BirdDog

Wat to make use of that weather window! Nice.

Okay, you've convinced me. So here it goes, "I assume responsibility for where rock climbing has gone in the last 25 years." Glad to get that off my chest. Seriously, thanks to everyone for the words of support on this website. I won't contribute often, but I'll check in every now and then. Everyone has their opinion, and after all these decades it doesn't really bother me when people want to view sport climbing as the downfall of the sport. Same as it ever was. But I have to admit, I just don't have the spirit for the argument that I once did. It's one thing sitting down and spending hours talking with climbers like Kauk and Bachar back in 1986 about the pros and cons of what would later be called sport climbing. Those guys are/were class acts who lived what they argued every single day at the crag. We had some great discussions about the pros and cons of the new branch of climbing. It's quite another thing 25 years later debating modern-day traditionalists whose main contribution to climbing is arguing their views on cascadeclimbers.com. It's funny, but if I ever had a chance to share a beer with guys like Pope and Raindawg, I'm guessing that we'd find more common ground than differences. Very well said Mr. Watts! Congrats on pushing the limits of the sport and developing routes that countless others have enjoyed. Happy Holidays!

Whereever you stay, don't leave anything of value in your vehicle. Vegas parking lots are a mecca for smash and grab.

Well, I didn't send any 5.13's this year; of course I have never sent a 5.13. However, my 14 yo son learned to belay well enough to partner with me on several moderate routes in Washington, Calf., & Utah. So from that aspect it was a really great year.

So sorry Scott, wish I could say something that means more. Wishing the best for the others.

It ain't all about "seeing them"....it's about leaving your mark, or not. It's about minimal impact. There are very few bolted climbs at Vantage that couldn't be top-roped to avoid the mess. Raindawg to address your previous post - you are correct, crampons, rock shoes etc... don't leave a trace as bolts do. But bolts leave just a trace, nothing compared trails, roads, carbon footprint of driving to a pristine crag etc... As far top-roping at Vantage, no . The vegetation on top is very fragile and hoards trampling it for top roping would leave far more of an impact than the trace left by bolts. Not to mention the safety issue of knocking down loose rocks.

In response to mattp's question of where are we at in the (bolt) discussion. Pope, you're correct - the younger climbers don't question bolting. Just like you don't question kernmantle ropes, crampons, nuts, etc...; because you grew up with them. Crampons were considered cheating at one time, by some. An old climber in England told me that when nuts were first used there some complained they were cheating, 'cause it took far less time and effort to place a nut than hammer a piton. Would you suggest we revert to pitons? Why draw your line at only what you know? We are still having the bolt discssion beacuse some people are reactionaries and can't accept change. Some people cannot accept that others are not exactly like they are. Yes, I can buy into the argument that bolts can be unsightly; however a foot path to a pristine crag leaves far more of a trace than a bolt that is barely visable to a climber on a route that sits a stones throw from a major road. I find tat in the alpine to be more unsightly than a few barely visable bolts. If you are truely concerned about "leave no trace", stop driving you air conditioned Subie to the crag. Two decades from now there will be those decrying yet unknown methods and advocating we go back to drilling bolts rather than gluing composite 'biners to the rock with solor powered tools. Oh BTW, are rock shoes considered "dubious" or should we all be climbing in old mountaineering boots. The only constant is change, get used to it.

That was very interesting. Thanks for translating and posting.

If you can get sponsored/paid to climb - more power to you. But does sponsorship work? Got an Eddie Bauer catalog in the mail recently. It's got pics of Dave Hahn and Veistures on Everest wearing the new EB stuff. Am I going to go and buy it? NO! Hahn and Veistures are great climbers but the only reason they're wearing that stuff is they were paid to wear it. Not much of a reason for me to buy it. I would be much more likely to buy something if I ran into some guy stumbling out of the Pickets after thrashing around for six days in the rain telling me his jacket kept him dry and didn't tear despite a ten hour midnight romp through an endless patch of Devil's Club. Like seeing a pic of Sharma hanging off a 5.14 roof is going to make me go buy the same slippers he has, so I can go do a 5.8 route at Vantage. Not! Maybe a pic of some sponsored athlete with an entire toppled column laying on his head, but uninjured due to the helmet; yea might buy one of those for Vantage. As far as an effective marketing tool, I view sponsorships the same way I view shotgun weddings - forced, contrived, and worthless.

The US Bureau of Wreck-the-Nation has announced it found yet another avenue to piss away tax dollars while saving the jobs of career bureaucrats.

Does having seat belts and an air bag in your car affect your driving decisions? I sure as hell hope not. I always take my cell with me, turned off and in the bottom of my pack. Just like my air bag, I hope I don't have to use either of them.

Cams can walk (move position) when wiggled. The force of the water may walk cams and cause them to come loose. Also rocks in rivers tend to move as well, when subjected to force from flood waters. Just a few things to keep in mind.

Fantastic, thanks for posting.

I'm more scared of gun toting macho men than I am of bears.

Trip: Frenchman's - Choss Master Date: 10/4/2009 Trip Report: Ever since taking both my boys, ages 9 & 14, to Vantage earlier this; my oldest has wanted to go back. So weekend before last we headed over Saturday afternoon. Did a few routes at The Feathers, where he cruised up the 5.8's. Sunday he says "Dad, I want to do some of those high ones at Sunshine Wall". So I took him up Choss Master, as a two pitch. It was all thumbs up and smiles. He did real well, no shaky knees or anything, then rapped off. Fun to able climb with your 14 yo. And yes, he belays very well. Did a great job catching Dad peeling off in Moab back in July. Gear Notes: Barbeque Approach Notes: Ford F-350

Interesting. I don't know if it's a sin, but is sure is bullshit. Who the hell buys gear on the basis that's it's used by some asshole who gets it free and flys around the world on some corporate $$$$'s all the while professing some shit like "first ascent of the East Face of Mt. Dogshit to draw attention to global warming."

Good thing these folks weren't around when the Colorado was eroding the Grand Canyon. They'd have had the whole southwest US tarped in Tyvek, or it's prehistoric equivilant.

Das Beerd: I assume you're coming down US 395 from Reno area. If so, take a right at Lee Vining and head up to Tioga Pass, it's just shy of 10K. Hike around, then drive back down and sleep low that night. Spend as much time up there as you can, then descend for the night. Tioga is only about 30-45 minutes out of Lee Vining.

To add to this - the autoblocking devices seem to lock up pretty easily, even if the rope is newer and more supple than an old rope. I put a second biner through the device to keep it from locking up as easily (here come the naysayers!!!) and I haven't had a problem even with a rope as stiff as a cable, and Jim's rope is nearly that! And no, the xtra biner hasn't kept the device from operating in this mode safely! LCK; Have you tested the 2 'biner method? Will it hold a falling second, without a brake hand from the leader? Not being a naysayer, just asking.

Every year I buy the $80 access pass; covers NPS entry fees, some BLM fees, and works as a NW FS pass. That work out to $6.66 a month; a fraction of what I spend gear/food/gas etc... The pass is a great deal when compared to $15-$25 entrance fees; which I feel are reasonable for the value received. The article ignored the fact that the more fees are raised, the less visits the parks will get, especially from families who may only visit one or two parks a year; thus negating any increase in revenue. Note: Flame suit on and fully zipped.

I have a Reverso 3 and have used it with my 10.3 Edelwiess. It's a little stiff with the 10.3. The key is having a little slack in the climbers end, and using a push/pull technique. Like penoyar said "rotator cuff is tired at the end of the day." Works real well with thinner ropes.

Great write up Steph, thanks. Glad all turned out well as it did. We would all be lucky to climb with a great team, such as yours.

Congrats on getting Buck! More snow up there than I would have expected. Very nice pics!!

"Me and Sue, still climbing together after all these years." That's awesome! Nice TR, I'm heading down there with my boys on Wed.

Yes you do - caught on film. Tazz sniffing the repel line - mmmmmm good!