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Everything posted by denalidave
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Sweet. Looks like plenty of good climbing to be had too.
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Yeah, but feathers are aid.
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I'm switching to a bucket of pine tar, I hear it works great.
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Shouldn't there be a PMS Woman or sumpin? Super Shopper maybe?
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I'd bet we'd never made it there without duct tape!
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I guess the eagles don't have federal protection in the country this was filmed in? Either that, or those goats have no respect of the laws that protect the majestic eagles so they deserve to be eaten. Poor witto goateez.
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Are we talking about snorting the stuff? That really helps keep things dry.
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Just enough should be fine when doing the west butt since you will likely be able to barter for anything you may end up short on. If you happen to be doing the north side, too much would be much better than not enough. I'm guessing you are doing the west but? Yeah, I did carry to much stuff and ended up with a double hernia slogging 250 lbs (each) in from Wonder Lake, in one push. However, I would not trim very much out if I were to do it again. Some people go light and fast, I like heavy and comfortable. As I get older this light concept seems pretty good though.
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No shit. Don't underestimate how thirsty climbing a big mountain like Denali or Begoya can make you. Bring plenty of dehydrated beer too.
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Better too much than not enough, IMO.
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Dana Design Astro Plane, it can fit everything and the kitchen sink.
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And a small sponge to soak up what the dust pan does not get.
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Most people fly into the west but so unlikely bears will be that high. Guns are also illegal in the national park if you are doing the north side. I'm surprised we did not see any bears but we had a very early start in April. We didn't see any on our slog out in late May either though. I would be sure to bring a -40 down sleeping bag for sure. Mine was only -20 and I froze my ass off a few nights. Even with poly pro bag liner, bivy sack and all my down/fleece clothing on. Have fun and be safe.
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Unsolicited Advice - Nalgene Bottle on Harness
denalidave replied to SlickWilly's topic in Climber's Board
Stainless steel is the new nalgene. -
I think using DNA use to catch the bad guys is a good idea and surely more reliable than fingerprints alone. I just don't like the big bro society we are heading toward and this thread topic seems like one more chipping away toward an Orwelian society where big bro has ultimate control over the masses.
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This is just more of the same big brother trend that our society is heading toward. Before you know it, money/credit will be handled with the imbedded microchip and big bro will have ultimate control over all of us. Paranoid? Sure, but everything still seems to be heading in that direction and always in the name of safety for the larger society, rather than the truth of condensing power and control over us.
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Better yet, when will Bug change his to one of Couloir's prior avitars?
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Also keep in mind that ratings are very subjective and inconsistent throughout climbing areas, disciplines and so on. Some areas grades will be much harder that others. I've seen plenty of Gym climbers talking real big numbers of what they can climb, only to see them get spanked by 5.8 or 5.9 trad lines. Grades can also be affected greatly by the type of climber doing the route. Some routes favor smaller hands, or taller people, etc. What could be a 5.11 move for a short person, might go 5.6 if you have a longer reach. When in doubt, stay below what you consider your average all around grade ability till you learn how the grades are for the area/type of climb you are doing. For me, I know I can usually lead something in the 5.10 range at say Ozone, but if I'm at Beacon Rock, I know I'd better stick to leading mostly 5.9's cause the grades are different, though pretty consistent for each area, IMO. It also seems that alpine rating tend to be stiffer, in general, than other types of climbing.
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I think Nate is right on going through the lift areas. Seems to me, you have to pay for a lift ticket but the resort is on public forest lands so anyone can be there. I've never researched it but heard that from someone else. I was never hassled the few times I skinned up but it was also a really slow time of year and I don't even remember running into a ski patrol or employees.
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Man Survives 1,500-Ft. Drop Down Mt. St. Helens
denalidave replied to JosephH's topic in Climber's Board
Mine is detachable so I use it as a avy probe. -
cocaine connection icicle buttress bolts
denalidave replied to markwebster's topic in Climber's Board
Who is the "climbing community at large"? Does that include the masses of minions who frolic in the gym but rarely venture outdoors? Does it include any of the untold thousands of "climbers" who bought some shoes, ropes and quickdraws to grab some quick "adventure" at grid-bolted venues like Exit 38 and its ilk? I say: add another bolt = wreck it some more. Like I said, good luck getting a consensus... even on what the definition of what the "climbing community at large" is. -
cocaine connection icicle buttress bolts
denalidave replied to markwebster's topic in Climber's Board
IMHO, Yes the FA has the final say so on a route. BUT, if we consider a route a work of art you could look at it a bit differently. How many artist go back and touch up a painting or sculpture after it has been considered completed and put on display for public use? Sure they could but it is probably considered bad form to do so. Let's add a bit more mustache to Mona Lisa...think of the outrage that would have caused. Routes should be left alone unless the climbing community at large agrees it is excessively unsafe, good luck getting an agreed consensus on that. Just my .02 worth, but I guess I'm a day late and about .98 short... -
I have DSL out here in the gorge with no cable available and am really happy with it. The one complaint I here from city folk with cable is it bogs down in peak time because subscribers share the bandwidth. Since DSL is a dedicated line you don't run into that issue, at least that is my understanding of it.
