BirdDog

A few years back my partner and I cleaned some old tat off a few routes while rapping down. This was old faded shit slung on horns and tied off to trees. We tested it for break strength along with some of our old but not sun faded webbing. The sun faded stuff broke near but not at the knot at about 800lbs. Old non-faded webbing broke about 4000lbs. at the knot. So, how long do you leave your QD's hanging in the sun? And yes, sport test pieces usually don't entail big whippers, but do you really want fall on UV degraded threads? Just for the record, I would not remove QD's off a route; on the other hand I wouldn't leave my gear on a route either.

Generally conditions in late May are good - good being well consolidated snow, and not much ice. However all that is weather dependent. So far this year Spring has been a bit on the cool side, but that could change. Late May can be a bit dicey if we have continued cool weather and then a big warm up - i.e.: wet slides especially on south facing slopes. Be prepared for cold winter like weather though; winter can come any day in the Cascades above 5000'. Can be hot too, so bring sun protection. Crevasses are often still hidden/covered in May, so be prepared with crevasses rescue techniques. All in all late May is usually a good time climb and should be close to guidebook descriptions. You won't need skis. Good luck!

IMHO "electrolyte gel" is an oxymoron. To get electrolytes into the right places you need water to get them there. Electrolyte gels will only help if you are hydrated. I have used GU2O (mixed with water) the past year or so as an electrolyte supplement - seems to work well for me on long bike rides or hikes/climbs. If I'm going hard and it's hot, I'll add some salt to the GU2O. Salt helps your cells retain water. Best thing you can do for multi day intense activity is totally hydrate for two days before you go, and then stay hydrated. Drink enough so that when you hit the trailhead you're pissing gin clear every 20 minutes. After that you can stay well hydrated with 1-2 quarts a day for three days; as long as you're not crossing the Mojave in July.

Bubbled headed bleach bonde comes on at five. Tells you about the plane crash with a gleem in her eye. Put the winner on the set we need dirty laundry. Don Henley

Try Second Acsent in Ballard.

dibbs, PM sent.

Can't afford the rope yet, just bought my 4 season tent today for $7. I'll use my next unemployment check for the rope and then I'll be ready for Thermogenisis.

Bakes; Have you sumitted the big R? If not you may want try it in a two day first to see how you handle altitude.

Oly beer can is OK. Anyone remember when it was a Heidleberg can? http://www.nwac.us/photos/current/1-7-09,%20Hyak%20ski%20area%20slide%20at%20Snoq%20Pass,%20lift%20towers%20destroyed,%20cabins%20damaged,%20WSDOT%20Don%20Whitehouse.jpg

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I cut the sleeve on mine, and then taped it back up. Mouth piece still freezes however. Try using a hottie hand warmer. Wrap hottie in a old wool sock and don't put it in the hydration sleeve (you don't want to melt the bladder), put it the pack. I used this in single digit temps last year in Montana, works well if you take a drink every 15 minutes or so.

I agree with the others, problem is the boots; there's no ankle support. Here is what I did to solve the problem. Buy 4 power straps. Get some fairly stiff high density foam, like the stuff they use for casts and knee braces. Cut the foam about a 14" tall and wrap around your ankle and boot. Tighten the power straps; one on your shin, one around the boot cuff. This really give some support to the ankles, and allows you to ski; sort of.

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Thank you to Scott for this well written but sad article.

For Sale: Chouinard/Black Diamond Randonee Skis with Silvretta 404 bindings, and fairly new skins. Mens size 10 Koflach boots with Vibram lug rocker soles. Ski Muir for $250. PM me if interested.

My advise is to get a camera that has large buttons and can be operated with gloves on. A lot of frostbitten fingers have occurred while snapping that summit shot. I've a small Nikon L5, nice shutter botton size, but you need a finger nail to hit the ON button. My 2 cents.

kweb; I suffered years of intermittant back pain and stiffness; sometimes so bad I was out of commision/work for 10 days. I tried therapy, excercice, drugs, electro-treatment, etc... no improvement. A times I would be so stiff/locked up I could not move in any direction. I had a L4-L5 micro-disectomy in 1991. I have been fine ever since. I keep my weight right, excercise, and mvoe/lift correctly. I also have slight spinal stenosis, and three other degenerative disks. X-rays make me look like a cripple; yet I have virtually no problems - and I'm 49 years old and work in the construction industry (although not with my tools everyday). Some of the other posts here make valid points. I've heard horror stories of people having 4 surgieries and still have problems. Before my surgery my Doc told me about a study @ UW where they found 80% of cadavors studied had back abnormalities, yet only 25% had a history of back problems/symtoms. I feel very fortunate to be healthy now, much of this I credit to back surgery (If you're backs screwed up, you can't even excercise). I defintely know how you are feeling. My advise is to really check out your Doc, ask for references etc... I would also reccommend going to the University of Washington Medical Center. They have some absolutely top Doc's there with a ton of research info behind them. I recently had sinus surgery there and was very happy with the results and level of care. Well that's my input. I wish you the very best; and hope you can write a succes story like this in a few years.

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All dressed up - top of St. Helen's June '75.

That works for me.

I would be nervous if my belayer did what you describe (gal in Vantage). How do you rig your tube device so tail end comes out the bottom. Can't quite picture this.

Ah...hello there keith. I've got some skis you might be interested in. Check your personal messages under "My Stuff" tab.

Check your PM's.

Book - "The ABC's of Avalanche Safety" by Ed LaChapelle & Sue Ferguson (Mountaineers Books). Short book, low price. Covers the basics +.

Had my ACL (patella method) in fall of '95 by a Doc @ Seattle Ortho & Fracture Clinic in Seattle. Doc retired now, but a great clinic in general. Took about a year to fully recover, re: mobility. Knee is about 95% as good as it ever was. Some pain on long downhills now, but I think that's more due to age - 49. Get in as great a shape as possible before surgery. Ask your Doc about wieghts etc... Get a road bike, and get out a ride on the flats. I was riding 6 weeks after surgery and still ride a couple thousand miles a year. Best of Luck - you will be just fine.