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mountainsloth

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Everything posted by mountainsloth

  1. yea, i would not mess with a bike on that trail... too many hikers, campers, and likely rangers. its a very pretty hike though... enjoy it!
  2. in response to the video: i would have fallen too if I had some stupid bra spraying shit at me every 5 seconds... how annoying. but i guess that motivates some people.
  3. amazing! everyone loves a drunken bear!
  4. the entire route is pretty clean, no need for scrubbing. it follows a fairly natural watercourse so it is usually the wettest route on the butt. Otto, I don't mind sharing her, maybe we can double-team her sometime?
  5. you are my hero Otto! I have been up that climb twice and I too love that climb. The last time I got sleeted off it! Those bolts sketched me out the first time I climbed it, but for some reason they did not stop me from making a second run on it. Maybe it was.... love? either way, thanks for the hard work.
  6. yikes! sounds like a shit show. you seemed to have managed it well though. way to make it back safe.
  7. Wow, snow is melting quick up there. I made an attempt at the NE Couloir over memorial day weekend in the same way (1day siege) and ended up turning around as well. Snow conditions were sketch and found steeper ice than I wanted to climb with a dull alpine axe and a trekking pole. Nice place to get shut down in anyway, right?
  8. http://www.sierratradingpost.com/d/4685_Mens-Climbing-Shoes.html There are a pair of plastics size 12.5 on sale
  9. i should have been more clear... the buttonheads don't look like they are going anywhere, but the hangers look god-awful. They are so thin and rusty-looking I am assuming any good sized fall would tear them in two. then again, as I stated earlier, I have little knowledge and experience messing with and replacing bolts. i will take you up on your offer though... when I have time and money.
  10. second ascent in ballard usually has someone there who knows what they are talking about, plus good deals on new boots and even better deals on used or aftermarket boots.
  11. yea, there are a number of routes at 3 o'clock that have old bolts. revolver on the north butt has a number of buttonheads that really make you wonder. if i had the money and know-how I would replace them. i gotta learn that one of these days.
  12. Trip: Fee Demo Wall - Middle Fork - Date: 6/13/2010 Trip Report: I heard about this wall a couple years ago and have been trying to get on it since, but road closures and better destinations have deterred me. Then there is the issue of finding someone who wants to climb some obscure slab crag that is probably dirty and probably wet due to its north facing nature. So I convinced my brother, who is working on converting himself from a gym rat. What I found was fantastic granite slab climbing that was surprisingly clean and a bit wet. Mt Garfield was looking nice, but the lower slabs are still wet on Infinite Bliss. and it was a beautiful day in the middle fork /0134.JPG[/img] We were only out for half a day and so only got two climbs in. The first was the 5.9 Million Dollar Footbridge. It was long, a bit wet, and pretty stout for 5.9. Looking down from the anchors Not happy with climbing around wet streaks, we searched the wall for the driest climb and jumped on the first pitch of Wonderful World of Wreckreation a 5.10d of pure friction goodness! I was pretty surprised and psyched to have onsighted this one as it was my hardest slab climb to date. looking down from the anchors My brother following taking a rest All around, I found the rock to be superb, the bolts still looking great, well placed, and nicely spaced out so you don't get the exit 38 lameness. Give this wall plenty of time to dry out though, it seeps for a while. Gear Notes: Two ropes! pitches can be close to 60M and raps close to 60M. 15 draws should do you good. Approach Notes: 15 minute stroll along the middle fork river trail, the wall is on your right, you can't miss it.
  13. someone should change the name of that peak to "perfect peak" love it!
  14. I have actually had a very similar experience. I was bouldering in the clear cut at Gold Bar, goofing around in my approach shoes, slipped and my foot wedged between two very sharp rocks slicing my ankle into a gusher. No arteries were severed, and I did not need to be carried out thankfully, but it certainly solidified my stance that all climbing can be dangerous. Luckily my friend had brought his first aid kit and was able to bandage me up pretty well.
  15. you could almost butt slide down the first pitch of silent running. it's maybe 50 degrees.
  16. the wall dries quickly with a little wind and sun. I have seen it dry off completely in 1 hour before.
  17. is yosemite the new everest? leave the bodies in pursuit of the summit? Douche Bags!
  18. you'll be fine. definitely soft for the grade. fun route. forget the #5
  19. solid! love that route! i too have found silent running to dry off in an hour or two. go back for the final pitches, the last 10b is not to be missed!
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