del Plumas traverse...

Had surgery on my left shoulder 3/2008. Dr. Pedegana with Orthopedics International, did a great job (arthroscopic). PT with Pioneer Physical Therapy - those guys rocked. I think I was out of my sling in 6 weeks, and climbing about 10 weeks post surgery. Full range of motion, I've had a couple partial dislocations because of a hill-sachs lesion (dent in the head of the humerus from 10+ dislocations), but nothing tore. For specific exercises, they had me do: Internal & External rotation on a cable machine or rubber band "Baseball throw" internal & external rotation with a cable machine or rubber band Bench rows Pushups, Pullups I was never one to lift weights, but they told me I had to keep this up if I was going to keep climbing. I feel solid now, even stronger because of the weights. Get on it! Oh, and don't blow your feet with a sinker hand behind a flake, like on reptiles & amphetamines. That sucked.

The last two weekends were good, except last Sunday was a bit wet.

Most parties don't bring a rope. It's a pretty straightforward snow slog. When I was there in May of 2007, somebody postholed 20 feet back from the edge, and could see daylight under their feet. Yikes! I hope he keeps blowing that whistle, maybe it will help him stay warm

Bunch Of Phonies Mourn J.D. Salinger CORNISH, NH—In this big dramatic production that didn't do anyone any good (and was pretty embarrassing, really, if you think about it), thousands upon thousands of phonies across the country mourned the death of author J.D. Salinger, who was 91 years old for crying out loud. "He had a real impact on the literary world and on millions of readers," said hot-shot English professor David Clarke, who is just like the rest of them, and even works at one of those crumby schools that rich people send their kids to so they don't have to look at them for four years. "There will never be another voice like his." Which is exactly the lousy kind of goddamn thing that people say, because really it could mean lots of things, or nothing at all even, and it's just a perfect example of why you should never tell anybody anything.

O rly?

Canon SD880is, wider angle lens than most point & shoots. Dropped it out of my pocket rapping off Forbidden... fell 40 feet, bounced, stayed on the ridge, still fully functional

Is that clamp-on upper grip rest on the Ergo going to be available separately? I'd like to throw those on my Nomics...

This is tempting, do you have any more info on the festival? I can't find much online.