Le Piston

I fractured the same bone in my left foot about 7 years ago after a fall in the mountains...between that and the broken tailbone it was a long slow hike out. It took about a month before the pain went away. I had to work, so no time to stay off it and let it heal. I guess it depends on the degree of fracture, swelling, your healing, etc. I'd use the cold beer to ice it while elevating the foot, then drink it...multipurpose therapy. I hope you heal quickly and get to play with the new toys!

I also like the Cosley/Houston book, but got a lot out of John Long's "Climbing Anchors" for setting pro and anchors.

Everyone has listed great books. My own favorites would be: One Man's Mountains by Tom Patey The Burgess Book of Lies Extreme Alpinism Summit-photos by Vittorio Sella K2 The Savage Mountain Starlight and Storm Touching the Void Eiger Dreams The White Spider H.W. Tilman-The Seven Mountain Travels

I love this climb in the Fall. Thanks for the conditions update and TR. Nice to know someone was out enjoying the hills while I worked...DAMN!

I'm sorry for the loss of your friend. I consider myself a very careful climber, but it easily could be me on this thread considering some of the terrain, solos, and weather conditions I've been involved in. I've only lost one climbing buddy so far and still miss him greatly. I hope you're grief and that of TJ's family and other friends finds comfort and healing. He sounds like a great guy and it is a loss for this world and the climbing community.

Not the message I was sending. I use a lot of thrift store finds when I'm hiking and climbing. I have found Schoeller pants, bibs, boots, helmets, fleece vests, etc at Value Village and Goodwill that I still use. I WISH that Walmart was my number one stop for gear...I'm not rich and would rather spend money on trips and food. My climbing partner will tell you I am Mr. Bargain Gear Whore. I do the climbing...not my gear, but I depend on it with my life. By the way, my synthetic parka is a Moonstone clearance shelf find in way visible red. It won't be me scoffing or laughing at you, too much respect...Cheers!

I'm not really into the "spray" responses of some on this site, but most people here want advice from other experienced climbers. I respect the experience and advice of people who have used the gear in real situations and climates where your life depends on the quality of your gear and savvy in using it. I doubt anyone would hesitate buying from Walmart or any other store if their products were proven in quality as well as price. Nobody I climb with cares about fancy labels...just the durablility and quality of the gear they use. I'd take your advice more seriously if you would post some TR's of your outdoor adventures.

Thanks for sharing those...they were really cool. It makes me feel like a total wimp boy with my modern gear. At least the desire to enjoy the beauty of the mountains remains the same.

I haven't looked at the entire thread, so I appologize if someone else suggested it but there are lots of day hikes in and around Mt. Rainier National Park of varying lengths and levels of difficulty/elevation gain. I have taken my own kids on them trying to addict them to the mountains like their old dad. If you get a yearly pass it pays for itself after 2-3 visits. Look at Spray Park, Burroughs Mountain, Mt. Aix, Crystal Lakes, etc.

Another vote for Smartwool...although sock preferences sometimes take a lot of experimentation to find what combination works best for you. You also might look at how tight/loose your boots are. If you have areas of high friction, taping ahead of time can help. Some people forget to tighten their boots before going downhill and it can lead to jammed toes and heel blisters. Trekking poles can also help the knees on the way down (especially old abused ones like mine). Good luck and keep up the good work!

Damn! Looks like I went two weeks early. Nice pictures. I wish I wasn't on call this coming weekend...the larches look to be in primo condition. Was the Asgaard Pass trail very slippery? I went up late last fall and it was very sporty coming down, like a steep skating rink.

I also like Mount Rainier area for mellow BC skiing (Reflection Lakes). You might also consider the Mountain Loop Highway/Monte Cristo area when there is enough snow.

Nice moves! Looks like some interesting climbing...especially the arch. Thanks for the pictures and nice TR. I can only dream of routes like that...thanks for fix.

If you have a library nearby you can often find climbing books or place a hold on climbing books and guidebooks...it's free, if you have the patience. I've gotten to see a lot of books (even DVDs) through the King County Library system.

Here's a picture from Ingalls Lake area from Saturday. It appeared the Enchantments got a dusting from what little I could see.

Sweet! I was up there last weekend on a day trip up Little Annapurna and they were still getting there. I'm hoping Asgaard isn't too slippery this weekend...I'd like to get some pictures if the weather cooperates.

I second the Enchantments/Alpine Lakes Wilderness idea. You may not get a "technical" climb in, but combine new snow, golden larch trees, and blue alpine lakes and you can't ask for better.

I wondered if you guys would post here. I met you heading down Asgaard pass. Way to get it done! That is a great route, but can be "interesting" route finding. Like I said when we talked, I'm glad to know I'm not the only one who can turn a 5.8 route into 5.10 adventure. Keep up the good work!

I called the ranger station today and they reported 5 inches of snow up there (Enchantments) with potential for more. Scrambling sounds like a safer bet than Prusik...though as previously stated the weather can do the unexpected up there. I'd love to be up there with the larch trees turning gold and some new snow...as long as Asgaard Pass isn't too slippery. I was up there last November and it was unpleasantly icy.

I would either pick the Alps (if money were not a limiting factor) or either the Banff/Jasper area or North Cascades for North American travel...no language barrier, great scenery, and most everything reachable by car.

Looks like good times. I've been wondering about these climbs for a while. Thanks for sharing the TR and pics! Looked a bit nippy there.

Not only extra days for weather, but there are some other very cool peaks (Lyskamm, Obergabelhorn, Castor, Pollux, Breithorn, Monte Rosa, etc) if the Matterhorn isn't in shape. You'd hate going all that way and coming back emptyhanded. I hope it works out for you.

Unfortunately I have to work Friday. I went up Little Annapurna this past Saturday as a day hike. I'd love to do Prusik again (West Ridge?...I'm not in "rock climbing shape" enough for South Face) I do have Saturday and Sunday off though.

If your partner isn't able to get permission (boy do I know that issue!) PM me. I'm hoping to go back next summer. When I went in 2005 there were two seperate storms dumping snow on the Matterhorn and it was out of condition. I climbed a bunch of other peaks, but still want the 'Horn. Are you interested in any other climbs in the Zermatt area?

That is one awesome photo of the Matterhorn!