marc_leclerc

Wow.... thank God for spell check and copy/paste..... that took me way too long to write....

Seeing as it is still morning, and I assume the drinking took place last night. It really can't be that bad dude... When the drinking took place two or three days before, then you stop puking, then its truly an epic hangover.

Right now I think I just completed the first drunken walk from my Mom's old house to her new house. It was a fairly intense 'first drunken walk'. First I had to remember how to put my weird shaped headphones in and turn on my Ipod.... pink floyd was already on so I listened to 'Another Brick in the Wall' for the first 11 minuted of my drunken walk. Unfortunately I was not on acid, or the Pink Floyd would have been signifigantly more awesome.... I saw a fire hydrant and did a 360 degree spin off of it, but also noticed a cop cap driving by and became nervous he would become aware of my intoxication so I walked straight for a few feet, but as I was looking at my feet to ensure a straight walk I bumped into a stop sign at an alarming rate, it sucked. Then I had to cross a road, there were cars coming, that is what gave this route a 'drunken walking 5+ X' rating, it was pretty scary and took me about 5 attempts to complete my drunken highway crossing, VERY commiting... Suddenly I became aware of an unhappy feeling in my stomach and proceeded to vomit, must have been the altitude getting to me as I also felt rather light headed... Just then, the Pink Floyd ended so I put on some weird techno and started dancing down the sidewalk, lots of style points for sure... then came the crux... sorta. I am not sure why, but I just randomly fell onto my face, and i could not stand up again without falling... it must have been about 5.13c or harder to stand, as it took me over 10 attempts.... but eventually I made it home to the new place only to run straight into the redpoint crux.... the lock on the front door. After 10 minutes of searching through my phone I found a text from my Mom with the code to the electronic lock to the door, and another 5 minutes of button mashing found me in the front entrance on my face... SEND!

I have the next few days off, but all my partners seem to have taken off to the Rockies..... I am looking to climb ice around Pemberton as the cold seems to be sticking around up there. I live in Squamish, no car but can split gas. I am quite interested in Blue Moon on Rye, White Blotter, Medicine Man and The Plum, open to other options of course though. Let me know... 604-815-9059

Yo today I let some hot bitch blow me..... when she was done I said, 'Your Welcome'.

The ice hung around enough for me to go climb Nintendo 64 this morning. It took good screws, and the ice was mostly good. Part of the curtain at the crux halfway up had snapped in the last couple days. So there is was not much for feet other than squeezing the hanging dagger between your knees! Felt like WI5+ but it was also my first lead this season... so I might just be soft.

Both I bet....

These go on my bouldering rack....

These kids are so perverted! In a brilliant sort of way! [video:youtube]v=xbVifPkbYsk&feature=related

This is me on one of my first scrambling trips....

sucks you don't have a gf anymore and you're posting on the internet ugggggg..... and this is why I should not leave my cc.com logged in at my random drunk friends house.

HAHAHAHA I AM ON EXCTASY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What you say is 'sorta' true..... but not really. Just the presence of bolts on a route immediately lowers both the commitment and the quality of a 'scary' route. Say for instance if you get scared you can just bitch out and clip/grab/stand on a bolt. When you start into a runout and there is truly no gear for the next 40ft and you also can't downclimb the moves it is 'full commitment' and 'engagement' with the rock. This is really what we are looking for when doing 'scary' routes. Generally I don't want to be scared, I am looking for that full commitment an engagement with the rock, and to climb calmly and cooly through difficult and committing runouts is one of the most amazing sensations imaginable in rock climbing.... maybe only to be topped by 'clucking'

The FFA of Southern Belle was so bad-ass. Excellent style! Mad props and respect! I would love to one day be capable of trying to free that line in such good style! Now on the topic of run out routes and stuff.... I think there is a place for bold routes and safe routes, there is so much rock around does everything really need to be safe for everyone? NO! If you are not mentally up to the task of leading some 5.12 R/X don't bolt it, TR it, or go to one of the other 30 million safe 5.12 routes in this world! It isn't that hard to do, you say it is selfish to make a route scary because not everyone can do it? Well is it just as selfish to bolt a scary line and take it away from the climbers who travel to seek out scary lines. In fact it is more selfish because there are less scary routes IMO than safe ones, if you fuck up a scary lead I want to try I have to look so much harder to find another one....

Yeah, Jason did happen to shit his pants on camera.... but all of us have shit our pants at some point! hahaha! Hilarious....

Were the mushrooms magic?

I finally got some footage sent to me from a climb I sent back in August, and I thought it was kind of cool... 'Bruce Lee Vs. The Kiss Army' was the first climb I did that combined hard, tenous climbing with a scary runout close to the ground! The crux is probably holding the swing to get established on the arete, you can't really see it in the vid. But the mantle was by far the most tenous part and it is also the most runout! So much fun!!! I LOVE rock climbing! [video:vimeo]15958885 Here is an idea of the fall... the chalked up holds up on the arete are what I use to get my foot around the arete, so the mantle is just above that.... its a little ways!

My friend 'Mason' Kinloch Earle working on a new free route somewhere on the captain!

Yeah RuMR, He is going to have to come and work it with me! The heelhook beta is sooooo cool!It's amazing how it works!

If you havent seen it already, watch 'Power Of Jam' in the Spring 09 section. Includes the new 'inversion' beta for Cobra Crack and even features my friend Mason in a highly entertaining section about an overhanging offwidth called 'The Amazing ButtCrack' http://www.patagonia.com/us/tinshed/index.jsp

That was last night dude... maybe thats why I feel so old today?

So yesterday was my 18th birthday..... I feel so old now. How do I cope with this?

She should come to Squamish.... I hope hot sport climbing girls like underage trad climbing slab technicians 8D

What a crusher!