obwan

You guys are right on - that place can play a lot of tricks on the mind in those conditions. The Demons of Doubt can also nag you just when you don't need them. One trip on the Muir hike, I was sitting out a white out and appeared to look frozen and doomed - and heard voices roaming around me. Suddenly, they came into view a few feet away and I scared the crap out of them up close, and frozen. They were lost and I was in luck with a map, gps and a compass - we laughed and descended together and made it back safely.

Thanks for your Squamish input bstach - for sure the Smoke Bluffs are full of good stuff for the beginning crack climber, eh. The thing with B&F is, it allows one to place pro and fool around without any great stress, your picks are excellent. It sounds like KyleJ wants to start on some easy stuff - and Squeemish is the place, mostly top rope-able and not intimidating.

I agree, don't jump on that hard stuff- if someone is just learning crack climbing, one needs to start out on at least two grades below what they sport climb. And as mentioned above, having a mentor to help out is worth a lot. It has been said before, being a good second partner on cracks is beneficial and would shorten the learning curve. I've also heard that one's experience level is measured in the "miles" spent on crack climbing, that's miles - not feet. So my advice is find some true and easy 5.6- 5.7 such as "burgers and fries" at Squamish.

Another tip, if you are just getting started in "crack" - don't invest a fortune in all the costly cams (unless you already have). Top roping is the best way to get started to see if you like it. Then if you want to build a low cost rack - you could do the "old school" scenario, and start out with some wired hexes and nuts. Then when you get hooked you'll be spending a ton of dinero on SLC's. Good luck, lots of good stuff as mentioned above.

What a bummer - that place can be nasty in the winter, especially with high winds and a blizzard. Very good input from Mtguide and DPS - if the climbers had the experience to hunker down early on in the storm in a snow cave, maybe they are ok. It's a real risk management issue, when to go and when not to go - Ed and Fred know it ain't going anywhere, sometimes best to come back another day. God bless and all those searching , be careful - you are all very hardcore folks. I think on monday the weather may ease up for some chopper runs - good luck!

Sounds like fun - be sure to send us a trip report!!

It will be interesting to hear the survivor's story, and what emergency gear he had along. Having a decade of winter hiking/snowshoeing and leading a group of sixteen people, I'm sure he was equipped as noted in the above posts. If not then he was very lucky and very hardcore. A snowcave is 2-3 times warmer than the reported night time temps of 14 degress. And even those emergency bivvy bags will save your ass.

Good idea to Timberline - sobo! Slate Peak/Lookout in the North Cascades on the PCT above Mazama is deemed the highest one can drive a car in WA - about 7400ft. But not worth the effort as it is about 5-6 hours drive. The recon trip mentioned by Water is worthwhile from the experience and exposure to The Mountain, and a chance to see the coming and goings of summit teams. The idea of packing water up the hill is a great idea in training, to save those knees for the real thing. Good Luck!

This is good info - it really depends how much time/travel you have. Camp Muir would put you in the best frame of mind and getting stoked to complete your adventure, just seeing The Mountain up close helps. It takes me back to a time when I went down to Crater Lake to run the 26.2 marathon at 6-7,000 ft. I thought, no problem - then being a sea-level slug I got my ass kicked. Then tried running up the Mt. Kuealua (not the spelling) in Hawaii - same issue. Then I studied it further and found out that I would have needed 7-10 days to properly adapt, and that 1-2 days before the event was a better way to go with the proper rest and hydration. I also think staying over night at altitude is very helpful. Good Luck!

Here goes another 5 page thread - great ideas!

To a lesser degree of commitment to time and travel, a couple of recon trips up to Camp Muir to 10,000ft with a heavy pack would be helpful.

Buckshot - you are on the right track; and ALL of the advice mentioned by tvashtarkatena ( I can't even pronounce that one), and others, is spot on. A tent does come in handy to get out of the sun, and refuge from the high winds that The Mountain can produce; (the wind seems to kick my butt the most, and sunscreen will save your climb/effort). I always recommend Mike Gauthier's book " Mount Rainier- A Climbing Guide" for the best information about what really goes on up there from a climbing ranger's viewpoint. I wish I had this book 20 years ago. Good Luck!

Amen! I have never seen a troll/thread with so much good advice! BTW - Cynthia from the Ho Chi Min Trail is hot!

I think after five pages, I have just come up with the answer of "why alpine starts". And it was your words - "choss pile": which is what The Mountain actually is -- a pile of loose rock and frozen snow. Therefore, if the rock fall later in the afternoon doesn't get you - then it will be the long slippery ride down (caused by clogged crampons). Stopping in a nearby glacier may not be as bad as the incredible acceleration one can achieve in a solo descent. sobo - I'm suprised that you don't know "Jack"!

Oops! Sorry - I got a little ahead of myself. Sobo - you came to mind when I saw a bumper sticker for you today. It said " I know Jack Shit".

Why? We've just hit 5 pages! Only 5 more and we can start talking about global warming... Oh, and Here goes - Don't plan on buying anymore crampons. http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2017190166_apwashrinkingglaciers.html

It's the cover photo on Lyle Knight's book - "Central BC Rock", and has a good topo.

In '90/91 with only 3 bolts, being a mixed route, plus long and very hard it was thought to be a 12a or b. I know a route is a route, but some feel having the trad aspect on the route raises it a notch. Sometimes I even feel that on some routes that have been done thousands of times and worn smooth, they have become a grade harder than the original route - such as "Illusion Dweller" or "Solid Gold" in J.T. This thinking would probably be good bait for a debate - but it probably has more to do with me getting a little long in the tooth. Orgasmatron is a fun route to challenge one's self, have fun - it was a good find on your part using the old trail.

World Wall II was briefly mentioned in Bryan Burdo's "pamphlet" (1992) on Exit 32, it's above the new parking area as you described near a mossy vista. Orgasmatron at that time was 3 bolts and rated a 5.12b - so it has gone from a sport/trad mix to all bolts and would support a 5.11dish. I definitely would want a 70 meter.

Pretty sad way to start out the New Year - check out www.seattlepi.com for more info. Sounds like he's wounded another 4 people seriously before heading up to Longmire. If the SWAT teams don't get him - let's hope he suffers a slow death of hypothermia. Condolences to those families involved.

Very F--ing awesome, a good find! - This so-called wet and cold La Nina hasn't hit yet; so Monty is right about stuff showing up that is usually covered with snow.

This is hard to resist a two-cents worth comment - maybe it's the name !?; You must trust the force young Luke, and also the good advice that others have expressed. Kudos to sobo,Dru,choada etc. for their effort. Obviously we don't know your actual experience and background, but the average completion rate is 50% on Rainier. I'm not that sure if it's only the Guided trips or the Independents. The point I have to make is regarding conditioning and weather, and routing finding capabilities which all have a greater bearing than slogging up a boot path. Climbing Rainier solo is no BFD if all the planets and stars are properly aligned and in your favor - I mean you could even just do it in a day, hike up to Muir (eat, take a nap) and follow the headlamps and cattle drive to the top. In regard to the two questions that you simply wanted to know how to respond - I feel that they are appropriate, and they just want your answer either from a book or your possible vast experience. Doing anything solo is a great experience but should not burden others - it's a wonder this thread is not in Spray. Good luck in your adventures.

Correct, both lines are used and in the twin scenario they are both clipped into the same pro. But I have used them as single for easy alpine. That Mammut Serenity 8.9 is a good way to go for a "single" line - as noted, just watch the rappel. There are also 30m ropes to really save weight - such as the Edeweiss Discover 8x30m Super Dry.

You may have opened a can of worms, but to keep it simple - there are two very nice ropes. The Mammut Genesis 8.5x60 Superdry Half Rope (on sale $50 off); and the one I use is the PMI Verglas 8.1x60 Dry Half/Twin (it's rated to use either as a twin or single).

I fell and hit my head at JT and had a vision of a virgin - but it wouldn't even qualify as a mini epic.