marc_leclerc
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first ascent [TR] Mixup Peak - The Misunderstanding (FA) 10/25/2011
marc_leclerc replied to kurthicks's topic in North Cascades
fuckkkk... that line looks hella tight nice work guys! -
haha, aid climbing and free climbing grades really have nothing to do with each other, an A5 pitch could be an entire ropelength of hooking on sketchy flakes that could really go free at a moderate grade (just with no reliable pro) while an A1 pitch could be all small wires and microcams in a splitter crack that is too thin for tips. An A0 pitch is probably just a bolt ladder with no holds that wont go free at all! Just look at Leo Houlding's route 'The Prophet' on El Cap. The crux pitch that went at 13d R was an 'A1' thin crack.... while some A4 pitch went at 5.11d just with no pro....
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Not yet waiting for cool dry weather.... the overhanging crack thing is actually way harder then the slab, just not runout....
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the first hour is all waiting, then halfway through the second hour you start cursing the creep who bunrned ya..... then ZAM!
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this is hilarious! good times but there would have been WAY more hotties at grad, you fucked up.....
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I know I am resurrecting an ancient thread here, but I would like to just say that part of this route is now a free climbing project, and all the moves have gone and I would like to ask people not to use hammers and pins if aiding this climb. The project goes from the start of Lower Pan Tease final pitch and climbs the face out right to the belay below the huge corner (pitch 4 of Edge of Pan) The Huge corner is a VERY good free climbing pitch and with modern gear is easily aidable without pins. Above this the climb joins Upper Pan Tease.... Repeated nailing in this crack would leave scars that would make the climb much easier as there would be fingerlocks rather than palming/stemming the whole way...
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[TR] Squamish - - Sixty-Nine 8/23/2010
marc_leclerc replied to marc_leclerc's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
I found this surfin the web today.... -
I thouroughly enjoyed this, thought I would share. [video:vimeo]21747558
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You americans and your politics..... I think if I lived a couple hundred kilometers to the south I would be a Liberal.... but all I really know about your government is you have RETARDED drug laws... I pity you all
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Picking on the ladies? Way to be a douchebag.... If you want to get into a dick measuring contest maybe choose an opponent who actually has a dick... Until then, fuck off....
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I'M SORRY haha... I thought you were talking about alpine rock for some reason yeah on alpine mixed is a very bad idea..... not my cup of tea.
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When I see people like these guys climbing, I prefer to leave.. I hate watching sketchy people climb, especially when they are oblivious to the fact that they are sketchy. I strongly agree... No offense but that is bullshit, and who says that alpine climbing is less than vertical? Yes on ledgy alpine terrain don't fall off. But there are so many places I have gunned it on hard terrain in the 'pine' and been fully aware that I could fall, and been fully comfortable with that fact. Yes you need to be extra careful falling more than say 15-20ft on a slab... but by knowing how to fall on slab you can take repeated wingers from 20-40ft with little or no consequence.... going more than 50ft on slab less than 75 degrees (I have never done this) could have lots of potential for injury though. I find that is where the falling climber, no matter how experienced with slab falls will lose control and start tumbling and getting hurt... that said climbers who don't know how to fall, and are not aware of where they are in the air/fall can get hurt from small little falls even on steep terrain. Especially people who don't pay attention to the rope and their heels, which I see all the time. Even just planning, and thinking about the fall potential, and using proper belay techniques can greatly reduce the potential for injury. on one famous runout gear route the FA'ist got hurt several times falling and swinging into the wall, but a friend of mine who repeated the line fell 27 times with no injuries whatsoever by simply re-locating the belay to provide a more dynamic catch....
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Awesome pics Billcoe! Cant wait to get down there again this spring! Bummer on the shoulder, heal up fast!
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Finish freeing 'The Temptation of St. Anthony' (pitches 1-6) 'Edge of Pan' Both on the Squamish Chief 'Cannais Wall' ground up free ascent,'The Intrepid Traverse', 'Gravity Bong' also on the Chief 'The Moth', Smoke Bluffs 'Primary Perception' SMoe Bluffs 'Lake of Fire' Murrin Park 'Sugar Daddy, Murrin Park 'Navigator Wall', Slesse 'All Along the Watchtower', Bugs 'FA on The Inscisor' Combatant, Waddington
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He trains for Everest by hiking with his Dog...
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What the fuck? I don't know why people would use this shit to get high.... or even the stuff we always hear about, like speed, and blo and E....... When there are way safer and more profound adventures to be had on either more natural drugs that dont fuck up your brain chemistry.... or just nothing at all. I have an amazing time going out in the mountains on a big adventure.... and I know the street drug scene.... Bath Salts... what the fuck??? thats all i have to say...
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I like weed.. I think it should be legalized.... but one issue is that you cant really measure 'how impaired' a stoned driver for instance, like you can with alchohol. I also like tea... but only the kind with Psilocybin.....
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fuuuuckkkkkkk..... how could someone be so fucking ignorant.
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found this today, year 2000?
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last time I was there PC Valentine was forming too, and white blotter was in, but we could not climb it because it was in full sun. ps... its actually my banana thats too big. Good guess though!
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The Plum, up by pemberton is in....
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Tony crushes the first pitch of U-Wall, 'The Shadow' looms above! This is the best 'pitch' of the year, P4 of one of my 'FFA' projects here in Squam. Between the first bolt and the horizontal crack there are two more bolts, and multiple cruxes... spicy!!