dennyt

"Your search for "ice screw" returned 1 product Petzl Charlet Caritool Ice Screw Holder" They also sell ascenders and daisies, but not etriers.

I got mine 4 years ago for $2400 with 135k on the clock. It's at 212k now. No problems with the 4wd whatsoever. It's gone through some brakes & timing belts & a new radiator, starter, and alternator. All of this can be done at home. Avoid the automatics (no power, horrible MPG) and the turbos (blown head gaskets as a rule).

The Loyales have 1.8L engines, 90HP. With 2 people it'll do 55 up Snoqualmie pass in 4th gear; with 3-4 people and gear it's more like 50 in 3rd gear. It'll do 75+ on the flats no problem. It used to get 26-28mpg when I floored it everywhere, now it's averaging 34 because I'm driving the speed limit, coasting down hills, and not idling. It helps to pull the AC fuse in winter so you can run the defogger without turning on the AC, which drags on the engine a bit. I also pulled the clutching fan for the winter. The electric fan is still there. And I pulled the power steering pump, who needs it? It's not so bad if you drain & plug the lines, I can still get into & out of parking spots with coffee in one hand... did I mention no cupholders?

I'm driving a '94 Subaru Loyale wagon, the last of the old boxy ones. It gets 30mpg all-around, and I just got 36 on a round trip to Portland (with a few tricks). The lighter weight helps (2600lbs vs. 3600 for the outbacks), as does the part-time 4wd. It's FWD until you push the button, then it's 4wd with a locked center diff and open front and rear diffs. The older ones, pre-1988 I think, had 4-low. Of course, it doesn't have airbags, side impact beams, ABS, cruise control, or cupholders. Sleeping in the back is doable, but not roomy. They need new timing belts every 60K miles, but if one breaks it won't ruin the engine. And they're cheap, $2k around here. As my only car, it's a great compromise between highway MPG and utility for every-weekend climbing/skiing/backpacking/biking trips. I'm always taking 3-4 people to the hills, and it's just barely big enough (slow & light?). I could afford a nicer / safer / bigger car, but this one gets the job done, so I'll keep it for a while.

Fixed the garage door at my girlfriend's place. Did timing belts & other car work to keep the adventure wagon going for another helluvalongtime.

I've got a repaired left shoulder and an injured but unrepaired right shoulder. Multiple dislocations on each. My routine is: Pushups, Dips, Pullups Cable machine: internal & external rotation, posterior rotation, one-armed pull-downs Free-weights: bench rows. http://www.elements4health.com/images/stories/exercises/onearmdumbbellrow.jpg Don't do the military press, I've heard it's bad for shoulders. See a doctor and a PT for more specific recommendations. Get really good with your feet, half the time I've hurt my shoulders it was from blown feet with my arms in a bad position. Become aware of your "safe" range of motion, and work around it.

tl;dr Needs a summary.

West Face variation on Monkey Face, two fun start options 5.7 or 5.8, and you can finish two different ways out of the mouth of the monkey. 5.7 if you go straight up or an exciting 5.8 rightward traverse if you take the Monkey Off My Back variation.

We can rebuild her. But seriously - what a horrific experience that must have been. I'm glad you got out safely, and you still have both feet! Rest up, and if you haven't yet, read Kelly Cordes' blog, starting here: http://kellycordes.wordpress.com/2010/02/05/bad-breaks/

After watching that video a while ago, I switched from a spectra/nylon sling with a knot in it, to the Mammut belay sling. It's fat nylon, with two full-strength clipping points, and it's way less bulky than a PAS. It's also cheap, and 2nd ascent has them. http://www.backcountry.com/mammut-belay-sling-polyamid-sewn-runner-19mm (polyamide = nylon http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nylon)

It's good first aid practice. Don't remove impaled items in the field.

Great photos!

Wow, that last photo is amazing!

What did they have to say about that approach?

East side if you like dry weather & having republicans for neighbors; Wet side if you don't mind driving to the mountains.

Litterbug.

Let those find fault whose wit's so very small, They've need to show that they can think at all; Errors, like straws, upon the surface flow; He who would search for pearls, must dive below. --John Dryden

Yup, I stashed a picket & nylon sling overnight, came back the next morning and the sling was chewed most of the way through.

This is my new favorite - the Aero Press. Not quite espresso, but way better than any press or filter. A little big, but light & easy to clean. Love it. This review got me started.

7/21, the flat part of the Inspiration glacer you have to cross. No sagging, but cracks are opening up. (this one's prettier)

I've heard one story of a second falling there & being hauled up with a z-pulley. Happened 1-2 summers ago. PG rating and call it good?

Lee was one of the best climbers I knew. You'll never meet a more humble, kind, funny person. He was a great storyteller, too. I'll never forget his account of a recent climbing trip with Beckey. RIP buddy - you will be missed.

Claimed, thanks!

Colin's Blog Says: I'm guessing he tied into both ends of the rope, clipped a bottom anchor into the middle point of the rope, and clipped the anchored strands of rope to himself with an autolocking belay device. Then fed out enough slack to get a few moves, and climbed, and fed out more slack. At the end of a pitch, he untied one end of the rope, pulled it through (rope goes down, through bottom anchor, back up to him), leaving the gear to clean later.

Wow, that's a lot of snow! The North side was snow-free when we did it last year 7/4. Sorry to hear about the rappells & losing a rope. We had similar trouble. Downclimbing the couloir is a better option if people are comfortable with it. Also, going left of the rock at the base of the couloir avoids those crevasses. But what fun is that?