BirdDog

Nice! That one's on my list for this summer. How long did the approach take?

I've seen this cluster fuck method, er excuse me BUS method, used in the gym. Never knew what is was called, but it looks way more complicated than it needs to be.

Nice! That's a beautiful route. We were on it last summer, just us and one other party. Congrats on doing it in the winter.

Why do I climb? Simple, cause I love the feel of rock. The real question is why I (or we) would risk life and limb 'cause we love the feel of rock, or ice, or snow, or freezing our asses off just to get to the top of something. "it makes me feel alive", "it gives life meaning", blah, blah, blah; I don't believe there is a rational explanation. I first visited and climbed in Yosemite Valley over thirty years ago. I'd never been to Tuolomne until last year. Now I spend half my free time staring at pics and studying routes of the High Sierra's. This shit has gripped me. I got to go climb it. Why has it gripped me? Fuck if I know. I'm going to climb it this summer - that's a fact. Climbing is not the question. The question is how did it, and why did it, grab me - it's just rock.

I post on nwhikers as well. You were locked not because you spoke your mind, but because you are a whiny prick - same as you are here. I have never heard anyone at nwhikers talk down about cc.com. You obviously have some issues. Jon; Excellent response!

Cool, maybe they will less costly than DMM offsets.

If you were to climb at J-Tree, you would think plastic holds were smooth as a baby's butt.

grandpa; remember that in seeking a high camp/bivy site, you will hauling your overnight gear (read: heavier load) higher and longer than if you camp lower and make a longer day push for the summit.This may wear you out more than camping lower and carrying a day pack on the upper reaches of the mountain. Finding that balance is the trick.

OR makes an Alpine Bivy, it has a pole to provide some face space, weighs 9 oz. more than the Aurora Bivy. I wish I'd got the Alpine model. Although I have always used my Aurora with the top flap opened, the pole would be nice.

I have an OR Aurora bivy. About 23 oz. I have not experienced any condensation issues with it. I have not used in the rain, but I have used into single digit temps. Lots of room for a zero deg. bag and boots.

Sorry to hear this sad news. Do notify all other climbing shops in the West. The perps will sometimes pose as gear buyers, factory reps, etc; and try to sell the new gear to other shops. Hope they catch these bastards.

Good on you for getting that published! Well written.

I agree, Steve. If I were to be diagnosed with advanced termianl cancer, I'd quit my job and climb my ass off until the day I expired. Yea, and free solo!

I've always been at a loss for words to decribe our beautiful mountains. You have now provided me with those words. "thrutch-fuck". The most eloquent vulgarity ever written. A totally entertaining TR!

Beautiful!

Short answer - no plastics won't break in. However if there are certain spots where the liner rubs (fits too tight), these will mellow after time. Blister usually come from a spot where the boot does not fit snug, and allows your foot to move around. Try different sock combos, add padding or shims, different foot beds, etc... to get a snug fit.

Wat to make use of that weather window! Nice.

Okay, you've convinced me. So here it goes, "I assume responsibility for where rock climbing has gone in the last 25 years." Glad to get that off my chest. Seriously, thanks to everyone for the words of support on this website. I won't contribute often, but I'll check in every now and then. Everyone has their opinion, and after all these decades it doesn't really bother me when people want to view sport climbing as the downfall of the sport. Same as it ever was. But I have to admit, I just don't have the spirit for the argument that I once did. It's one thing sitting down and spending hours talking with climbers like Kauk and Bachar back in 1986 about the pros and cons of what would later be called sport climbing. Those guys are/were class acts who lived what they argued every single day at the crag. We had some great discussions about the pros and cons of the new branch of climbing. It's quite another thing 25 years later debating modern-day traditionalists whose main contribution to climbing is arguing their views on cascadeclimbers.com. It's funny, but if I ever had a chance to share a beer with guys like Pope and Raindawg, I'm guessing that we'd find more common ground than differences. Very well said Mr. Watts! Congrats on pushing the limits of the sport and developing routes that countless others have enjoyed. Happy Holidays!

Whereever you stay, don't leave anything of value in your vehicle. Vegas parking lots are a mecca for smash and grab.

Well, I didn't send any 5.13's this year; of course I have never sent a 5.13. However, my 14 yo son learned to belay well enough to partner with me on several moderate routes in Washington, Calf., & Utah. So from that aspect it was a really great year.

So sorry Scott, wish I could say something that means more. Wishing the best for the others.

It ain't all about "seeing them"....it's about leaving your mark, or not. It's about minimal impact. There are very few bolted climbs at Vantage that couldn't be top-roped to avoid the mess. Raindawg to address your previous post - you are correct, crampons, rock shoes etc... don't leave a trace as bolts do. But bolts leave just a trace, nothing compared trails, roads, carbon footprint of driving to a pristine crag etc... As far top-roping at Vantage, no . The vegetation on top is very fragile and hoards trampling it for top roping would leave far more of an impact than the trace left by bolts. Not to mention the safety issue of knocking down loose rocks.

In response to mattp's question of where are we at in the (bolt) discussion. Pope, you're correct - the younger climbers don't question bolting. Just like you don't question kernmantle ropes, crampons, nuts, etc...; because you grew up with them. Crampons were considered cheating at one time, by some. An old climber in England told me that when nuts were first used there some complained they were cheating, 'cause it took far less time and effort to place a nut than hammer a piton. Would you suggest we revert to pitons? Why draw your line at only what you know? We are still having the bolt discssion beacuse some people are reactionaries and can't accept change. Some people cannot accept that others are not exactly like they are. Yes, I can buy into the argument that bolts can be unsightly; however a foot path to a pristine crag leaves far more of a trace than a bolt that is barely visable to a climber on a route that sits a stones throw from a major road. I find tat in the alpine to be more unsightly than a few barely visable bolts. If you are truely concerned about "leave no trace", stop driving you air conditioned Subie to the crag. Two decades from now there will be those decrying yet unknown methods and advocating we go back to drilling bolts rather than gluing composite 'biners to the rock with solor powered tools. Oh BTW, are rock shoes considered "dubious" or should we all be climbing in old mountaineering boots. The only constant is change, get used to it.

That was very interesting. Thanks for translating and posting.

If you can get sponsored/paid to climb - more power to you. But does sponsorship work? Got an Eddie Bauer catalog in the mail recently. It's got pics of Dave Hahn and Veistures on Everest wearing the new EB stuff. Am I going to go and buy it? NO! Hahn and Veistures are great climbers but the only reason they're wearing that stuff is they were paid to wear it. Not much of a reason for me to buy it. I would be much more likely to buy something if I ran into some guy stumbling out of the Pickets after thrashing around for six days in the rain telling me his jacket kept him dry and didn't tear despite a ten hour midnight romp through an endless patch of Devil's Club. Like seeing a pic of Sharma hanging off a 5.14 roof is going to make me go buy the same slippers he has, so I can go do a 5.8 route at Vantage. Not! Maybe a pic of some sponsored athlete with an entire toppled column laying on his head, but uninjured due to the helmet; yea might buy one of those for Vantage. As far as an effective marketing tool, I view sponsorships the same way I view shotgun weddings - forced, contrived, and worthless.