hafilax

Oh RC.com flogged the crap out of it alright. The real story was:

With all the ski techs at TGR I'm surprised nobody's tested the toe lever up DIN in a machine. Probably strongly depends on the sole length given that it's a torque. A large boot would feel less of an effect.

I think that was mostly aimed at RuMR who asked Dru a question directly and then proceeded to spray at him in his own beloved Kid's forum.

I find it strange that you are asking this question after getting married and after having been with the person for 6 years. If it hasn't been a problem yet how does marriage change that? If it does change things then why did you get married? The psychology of marriage is bizarre. I've heard of couples breaking up over marriage, divorcing then getting back together and living happily ever after unwed. I also know people that are much happier married than they were prior.

Sounds like a Santorum campaign.

They aged it by carbon dating.

That was my understanding of his statement.

Stick with your lap belt. I'll take the 3 point and an airbag.

Foam should crush lowering the impact force and spreading it out. This should apply in any direction there is foam. Once it's cracked you should get a new helmet. Suspension style helmets only seem set up to lower impact from one direction (straight on top). They both pass the same tests which must only be from the top. I'm going to get a foam style helmet at some point. My old Edelrid is too heavy and flips off my head too easily unless it's tight enough to give me a headache. Given that there have been 2 deaths in the Bluffs from side/rear impact head injuries during falls I think the foam helmets are the way to go for cragging or multipitch where you won't encounter repeated rock fall. I'm don't know what it takes to crack one from rock fall or how well they work once hit with a bit rock.

... and the action shot!

I was at a nice restaurant near Santa Fe that had a guacamole chef that made it fresh at your table. He just used a whisk. It was fantastic!

From Wikipedia: The word "avocado" comes from the Nahuatl word ahuakatl (testicle, a reference to the shape of the fruit). Historically avocados had a long-standing stigma as a sexual stimulant and were not purchased or consumed by any person wishing to preserve a chaste image. Avocados were known by the Aztecs as "the fertility fruit". Layered dip beats all. Refried beans + sour cream + salsa + cheese = delicious

In the McLeod clip he got spun around when his foot popped off the hold. Not much he could do there. I've seen horrible foot work at the gym with people getting their leg behind a draw let alone the rope. It makes me cringe. I'm not immune either. A little while ago I employed my occasionally bad habit of pulling up some slack mid move using my knee. This of course puts the rope behind the foot unless the route angles. I quickly clipped the anchor but noted to myself not to do that again in that situation. I think that really is the difference between the experienced and the ignorant. The experienced climber acknowledges that they have put themselves into a compromising position whereas for the ignorant it seems to have come from out of nowhere. When you realize you could get flipped you have the option of evaluating the risk and acting accordingly.

I took a quick look at some lockers and most have a cross load strength of around 7 to 9 kN. I've caught a few gym falls where the biner stayed cross loaded. Mostly when I'm not really paying attention. When it's critical I check it whenever I feed out rope.

Bachar et al. keep pushing 'traditional' as meaning ground up, onsight, pull the rope if you fall and includes aid like hooking to place a bolt. The magazines use it to mean that removable gear is involved but all tactics are fair game including headpointing and pre-placed/inspected gear. I think Sonnie is pretty honest in what he does. What more can you ask for?

I fell onto a purple Camalot on Octopus Garden at the Y section of the crack. Greased out and kicked the sling of the cam as I tried for the next foot jam. I fell a few feet then just as the rope was starting to weight I fell the trap door release and I dropped another 6'. My partner was chatting up the neighbors standing away from wall. My fall yanked him at the wall. I remember thinking it was one of the best cam placements I had ever found.

There's a long history of 'practicing falls' to get over the fear of falling and to work on the body mechanics to ensure safe falls when they happen unexpectedly. This practice is for both belayer and climber alike. Most people essentially build a multi piece anchor to fall onto. The point is to practice the fall not test the gear. I really need to get a new helmet. The old Edelrid I have is good for rock fall straight on and that's about it. I was wearing it on a steep sport route and it flipped off my head while heal hooking. One of the new light weight foam models with some rear and side impact protection is in my near future. This is the second death due to inverted falls and head injury in as many years in the Bluffs. Very sad.

Amazing! It was incredibly generous of his friends and the climbing community to donate money so that he could change his flight and keep working on it. This will make the Squamish Mountain Film Fest more interesting with both Dumby Dave and Sonnie presenting. They will undoubtedly compare their experiences on Rhapsody. I guess it's Didier's turn now. Who else might get on it?

My beef with the belay master is that you have to lock it to close the plastic. That means you either have to lock it to your harness or leave the plastic thing dangling where it often snags on things and pops off. Otherwise it works.

If you're popping out of the toe of the same binding a lot I would guess a problem with the binding or the mount. The heel really should come out first in most circumstances. I use Vertical ST's with brakes. They work OK. Not as well as those of alpine bindings. I've lost my ski on hard pack and it stopped. You have to push the brake pad down to twist into tour mode so if you're switching back and forth a lot it's a PITA. It's my only ski setup though so I use them in bounds quite a bit.

My favourite was the suplex in the elevator. Who knew WWF moves were useful in real life?!

The Delta wing design is totally unstable without a properly functioning fly-by-wire system. The lack of crashes shows the robustness the fly-by-wire system. The pilot indicates what it wants the plane to do which the computer interprets and puts into action. The crash shows what happens when the computer gets confused.

I'd love to have a room to shoot stuff in; shotguns at computers being at the top of the list.

Those things are totally unstable. The only reason they can fly is the computer compensation systems. Must have been a failure in the fly by wire. I saw a documentary that discussed that design. During tests they shut down more than one control mechanism and the fly by wire was able to compensate such that the pilots didn't have to do anything special to fly it.

He talks out it enough that it's in pretty good shape.