denalidave

I'm still getting my ass kicked following the crux of Dod's, let alone leading it. On another Beacon note, I had a few brand spank me new Master Cams out for the first time last week. I placed one toward the top of Sufficiently Breathless but it walked a bit back and only 2 lobes were touching the rock. The other 2 lobes were not touching anything since it walked to a big hole in the back of the crack. After trying to replace it for a minute or so, I realized I was way pumped and just had to go for it. The belay ledge was only a few moves away and I did manage to get both big jugs at the belay ledge but it was to late. I pumped off and thought for sure the cam would not hold but it did. The 2 outside lobes had gotten twisted/spun around backwards so it held passively like a nut. Took me a few minute to wrestle it out of there but once I bent it back into shape it was good as new, well almost, anyway. Flight tested and approved now. I keep wondering how it would have played out if it would have been one of my ancient Aliens... I'm pretty sure the fall would have been clean, although much longer, had the piece failed (like it should have), but I'm really glad I did not have to find out.

We ended up soloing the whole thing. What a great route. We kept calling it the mini Matterhorn. The 50 classics route we dubbed the stairway to heaven. I'd love to go back and do it again. I screwed us on the decent though and rapped on to a dead end ridge and we ended up spending most of the night getting down , good times.

Have you already tested for radon to see if it is even necessary to vent the home?

If you don't already have one, open an REI Visa and get a $30 REI gift card. I finally used my gift card for a new Reverso 3 and snagged size 1, 2 & 3 Master Cams whilst I was there.

Thread drift, we gonna see a cock fight? Is cc.com big enough for two chickens? Rooster vs Roos2er, wow what a line-up. Or maybe they will gang up on some unsuspecting trolls?

Castleton Tower in Moab, UT; Sir Donald, Selkirks, BC; Maybe doing Mt. Stuart Labor Day weekend if I can get the hall pass. Not sure if I have done any others since I have not read the whole book. Sure wish I could find a cheap copy.

Is it just me, or does anyone else smell a new Troll on this site?

I may be wrong but I think political calls do not have to abide by the do not call list. Still, I just hang up when I hear the political recording.

I pay a whopping $4.95/month to have my credit monitored and it seems to be worth it. I have been planning on locking my credit since I don't really need to take any loans out but i'm not sure if locked credit would have helped Rob in this case. As part of the credit monitoring, I can also pull my own credit whenever I want at not extra charge.

I resemble that remark, but it's not me... Damn, thought it might be you leading it.

You forgot Alta, Solitude & Snow Basin with the greatest snow on earth. Course ya aint bringin no snow board to the alters at Alta.

No takers on this one, come on, the route should be real easy...

Sounds like fun JH. I'm guessing the folks I heard yelling made it down ok. Just the usual on/off belay calls...

OK, this one should be real easy to name the route, but can anyone name the climbers doing it? I took these pics from down at the beach in Sep of 2006 and have always wondered who it was.

Sweet, I thought someone might be having a late finish epic in the dark when I heard them yelling. Wish I could have done YW last night w/you JH. Maybe next full moon if it is still warm enough?

That would be me, nice to meet you Mark.

The butt hole pitch is a bit heady down lower but certainly not in the suck category, I love that pitch...

Guess everyone should give Bill extra good belay or ya might lose an eye or gut... I've only met Bill briefly and he sure seems nice enough from those encounters and his online persona. Everyone who has talked about him has only had kind words and mucho respecto for the guy. That said, everyone has a boiling point and it's the nicest guys that are the most fierce once pushed over the edge.(IMO) The bear spray sounds good but I'm sure the po-po would be arresting the sprayer for assault, and possible homicide if one of the dumbasses do fall off. I guess this is the reason I have chosen not to visit Rocky Butte yet as I have heard it is plagued by issues like this, or needles, or piles of shit on top, or people having sex, or ... To bad though, cause I hear it has some good routes. Besides, why would I drive an hour to climb in the city when I live a couple minutes from Beacon?

Oh, I figured the other arrows on the SE Corner ramp pitch and were from you since you had a beginner w/you. Whoever did it sure mapped it out well. Good thing or I might a gotten lost up there...

Ivan, was that your chalk route "guide" arrows on Uprising? JH aint gonna be to happy bout dat... Let the ranting begin.

I like that placement too but I usually also put a small alien up in the left flakes. Good psychological pro anyway. I feel pretty solid in the stance before you go through the buthole move once my feet are high up in the flakes so no bolt is needed (IMO). Anyone who climbs w/me knows I aint one to run it out either...

'Stacios are nice, but a lot of work and you need to shell them. I always liked Cashews and a few chocloate chips tossed in. Now I've learned that isn't the best thing to eat. Just get the expedition sized bag at Costco for $10... already shelled Stacios. I bring em cragging, alpine, spray'n, whatever, all the time. MMMM better throw a handful on some vanilla ice cream right now.

That was me, I did not recognize you though or I would have introduced myself. I'd seen you at ozone earlier this year and recognized you from some cc.com pics. You must have grown a beard since then?

That must have been you I met up with on the summit ridge after the ramp pitch? Correction. It was Sat we were climbing. Right, Saturday it was. I met up with some kid just starting the ramp pitch and then passed you at the belay, if that was indeed you...

That must have been you I met up with on the summit ridge after the ramp pitch?