denalidave

Awesome!

Where are you/books located?

Emphasis on sickness.

Don't forget the sweet new raingear...

Sounds like a good thread for Kevbone to spray his infinite wisdom on the topic...

Great idea!

Same holds true for racking up... It's always the one piece I leave behind that I really wished I'd put on the rack...

dave, didn't you say you fell down low? you mustn't been too dinged up though, eh? your pro held? (was it right above the pin?) the pro sure is thin there though for the first 1/4 of the climb, and the potential for getting hurt is palpable - which is no doubt what makes it fun! i agree the last part is mid-tenish, but it's a pretty clean fall on very solid gear, so nothing out of the ordinary there Ivan, the first time I tried to lead it a week or so ago I came off on the sketchy traverse, just before you step up into the dihedral with the small pine tree in it. I had a shitty alien way left & a bit below me that, much to my surprise, held the lengthy pendulum fall. When I led it yesterday, I never felt much of the pro was bomber, except in the fist section. It took me about an hour or more to get up the pitch and after all that effort, I then grabbed your fixed rope on the last move since I had run out of slings and biners and could not clip the last nut I'd gotten in. I was pretty gripped the whole pitch but it was fun.

Right of YW above Rhythm Method.

I don't really have a definition since I have not thought about it much, nor do I care to. I was not here climbing when all the politics hit the fan at Beacon. Personally, I don't want to see Beacon turn into a sport crag. That said, I have no problem with bolts/bolted sport routes either. I think it is nice to save a few areas for trad climbing and Beacon seems to be one of the areas that most climbers I have talked to would like to keep Beacon as primarily a trad area. My 2 cents... Also, from what I understand, bolts are not banned outright, you just have to ask to put them in. So in theory, a new bolted line could be approved.

Nice to hang with you as well.....and see you on Wed at the event.... Can you define "granfathered in"? Sure... Wiki link A grandfather clause is a term used in U.S. English for an exception that allows an old rule to continue to apply to some existing situations, when a new rule will apply to all future situations. It is often used as a verb: to grandfather means to grant such an exemption. For example, a "grandfathered power plant" might be exempt from newer and tougher pollution laws. Often, such a provision is used as a compromise, to effect new rules without upsetting a well-established logistical or political situation. This extends the idea of a rule not being retroactively applied. A portion of a statute that provides that the law is not applicable in certain circumstances due to preexisting facts.

Hope your feeling better soon Joseph.

Gross stupidity? I don't know. I like Gordon, good guy. What Ivan said above rings true to me as well. It's special spot, with a long tradition of not having that kind of thing there. I would like to know why they gave him tickets if anyone knows for sure. You are right Bill.....I am out of the game and will not be putting any routes up anytime soon....but, there are bolts ALL over Beacon Rock.....to make the argument that my bolts that I would put in are not welcome when there Beacon is covered in them is a week argument. I think the bolts that are there are "grandfathered in", so to speak. Plenty of great climbs at Beacon without getting worked about the desire to put in more bolts. Like Bill said, if you really have to get your bolt fix, go find one of the many undeveloped crags and bolt away. Seems like you are just trolling here, especially since you have already admitted you have no plans or time to do any route developing. BTW, nice to meet you on Saturday. Good luck with the new baby.

Yeah, I'd say it was 10, like a few other sandbags at Beacon...

Gonna bring the lizard so I can save a bunch of money on my climbing insurance?

Hard, but at least the pro is sketchy...

I thought it was now poo ledge and you are supposed to anchor off on the "log".

Nate sent the second pitch of TF today. Looks pretty sweet, but I wouldn't know as I got shut down by the roof. Suppose I could have aided fested it but my hall pass had already expired anywho. Had my hands full on the sketchy 5.9 1st pitch and managed to run out of slings just below the anchors. Still anxious to get on that second pitch now that it's all cleaned up.

"What we have hear is a failure co co-muun-i-cate"...

Blah, blah, blah, anyone want to go climb there instead of hashing the same old shite?

I can get out early but have to leave again by 1 so as not to be late for the Chuck E Cheese party at 2 in da couve. Let me know. Anyone up for a few pitches this evening? 4:30 ish?

Pretty cool read, though I just skimmed it and mostly looked at the vintage hardware. Any of you guys ever get some of those wired bliss cams that were supposedly made in some guys garage circa early 90's? I have a set and don't use em anymore. They seemed very similar to metolious, served me well back in the day.

Heard that! Although I rarely rack up with my lowe balls anymore, I flight tested them quite a few times when they first came out. Even though I never had one fail on a fall, I never gained much faith in them. Still better than nothing and often just enough to get you through the thin sections...

Must be a pic of Bill C's rack closet, eh?