denalidave

Someone needs to do a stake out and catch these punks!

LOL. I won't tell you when that discussion should occur but it surprised me when it came. My own kid knew a hell of a lot more than me when I finally got around to it. My answer to my daughter would be: climbed first with no bolts and you can plan on the "protection" failing should you use it:-) Didn't see you out there DD. Did a lap up the corner with Jim and Amit, a new guy. I caught up w Jimmy at the top of the last pitch on the corner, must have just missed you.

Agreed 100%. Spending time with my two children is about as good as it gets. IMO. Just bring the rugrats to Beacon... We were there yesterday and the day before. I think were gonna hit the Boardwalk area today. I hope they don't ask why the route is called Rhythm Method.

NICE!

Great advice, why didn't I just think "I'm Peter Croft, I can do the whole range in a day". Turns out, I aint no Peter Croft.

Is that part of your personal reason for doing it bolt-less?

As much as that sucks, it seems more likely a good samaritan may have found them thinking they were left behind. Is there place they could have been turned in if they were found by someone? Who would steal crocs??? At least they didn't get Credance and yer rack.

I recently started leaving enough tail to re-follow the original figure 8. This seems to make it easier to untie when the knot has been loaded.

I just dislocated my shoulder by simply reading this thread.

8/22 - 3 week beacon-hiatus - i'm in danger of losing my BRCA membership - been cavorting w/ the fam in colorado and at the oregon coast, coincidentally during the bitter depth of that 100+ pdx heatwave when the beach temps were damn near in the 40s each night - managed a dragontail clamber in thare too the phuzzy made a public-transit trip to rendezvous w/ me in damned washoughal after a wicked reintroduction to work for me at the crack of dawn - climbed young warriors - a baker's half-dozen of wing enabled wave riding wacky-boys out beyond the island - elk herds grazing - good times! closed out the evening w/ little wing to the 1st pitch of right gull and then a sad attempt at tr'ing the off-width on wrong gull that got clubbed-on-the-head at just the right hour Are you aspiring dirtbags taking advantage of the free bread and such at the thrift store in Washougal? Right next to Les Schwab, on the way to Bacon Rock. They usually have a good selection of day old bagels, breads, salads and random produce for FREE. This Dirtbagger Tip-o-the Week has been brought to you by the BRDA (Bacon Rock Dirtbagger Associmanation).

Why would, could, should you worry when a fine, kind, generous christian doctor from abroad opens his beautiful home for next to nothing. You are so lucky! Some guys get all the breaks.

You so forntunate for get honestly docter hosue rentlalz. When hav you mazt excelnt moveing Inn partee?

Sweet!

Just throw the boner a bone and buy it ya cheap bastard.

Not sure but i think we are saying the same thing...but to reiterate what i just said: 1. there are some awesome local nw climbers and 2. being an "all around" 5.11 climber is impressive. And if your "Talk is cheap" comment was directed at me, well, fuck you too... Um, no, talk is cheap are those "I'm a 5.11 trade climber" types. Yes, if you can lead 5.11 in any style climbing, yer probably among rare company at most crags & peaks. Perhaps the valley excluded?

Plus, you can use the evil "back masking" technique that subliminally drives listeners to worship the devil and do more drugs. That is the only reason all those acid rock bands got off the ground in the 80's, Pat Robertson told me so and he has a direct phone line to the almighty.

He wears short-shorts...

I can think of no less than 10 solid "5.11 climbers" that are regulars here. Most of them probably don't tout it though. For every one of those, you have 20 more claiming "I can climb 5.11" but really can't. Seems about consistent with meeting partners who are from the gym or sport crags. Talk is cheap, especially on the interwebs. Better to sandbag your own abilities, rather than eat humble pie when that 5.9 kicks your 5.11 not-so-tradmaster-ass. (IMHO)

nice link to the fuddyduddy forum on the taco, but are you thinking of cc.comers that qualify as all around yosemite 5.11 crack climbing experts or as tiresome windbags who whine ceaselessly about how things ain't so good as they were back in the day of the stonedmasters? seems like there are more than "a couple" on this site who qualify for the latter. So, if your one of them, who is the "other" one that qualifies? Ivan? I'm a solid 5.6 trad climber, does that mean I'm half a 5.11 trad-master? A bit more than half, to be precise. [video:youtube]

Where are your proper tight-tight shorts and/or neon spandex, dude?

Cool, but I like how ol boy Ivan does it- only QDs. I'd like to see him lead the second pitch w only draws. No way, Jose...

Car Talk "Don't drive like my brudda."

A better option would be to just get rid of the wilderness... put a light rail and/or gahnjola and a few Starbucks at the lake.